For me… not a structure….
Can someone talk about the basics of LEED certification? LEED AP? LEED NC? 2.2? 3.0? Does AP have versions too – I read they have levels on their web site? Which is easiest to get – or a logical first step? I’m thinking professional development and resume building… Are there other certifications? I know there are other certifications for houses – NAHB-Green? NC HBH (a North Carolina program)? What about for people? I work in new construction; single family and multi family low-rise.
Replies
How much does it cost to be "certified"? Is LEED like the building codes, a profit center for a publishing company?
If the codes were really about safety they would be available free. Same thing for the rest of these jokers who can't work in the field any more and are trying to suck off hard working tradespeople.
You can learn everything you need to know about green building from a book, but they want your $1000 for the seminar and they give you a checklist at the end and a badge that says "GREEN POLICE"!
A local city agrees with me and instead of a LEED program they made a self-explanatory checklist that you can fill out yourself. You can add or delete items until you get the desired number of points. You decide which measures to implement. No rater needed.
Old Bas***d
Klhoush,
I agree with you about LEED...
I joined the local USGBC for about a year and found it to be a waste of time.
Have you seen this Lstiburek article.."It's the Energy Stupid!"
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-007-prioritizing-green2014it-s-the-energy-stupid
I know there may be some involved with LEED that are doing good things...but overall I think it is a croc.
John et al:
An update:
First, to remind you all what my original Q was:
>> Can someone talk about the basics of LEED certification? LEED AP? LEED NC? 2.2? 3.0? Does AP have versions too - I read they have levels on their web site? Which is easiest to get - or a logical first step? I'm thinking professional development and resume building... Are there other certifications? I know there are other certifications for houses - NAHB-Green? NC HBH (a North Carolina program)? What about for people? I work in new construction; single family and multi family low-rise. <<
After going to a handful of seminars and classes on the subject here is where I ended up as a near term goal:
I am in the process of getting a CGP (certified Green Professional) designation from the NAHB. Oh - and... Edit to add: I joined a group called Green Home Builders of the Triangle that is affiliated 2 of the local HBAs.
When I first read some of the responses about LEED and USGBC I thought they were a little extreme. I think maybe someone way in the beginning of this thread referred to LEED as a "make work program for architects" - or similar. There were some other pretty negative comments too.
Then after going to a few classes, trying to sift through the various programs available, I felt like they were trying to "greenwash" us (or is it greenBS) on the economic aspects of green building especially with respect to LEED-H (the most expensive program). For example, during one class it was stated that one could a $1500 tax credit for excess materials donated to a non-profit like HfH to help offset the cost of green building and the associated fees. Well guess what!!! If I have $1500 in excess material left over from a house I'm not doing my job!! And, 95% of extra materials get returned to the building supply for full credit. Other statements were made to minimize the actual cost of green building and associated USGBC (etc) fees. Then I have to hire an architect to help me go through a checklist? Then I have to pay extra to hire a firm who can sort and weigh construction debris so as to prove that it was minimized? My trash guys are trash guys, not the sharpest knives in the drawer. They customarily mix my pick-ups with other's builder's stuff. How is that gonna work? OK - so I'll I'll keep any vinyl scrap and cardboard separated. BFD. I could go on and on.
Unfortunately I build in the real world and have real budgets to build and meet. I want the money spent on my projects to go to the nuts and bolts of the project itself without a significant amount of $$ overhead going to filling out a lot of excess paperwork and paying an architect to come by and tell me how they think a lot should be graded and how my trashpile looks....
Edited 4/24/2009 7:37 pm ET by Matt
Many aspects of LEED make sense, however, many do not.
Knowing the difference, priceless.
Have you sorted out all of the answers to your questions? You seem to have the AP issues under control.
My opinion is that a large portion of the current "green surge" is bunk. Self-serving to a large extent. Pervasive. Rife with scams and misdirections. Containing some diamonds in the rough.
Understand the bulk of the LEED process has been geared towards new "non-residential low-rise" construction (everything but houses). There are still glitches.
