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leveling a concrete floor

dlb | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 15, 2005 03:46am

All,

Within the next 2 weeks I’ll be installing ~400 sq. ft. of tile on a 20 yr. old concrete slab. I feel certain that the floor is not level. I just need a few hints on how to get started in determining where it is in need of correction. I think that I can install the floor leveling compound correctly but it is trying to figure out just where to place it that has me concerned.

Thanks,

dlb

.

 

The Undisciplined Life Is Not Worth Examining.

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  1. fredsmart48 | Jul 15, 2005 10:51pm | #1

    depends on what you mean by level.  If you are looking for low and high spots or if you want it dead on level.   

     

    Get a string line and two 2x4  tie the string around one of the 2x4  so the string comes off the top and put heavy weight on top of it. do the same on the other one pull the string tight.  Now measure the distant to the floor.  it should be the same height.  if the floor has no high spots or low spots.   stick could use a say a 10 ft straight edge and put that on the floor and see if there are any low or high spots under the straight edge pivot from the center that would give you 20 ft,  with a good level on top you not only check for high and lows you can check for level. 

    If you want the floor level there are some way for you to check. first one is you will need to rent, buy or brow transit and hold a stick up with a tape measure to the from the floor. Next thing rent or get a rotating laser and do the same.  The next is a water level and do about the same thing.  if this is the basement you may want to leave the slope and just get rid of the low and high spots. 



    Edited 7/15/2005 3:57 pm ET by fredsmart

  2. User avater
    AdamGreisz | Jul 16, 2005 12:51am | #2

    There are many self leveling products on the market. They are typically similar to split pea soup in consistency and many of them feather to an edge.

    Here is a self leveling underlayment from Miracote. It self levels from 3/16's-2"thick.

    http://www.miracote.com/index.php?href=productdetail&id=23

    Adam Greisz

    Owen Roberts Group

    10634 East Riverside Drive # 100

    Bothell, WA 98011

    http://www.owenrobertsgroup.com

  3. brownbagg | Jul 16, 2005 01:36am | #3

    drop a bucket of water on the floor, that tell you where the dips are.

    1. dlb | Jul 16, 2005 01:45am | #4

      Tell me that you are kidding!

      If you are serious tell me what you did.

      If you are kidding, it makes me think that this may not be a bad way to know where to put the leveling compound. After pouring the water and revealing the low spots all that I would have to do is mix in a little leveling compound, let it set up and I am ready to go!

      dlb

      .

       The Undisciplined Life Is Not Worth Examining.

      1. ScottMatson | Jul 16, 2005 02:24am | #5

        Can't speak for him, but I don't think he's kidding. Gotta love the simple solutions. Take them when you can.

        1. jjkaz | Jul 17, 2005 08:21pm | #6

          Back to the question of level or flat. Level is almost impossible without a LOT of self leveling overlayment material. Think $experienced$ $installer$. Flat is easier, but relative. How "flat" do you need it? All of the listed methods for finding low spots are valid. The bucket of water method works, but is limited by how fast the surface sucks up the water. If you generally locate the bad spots with any method, you'll still need some nice screed rods to install the products. Home Depot sells a set ranging from 15" up to 6' . Longer than that, you can use some sturdy commercial grade stair nosing. Long screeds are usually aluminum or magnesium rectangular tubing about 1' X 4". Self leveling compounds are tricky to work with, and the instructions must be followed exactly for optimal results. Most of the polymer concrete mixtures and systems for decorative overlays are easy to work with (try http://www.concretesolutions.com).

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