FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

leveling a floor

| Posted in General Discussion on September 2, 2000 04:25am

*
I am currently renovating a house built in 1900. Their is a two and one half inch drop in the floor from the outside wall to the center support beam of the house, a distance of twelve sloping feet from outside to the center support beam. What is the correct procedure and necessary tools required to raise the floor to a level position? How will this effect the freshly installed drywall and taped job?

I had a brainstorm of leveling the floor by laying plywood gradually to build up a subfloor, then use floor leveler to use as a base for my floor tile. The demensions of the floor are 12ft(sloping distance)by 20 feet. Is this a feasible method if jacking up the floor is not feasible?
Experts are solicited.Thanks

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Guest_ | Jun 27, 2000 05:24pm | #1

    *
    Hi Robert,

    Too bad you didn't have the brainstorm before installing and taping your drywall.

    Because none of us can see the structure of your floor, it is advisable to have an experienced contractor look at it for advise. Yes you will have to pay a small consulting fee, but it may save a lot of money and grief down the road.

    Normally, jacking the main beam that has dropped in the middle of a house is not a big deal and can be done in an afternoon.

    But like I said, I can't see the structure and would be hesitant to give specific details or advise.

    Gabe

    1. Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 12:57am | #2

      *Ahhh, the things a little plywood and alot of fixall won't cure. It's what's better known as a patch job. If the house were your very own how would you handle the problem? Would you have a house mover slide in some "I" beams jack it up and redo the foundation, or shim the sill,or drop the beam in the center ? Tough call when it's your own money. Chances are that if the house only settled 2" in a hundred years a floor patch should last say another 50 or till the next happy homeowner wants to install marble granite or tile where the vinyl flooring is. I say patch it, fixall's cheap and it works.

      1. Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 01:20am | #3

        *So, Mr. Pro-Dek, do you also throw all your construction debris into the wall cavities and let the next owner worry about it? It's cheaper than dumpster fees and it works.

  2. Jeff_J. | Jul 20, 2000 03:49am | #4

    *
    You been peeking at my jobsites Ralph? Jeff

  3. Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 06:33am | #5

    *
    So that's why I find all that crap in the walls.

    1. Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 10:07am | #6

      *If this beam is in a crawler, how about a 6x6 post base cast into a 1' x 2' x 2' pad, and before you cut the post to size, use a couple of bottle jacks to raise it half the distance its out. You probably won't pop any sheet rock nails, and will stop the sag problem from going any further downhill.  Some of the doors may have already been trimmed to allow for this level problem. Maybe someone with more experience fixing level problems could shed light with the results of raising a floor this much. You might also state what is directly above the beam in question. A living room would be different than a kitchen, I would guess.

      1. Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 12:59pm | #7

        *I'm with Nantan. Stop any furthere settling and then level the floor from above.Unless they want the house jacked to level and want to pay you for the work to do that, the steel you'll need, patching the plaster, rehanging the doors and windows, and any other structural damage that is discovered (or caused) as you try to bend 100 year old floor joists 1-1/2" over 12'.You could disassemble the house piece by piece, inspect each, replace any that are warped and reassemble the house, or you could just do what's necessary.

        1. Guest_ | Jul 20, 2000 07:50pm | #8

          *on examination i would probably go in and start jacking the center beam.. which would pick up the center bearing wall..which would crack some of your drywall..which would bring some of your doors back into correct alignment..with the new laser equip. the extent of the problem can be more easily determined than in years past..one of the things to determine, or course, is WHY the center beam dropped..a problem like this is usually evident from the street, because it carries thru all the way to the ridge.. the old sway-backed horse......i wouldn't be too hasty to be shimming the floor

          1. Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 02:20am | #9

            *If you jack it up very slowly, like maybe a half inch to start, and a quarter inch every week or two, maybe it would come up without causing too much trouble.

          2. Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 03:51am | #10

            *Or maybe it won't...

          3. Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 05:23am | #11

            *Is that Herbie the Love Bug racing by? Jeff

          4. Guest_ | Jul 21, 2000 07:04am | #12

            *Robert, I bet you Mike is spot on on this. If the ridge has sagged, prepare for this beam to come out swingin' as you try to raise it.

          5. Guest_ | Jul 22, 2000 02:02am | #13

            *LOL Ralph, Would this be a remodel , say, south of San Diego ?

  4. Mike_Gabriel | Jul 28, 2000 06:15am | #14

    *
    AHH, a little paint and some TLC, and it's good as new!

    1. Dallas_Whitford | Aug 06, 2000 10:43pm | #15

      *Robert, 1. No matter how slow you lift the center or any other sturctural support the cracking will be the same. Going slow is an old wives idea. 2. After 100 years warped and bent lumber will often crack or continue to "lift" the warp right up. 3. Curing a problem in one area can often cause worse problems in another area. We replace basements, and consequently end up leveling houses which cuases me to adivse most homeowners to go with the ideas above of stabilizing and either leave it alone and use self-leveling concrete. 4. Just out of curiosity where is the chimney in relation to the center support?

  5. Guest_ | Sep 02, 2000 01:08am | #16

    *
    Going slow is because you're paid by the hour.... ;-)

    -- J.S.

    1. Guest_ | Sep 02, 2000 04:12am | #17

      *The last house that we remodeled had a terrible floor system that had bowed more than 8 inches from centerline of the house to the perimiter. This is the unfortunate result of 100+ years of spring melt off running directly through the yard. The floor system consisted of notched beams for rim joists and hatchet-flattened trees of various dimensions for the joists and a mudsill foundations. My client initially wanted me to jack up her house, but you can't remove 8" of bow in 6-10" trees in a week or two. We ended up gutting the house and rebuilding it from the foundation up. Wish we had dozed the property instead :)

      1. Guest_ | Sep 02, 2000 04:25am | #19

        *Aren't old houses fun?Jacking up the floor usually works, but as someone else already said, you need to find out why the floor sagged in the first place; Just 100 years of holding up a lot of weight, insufficient or disintegrating pillar or support, water damage, etc. Also, before you start lifting up the saging members you should be sure not to put too much pressure in one place. The load may need to be spread out to avoid making nasty cracking noises. As for putting all that plywood and putty over the top, you already have a sag in the floor, more weight would not help the underlying problem one bit.As the others have said, it would be a good idea to let someone who has worked on these before take a look before you go ahead with anything. Each old house is different, but that's what makes working on them interesting.

  6. robert_lightfoot | Sep 02, 2000 04:25am | #18

    *
    I am currently renovating a house built in 1900. Their is a two and one half inch drop in the floor from the outside wall to the center support beam of the house, a distance of twelve sloping feet from outside to the center support beam. What is the correct procedure and necessary tools required to raise the floor to a level position? How will this effect the freshly installed drywall and taped job?

    I had a brainstorm of leveling the floor by laying plywood gradually to build up a subfloor, then use floor leveler to use as a base for my floor tile. The demensions of the floor are 12ft(sloping distance)by 20 feet. Is this a feasible method if jacking up the floor is not feasible?
    Experts are solicited.Thanks

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans

Hover's smartphone app offers an easier way to get precise 3D scans.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • A Summer Retreat Preserved in the Catskill Mountains
  • Fine Homebuilding Issue #332 Online Highlights
  • The Trump Administration Wants to Eliminate the Energy Star Program
  • Podcast Episode 685: Patching Drywall, Adding Air Barriers, and Rotted Walls

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data