However, the overwhelming presence and appearant widespread acceptance of "green" is a sign that the future for any building professional (i.e architects, designers, engineers, contractors, builders, developers, et al) will include some level or type of certification. It will be like a pair of pants: recognizable only by its absence. As a business person, it is an accredidation that may or may not make you and/or your company/service more appealing/marketable.
Fluff that helps you sell you is not fluff, is it?
Exactly - to a builder the whole green thing is just another step forward tward job security. That it happens to be the right thing to do makes it feel good too... :-)
"Many aspects of LEED make sense, however, many do not.
Knowing the difference, priceless.
Have you sorted out all of the answers to your questions? You seem to have the AP issues under control.
My opinion is that a large portion of the current "green surge" is bunk. Self-serving to a large extent. Pervasive. Rife with scams and misdirections. Containing some diamonds in the rough.
Understand the bulk of the LEED process has been geared towards new "non-residential low-rise" construction (everything but houses). There are still glitches.
However, the overwhelming presence and appearant widespread acceptance of "green" is a sign that the future for any building professional (i.e architects, designers, engineers, contractors, builders, developers, et al) will include some level or type of certification. It will be like a pair of pants: recognizable only by its absence. As a business person, it is an accredidation that may or may not make you and/or your company/service more appealing/marketable.
Fluff that helps you sell you is not fluff, is it?"
Now THAT'S well said.
Runnerguy
Edited 5/3/2009 7:16 pm ET by runnerguy
LIke I said - resume material...
Didn't say I necessarily thought it was a great thing....
Know anything about this? I'm gonna repeat my initial Q since thus far the thread is on a tangent....
>> Can someone talk about the basics of LEED certification (for building professionals)? LEED AP? LEED NC? 2.2? 3.0? Does AP have versions too - I read they have levels on their web site? Which is easiest to get - or a logical first step? I'm thinking professional development and resume building... Are there other certifications? I know there are other certifications for houses - NAHB-Green? NC HBH (a North Carolina program)? What about for people? I work in new construction; single family and multi family low-rise.<<
Know anything about green or energy wise building practice certifications for building professionals?
Know anything about green or energy wise building practice certifications for building professionals?
Matt, I don't know if they give you a certificate..but
EEBA courses are very good....They travel to different cities
Joe Lstiburek and John Straube also have a 2 day class that travels the country.
The will give you a certificate
My local HBA sponsors many courses and gives out initials and certificates
"Joe Lstiburek and John Straube also have a 2 day class that travels the country."Will you learn anything that you couldn't by spending two days reading and digesting the content that Lstiburek has on the BS.com website?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Will you learn anything that you couldn't by spending two days reading and digesting the content that Lstiburek has on the BS.com website?
Jon,
I have studied the BSC website and I have the Builder's "climate" guide
Maybe I am just slow.
Yes..It did help me.
It is structured yet informal..you can ask questions at any time...
Lots of questions are asked.
Joe and John take turns with slide show lectures.
One of the most interesting parts is when Joe talks about his failures.
and it is very entertaining ..very funny
At the end of the first day they have a pizza and beer party and they will discuss projects that the participants are working on.
I am so slow..I have taken the intro course twice.
The second time was not a carbon copy of the first...Building Science is dynamic and part of the presentation is "off the cuff"
I do want to attend the advanced course in December...maybe this year.
Edit to add a video link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_IrtDR3p0c&feature=channel_page
Edited 1/16/2009 9:00 pm by homedesign
LEED Certifications are given to buildings.
People are accredited.
LEED AP means LEED Accredited Professional. As in you are a person who has the experience and training to pass the USGBC Test to become a LEED AP.
LEED-NC refers to the type of construction. NC is for New Construction, as in Commercial Buildings.
LEED-H refers to Homes. There are others such as Core & Shell, Tenant Finish, etc. The USGBC website can break that down for ya.
The numbers refer to the version in use. I took a class on the 2.2 version a couple of years ago at Colorado State Univ. Got me a certificate, but you really need the AP Status for good resume fodder. Here, LEED is a big deal with the commercial builders. Many municipalities here are on the LEED Bandwagon, and are requiring the GCs to have one LEED AP on the project.
For home building, our state wide program (Built Green) is the preferred standard by owners and architects. It has been around longer than LEED, as the LEED-H designation is fairly new in comparison. LEED was originally designed as a metric for commercial construction energy efficiency, occupant comfort, and environmental impact.
LEED is essentially a rating system, and it is complicated, tracking it is expensive, and time consuming. Their goal is a good one, as we have all been in buildings that barely meet code, versus properly designed energy efficient, truly comfortable buildings.. .
I gotta get to work.
My bank is starting on a LEED kick, partially for good press, and partially because more cities are requiring it for commercial construction. My preferred architect is working on getting accredited, and I am also starting. The local chapter of the USGreen Building Council sponsors seminars, and I'm going to one early next month. Personally, I'm not looking forward to it, I thinks it all eyewash, but it's the current fad and it will look good on the resume ... at least until everyone has it.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Fast,
Your Architect would be better off to spend his time and money with Joe Lstiburek and John Straube. You would learn why it is not a good idea to use steel studs unless you are using "outboard" insulation. You would learn what a thermal bridge is.
Attached is a photo that I took of a Platinum rated LEED-H home under construction.. designed by a LEED AP
Edited 1/16/2009 11:30 am by homedesign
Who is making money from LEED? Is it some kind of Ponzi scheme?
"Attached is a photo that I took of a Platinum rated LEED-H home under construction.. designed by a LEED AP"I'm assuming you are referring to the vestigial double plates and blocking?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
"Attached is a photo that I took of a Platinum rated LEED-H home under construction.. designed by a LEED AP"
I'm assuming you are referring to the vestigial double plates and blocking?
I do not know vestigial? new word to me..please define
The thermal bridge that I am talking about is the tubular steel...
It is more than a thermal Bridge..more like a superhighway...not only is it an energy hog..it will very likely cause moisture problems behind the drywall.
It actually gets cold in Dallas...
Edited 1/16/2009 8:18 pm by homedesign
Edited 1/16/2009 8:18 pm by homedesign
Vestigial- used to have a purpose (double top plates) before their original function was replaced by something else (tubular steel header negating the function of the double top plate and blocking between the studs).I see what you're saying about the steel piece being a very efficient transfer of heat through the walls, but what would you recommend in it's place?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
I see what you're saying about the steel piece being a very efficient transfer of heat through the walls, but what would you recommend in it's place?
One possible solution would be to add rigid insulation outside the structure(which they did not do in this case.)
Another solution would be to change the design (the appearance)and frame with wood.
Now that you mention the double top plate...even more thermal bridging..but it is the steel that is extremely conductive.
There was another LEED Gold house in the same neighborhood with almost the entire southern wall (long side of the house)in glass with aluminum frame with no thermal break..and this is a hot/mixed humid climate.
BTW .. I added a link above to a Lstiburek video.
John:
Thanks for the idea. I've read material at the Building Science web site for years. I have the EEBA book for my climate. I've used some of the techniques on my houses. Here is the problem. I build in the real world. My way or the highway Joe has some good information to present but some of it just isn't practical. If these EEBA guys wanna sell their stuff they gotta figure out how to main stream it.
Sorry, but I won't be going to any of their seminars. Like I said, among other things I'm interested in resume building - in these days of employment un-certainty. People in my business need to be grounded in reality. Prospective employees want to look at your gross product and net profit figures. Sure there are always the 1% who don't have to deal with building regular houses for regular people. I'm just not one of them.
On the other hand I've recently had discussions with a guy looking for a house to be built who asked for LEED, and a guy from the city who has partial control on who (what builder) gets what lots who wanted to talk about building LEED houses. I need to at least get knowledgeable enough so I can discuss it.
I'm enrolled in a LEED intro seminar for the end of this month. Hopefully I'll get a clearer picture of the basics then.
Matt,
I should not bash LEED... A lot of good people are doing a lot of good things.
And there is probably a lot to learn by going thru "the process"
I just think that my local experience with USGBC was disapointing.
You are doin a lot of good stuff and I admire your dedication to learning and improving and building houses that people can actually afford.
As a non-professional, I like the concept of a neutral third-party certification that a building meets certain standards for energy efficiency and use of materials. Whether LEED is any good or not, I don't know, but I would be willing to pay some $$ in exchange for assurance that a house I'm buying meets some standard.
Here in my tiny town in Maine, we don't even have a building code, let alone an energy code. A buyer is completely at the mercy of the builder who may or may not know anything about energy efficiency.
>> Whether LEED is any good or not, I don't know, but I would be willing to pay some $$ in exchange for assurance that a house I'm buying meets some standard. << In your instance, I'd certainly want it too.
OTOH, just so you can put some numbers behind those $$s an Energy Star certification (for example) might cost between $500 and $1200 for the testing and paperwork only. A LEED certification for a house might cost in the neighborhood of 3 grand - again for the testing and paperwork only. So, if you want LEED, you might have to give up those granite counter tops...
Matt,
You are good about putting things in perspective when it comes to cost.
I think that your experience with Energy Star was very worthwhile...you learned how to build a much better home.
Now what about the next house? Are you going to learn anything new from your ES technician.
Will your next house be better because it is Energy Star.
What if you take that $500 and provide healthy mechanical ventilation to the next house instead?
Edited 1/17/2009 10:23 am by homedesign
Are you saying forgo the ES testing and spend the money on upgrades instead?
BTW "healthy mechanical ventilation" costs more than $500 doesn't it? I thought ERVs started at least around $1500. Could be wrong. It's been a while since I priced them. Or are you talking about something else, like ES bath fans for example.
Also BTW - I have 3 I'm building right now. No ES features. It's what the budget requires for that neighborhood. :-( Also, from those 3, to bring them up to just before sheetrock it generated roughly 50 yards of trash total. Really the pile for each house wasn't that big... but it adds up. I was thinking about you and your sort bins. It would take me 2 days to sort that much trash... Not what I wanna do with my life...
Are you saying forgo the ES testing and spend the money on upgrades instead?
Just something to consider.... wonder what they would charge for just the blower door test?... I like the blower door test.
By mechanical ventilation.. I do not mean an HRV...
But you may remember that your current scheme does not allow for adequate ventilation on mild days or during the shoulder seasons.
You need some type of controller to open a damper and run the fan on some kind of schedule.
As to the trash sorting...live and learn..that was a big waste of my time..but I did it while I was keeping an eye on the subs and waiting for inspectors to show up.
I have already built a few houses using most the the ES techniques without the testing...
and - OH - OK you are talking about an air cycler or similar. Why does the damper need to be automatically controlled? If there is a automatically controlled damper I can see the $$ in that, but how much does the air cycler alone cost? I'd say it looks like a $150 kinda deal. It's probably been 8 years since I used those - can't remember, plus at that time I wasn't very attuned to budgets.
Here is another certification:
http://www.nahbgreen.org/Education/greenprofessional.aspx
This program sounds a little more practical than some.
Matt...you would probably benefit from just using the controller with no damper...I do not know what just the damper component costs...My understanding is that any of the controllers will all be capable of controlling a damper(my honeywell does)
Why have the damper open when you have already satisfied the need for ventilation?
Your house may overventilate when it is very hot or very cold...exactly when over ventilation has the largest penalty.
Edited 1/17/2009 11:44 am by homedesign
>> Why have the damper open when you have already satisfied the need for ventilation?
Your house may overventilate when it is very hot or very cold...exactly when over ventilation has the largest penalty. <<
That makes a lot of sense. BTW - back when we did this they did testing on the air inlet to be sure the minimum flow was being met. The EX people had required a 6" duct. As it turned out I ended up cutting the damper WAY back so that just somewhat over the minimum was being sucked through. My conclusion was that a 6" pipe was way too big.
OTOH motorized dampers are expensive. That is part of what makes zoned HVAC systems so much more expensive - definitely in the low 4 digit range.
Next time I do an ES house I'll ask about the air cycler, etc.
Edited 1/17/2009 6:14 pm ET by Matt
Matt...this damper is $232
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/ARD6
the controller $168
http://customer.honeywell.com/honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/W8150A1001#LiteratureDownload
I think that you should use a controller anyway( i am not promoting the honeywell)there may be better
so the only extra expense is the motorized damper...which will save energy
Edited 1/18/2009 7:02 am by homedesign
That makes a lot of sense. BTW - back when we did this they did testing on the air inlet to be sure the minimum flow was being met. The EX people had required a 6" duct. As it turned out I ended up cutting the damper WAY back so that just somewhat over the minimum was being sucked through. My conclusion was that a 6" pipe was way too big.
Matt, the flow test shows the flow when the fan is running.
How did you know how many hours each day the fan would run?
Did not mean to sidetrack this discussion..
Edited 1/18/2009 7:09 am by homedesign
The air cycler had adjustments for that, although, you are right, the total amount that the fan would run during a day would be seasonable.
Also, the prices you have given are just to purchase the stuff. Probably multiply by 2 or more to get the installed price.
For other people reading this, back when we did this I put together a brief instruction document for the HOs since it was clear that none of them understood it. Most of it was probably copied off the web site. If anyone is interested take a look at the attached and it explains how these things work that Homie and I are talking about. I'm guessing this system is significantly cheaper than what Homie got.
Thanks Matt..
I like the system and it looks like a safe and SIMPLE strategy.
Simple is good.
And it must be be more affordable and perhaps even save some future maintenance or replacement dollars.
Can you post the same thing over at the half passive thread?
I hadn't really been reading that one. Pretty long now for me to just jump in the middle.
Matt,
That's fine... I will post it
I think that ventilation is widely misunderstood.(myself included)
I am trying to find out how other people are achieving good ventilation and appreciate your comments and suggestions
John
Edited 1/18/2009 10:24 am by homedesign
You know a week ago I was trying to point out the Aircycler to someone in another forum.I know that EFI.org used to carry them.And I tried a google on Air Cycle Time and similar.Found some stuff for 120 volt and some controls tied into HRV systems and they like.But ever the system that ties into the furance. Though maybe that it was no longer around.But did find that some thermostats have that feature built in..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
There web site still lists them... http://www.aircycler.com/productline.htm
What thermostats? I'd be interested, especially if they are programmable, as that is one of the ES requirements.
After I saw the spelling I googled and found it.http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0008_9.pdf"
The blue screen White Rodgers t-stat has a "programmable fan" option.Fan Prog will run the fan when the heating or cooling system is on. In addition, when the thermostat has not called for heat or cool for more than 60 minutes, it will begin to cycle the fan for 10 minutes on and 20 minutes off to improve indoor air quality. This is the Comfort Circulating Fan Feature. "I am not sure, but I think that some of the Honneywell Vision Pro thermostats have that feature.Also I would check with the furnace manufactures. Many not be available in the price range that you use. But I think that some of the high end units can do more tricks with stats that are made specifically for that unit.And with the variable speed fan motors I think that some of them can have a separate speed for circulation mode.I know that at one time Carrier had a dehumidifier mode on the AC and if the room humidity level was over the setpoint it would run the fan on a lower speed for a few minutes to get extra dehumidification.Honneywell also had a dehumidifier mode. But it could only drop the AC setpoint a degree or two because it could not control that feature in the furnace..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
That looks like a really nice T-stat you linked to. I didn't look too close, but I wonder if you can program the fresh-air timing.... Also, I wonder if it will control a damper for that... No need to answer. Just thinking out loud.
We use Trane systems but I guess they are probably like anything else - they have their low end models. As you know I build affordable homes. The house only I ever built with a variable speed blower is my own. :-)
I'm not a big fan of granite anyway. God (or Al Gore) invented Formica after all:-)
I would be willing to pay an extra 3K for an existing LEED platinum certified house, or the equivalent, as opposed to a house with no certification, especially if I couldn't verify all aspects of construction. I suppose a few years of energy bills, if low enough and if I had a basis for comparison, might be an adequate substitute.
As a practical matter, I do wonder if the average buyer will pay a premium for the extra costs associated with constructing within the LEED or Energy Star standards, let alone for the certification costs. I am constantly astounded at how little people know about basic house construction concepts, especially with respect to energy and maintenance costs.
Again, living in a place where no one inspects any aspect of the construction, except the pitch of the drain lines, a buyer is really taking a risk buying an existing house or even having a GC build one, without some sort of third party certification.
>> I would be willing to pay an extra 3K for an existing LEED platinum certified house, or the equivalent, as opposed to a house with no certification, especially if I couldn't verify all aspects of construction. I suppose a few years of energy bills, if low enough and if I had a basis for comparison, might be an adequate substitute. <<
The $3k was just for the testing and paper work - not for any actual physical work to be completed on the house. So making a really wild guess LEED platinum might cost you $10k or $15k or even more in extra costs. So, your payback time will definitely span more, maybe even way more, than "a few years of energy bills".
OTOH you said "existing" so you might have it right. Family has dream home built and spends an extra $15k on energy upgrades and green building and the LEED certification. Family's circumstances change and they have to sell it. They end up with $3K more than a "regular house" of the same size because of the $15k they spent on upgrades.... OUCH!
PS - why was it that I was thinking you lived in some large metro area like DC or LA.... Maybe someone else with 'law" in their screen name....
why was it that I was thinking you lived in some large metro area like DC or LA....
my practice is just outside Boston, but where I live in Maine has almost 700 people in town.
I don't see an NFL franchise in the immediate future.
No football? What kind of life is that????
:-)
Are you thinking of SHGlaw?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
yea - that's it....
Whether LEED is any good or not, I don't know, but I would be willing to pay some $$ in exchange for assurance that a house I'm buying meets some standard.
smslaw,
I have to admit that we are better off with LEED and Energy Star and all of the Green Building programs.
The problem is that the public may get a false sense of security when they see a label.
I know first hand that some LEED, Energy Star and GreenBuiltNorthTexas certified homes have some serious construction flaws and safety issues.
I have reported the safety issue to the builder involved and he has corrected it.
Some of the rated homes are poor Energy performers too.
Matt:
I missed this discussion earlier. Didn't see a 100% answer to your questions.
I passed the NC 2.2 exam back in December. Have had several co-workers, etc ask about it since.
I think the system fills a needed role in the industry. I admit to balking at the fees- for the test/guides, for certification, etc. There are several questions about the process that the first answer is "submit payment to USGBC for $X." And I looked up their tax filings, and the USGBC is big business (~$35M in '07, with staff all >$100k and CEO at $340k). But no one's raising a stink about all that.
Below is the e-mail I sent to a couple folks. Hope it helps.
Ted
- We both took New Construction (NC) v.2.2. The good news is that once you're certified, you can facilitate projects in any of their certification tracks, regardless of updates to the certification system (EB- Existing Building, CI- Commercial Interiors, CS- Core and Shell, H- Homes). The bad news is that a major update is due in early '09- LEED NC 2009 apparently includes a lot of changes to make the system more detailed/appropriate for various regions/climates. The ($250) guide books that we bought will be outdated at this point.
- The test sucks, for lack of a better descriptor. Unlike all of the PE testing, this is closed book. You basically need to memorize their certification system (outline of credits, percentages, calculations, reference standards, misc green building facts, etc). And the questions tend to be purposefully tricky/gotcha. The material wasn't that familiar for me as a CE- lots of energy design standards for HVAC, for example. And there's a lot of content on the process- what happens when during design/construction.
- There is some element of luck of the draw in the test. It's computer-based. And you could draw a relatively-easy version or one that is really hard. I felt like I got somewhat lucky. It's $400 each time you take it.
- There are a lot of resources out there. We bought the Colorado chapter's study guide. There's a free (and hard) practice test at BuildingGreen.com. There's a lot of info and people's "brain dumps" on the test at IntheLEED.com, which also links to a dedicated discussion forum at AREForum.
-I also paid $50 for access to online practice tests at GreenExamPrep.com. To give you an idea of the crapshoot nature of taking the test, a lot of folks online think the GEP tests are easier than the real thing. I thought it was about the same, however, and was good prep.
FWIW, we both did it somewhat at the encouragement of senior folks. It's a box they want to be able to check off for local proposals. We took a prep/review class in June '07, which I'm not sure how useful it was, given the elapsed time in between then and actually taking the test.
If you want to hustle and get certified, we have a lot of 'free' info you can use. But in a month or 2, it all gets superceded by the new version.
Thank you so much for your response. You are right. Above there was only one or 2 response that really addressed my Q. A bit frustrating, but I have 2 seminars starting in a few days that I was hoping would answer my Qs.
RE: >> I admit to balking at the fees- for the test/guides, for certification, etc. There are several questions about the process that the first answer is "submit payment to USGBC for $X." And I looked up their tax filings, and the USGBC is big business (~$35M in '07, with staff all >$100k and CEO at $340k). But no one's raising a stink about all that. <<
I'm with you on that.... One of those deals where corporate America positions themselves to look like do-gooders but aren't allowed to drive their mega SUVs to the office because someone might flag them as non-green. :-) But I'll put up with some BS if I can build my resume and advance myself professionally.
So, if you don't mind me being very specific, it sounds like maybe $1000 was spent on your certification? I think I might be able to get my company to pay for at least part of that. How many hours would you estimate you studied (roughly)?
In my comments about USGBC, I neglected to point out that they are a non-profit. Thus the huge head slap on the amount of cash that's involved, even though I don't think it's a corporate front at all. It's just that they aren't giving out money to advance science like the Gates, etc.
As for the costs of certification- the guide was $250; test was $400; about $100 in study guides and practice tests; and the seminar was probably another $400. I took the seminar 18 months before actually getting around to taking the test, so the value probably wasn't huge.
I studied lightly for several months, then heavily for 2-3 weeks at the end. The earlier stuff was just reading the reference guide cover to cover, then going back and reviewing stuff that I'd forgotten from earlier.
When I got down to it, it was a massive memorization exercise. Basically learned the credit outline; the thresholds for points, exceptional performance; the reference standards; and the process (what happens when). Taking all the practice tests helped w/ the mindset to think like they ask questions.
Note that the AP setup will change w/ '09, also. They're adding some fees to stay current, as well as continuing ed, etc. You'll have to make the judgement about whether you want to go ahead and get accredited or hold out for the new system. Right now they're listing 3/31/09 as the last day to register for the old exam. Not sure what that means about when the new one becomes available.
Does this help?
http://www.greenexchange.com/read.php?id=36
Thanks.
Took and passed my LEED AP exam last Friday. Yippee!
Do you pretty much do residential or commercial? .... and - are you a designer or what?
I am a mechanical engineer currently working for an HVAC equipment manufacturer as an "application specialist". So presently that is exclusively commercial/non-residential.
I have worked, and plan to do so again in the future, as an HVAC system design enigneer in commercial, industrial, institutional, mulit- and single family residential building design, consulting and remediation; though the bulk of that experience is not single family residential.
In commercial, do they use Manual-J and Manual-D?
No. Commercial HVAC design can be(is usually) more complex than the SMACNA guidelines can accomodate. I personally have never seen or used either a Manual J or a Manual D.
I learned how to do this old school (pencil, paper, calculator and tables of data, ductulator), but currently many software programs are available that will run the loads, calculate air flows on a zone by zone basis and analyze the energy use for the year. I still design duct and piping systems by hand, but software exist for those as well.