Replies

1. 
   peteshlagor | Nov 06, 2008 07:21pm | #1

   Yes, but it gets costly.  That's why you're about to see several other suggestions about laying sleepers.

   But there are ways to reduce the cost.  First, be sure to choose a lower cost spreadable mortar that can be "fattened up" as the leveling base layer  I mean, that you can add pea rock to it as a filler without loss of characteristics.  Then, fatten up the low spots and use less to none as you need to feather out.  AND then, top coat with a stainable cementatious coating - that works similar to DW mud.  Follow with a multi-stain and cut/grout pattern to mimic tiles - limited by only your imagination.

   Understand that these "ceements" are highly engineered with a number of admixes designed for adhesion, strength, curing time, etc.  By themsleves, even fattened up, you may be looking well north of $1,000 for your size job.  Combining the tiling cost will bring the whole thing into a more competitive evaluation.

   A number of different types and applications can be found under "products" here:   http://www.miracote.com

    

2. 
   JohnFinn | Nov 06, 2008 07:32pm | #2

   Lots to consider here. Have you given thought as to how the mechanicals will be run? Also, depending on your climate, you may want to consider in-floor (or hydronic radiant) heating. Now would be the opportune time to install. I like the idea of staying with concrete however, seeing you will be tiling this area, it would be the most cost effective solution.

3. 
   FastEddie | Nov 06, 2008 07:57pm | #3

   What pete said.  There are several brands and versions of self-levelling toppings, and they are made for specific uses.  Some go from zero to 1/2" thick, others from 1/2" to 3", so you might have to use more than one.

   Isn't there a short step down from the house to the garage?  I have never had a house where the garage floor was truly level with the house floor.  That might allow you to call in a redi-mix truck with the right aggregate and pour a full topping from 2" to 4" over the whole floor.  And you can embed conduit for electrical to the island.

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

4. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Nov 06, 2008 08:56pm | #4

   An idea for the least depth::

   Make sleeper molds, 2" or so wide, every 24". You can rip them out of melame, they don't have to be very strong. Set them up initially, mark the level, then cut on your mark on a table saw. Place them back on the floor. Recheck for level -on both axis!

   Fill your molds with med bed mortar and strike off at the top.

   When cured, pull the molds. You now have embedable sleepers that you can pour between that you can also strike off against for level. Much easier to work out the bumps on one strip than over 400 sq ft all at once!

   Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
   Also a CRX fanatic!

   Tu stultus es

1. 
   ElegantSolution | Nov 07, 2008 01:44am | #5

   Thanks. This is a pretty creative idea, but it sounds like a lot of work. Joe

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Nov 07, 2008 06:47am | #6

   Sounds like work now... until you find yourself having to correct a ton of uneven spots in the floor!  That is a real PITA!Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

   Tu stultus es

1. 
   ElegantSolution | Nov 07, 2008 04:49pm | #7

   Paul,You are correct. Last night I called up my concrete guy (where I should have started) and asked his advice. He said he could level the floor with a delivered batch (2 yards) of "grout," which around here is sort of like mortar, with no stones. I will have to put a finished floor on top, but I was planning that anyway. What do you think?Joe

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Nov 07, 2008 08:34pm | #9

   Just make sure the concrete guy is actually saying he can make it smooth and level!  Its not hard to pour a lot of mix, what's hard is getting it do do what you need it to do.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

   Tu stultus es

2. 
   FastEddie | Nov 07, 2008 08:44pm | #10

   what's hard is getting it do do what you need it to do

   Too right.   For a room this size he really needs some screed bars in the middle."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

3. 
   ElegantSolution | Nov 08, 2008 04:49pm | #11

   Paul and Fast Eddie,Thanks for the advice. My concrete guy has done a good job in the past. I like the idea of screed bars in the center. I could make four of them running the entire length from 2 inch to zero simply by laying down some 2x2s, striking a level line, bandsawing the contours, and tapcon screwing them to the floor, thus giving me three bays of about 9 feet. After the pour, I could remove the screeds and pack in more grout/mortar.Next question: Can I tile over this surface? Recommend an uncoupling membrane under tile? What about the stress grooves that were sawed into the original concrete floor? Do I need to keep tile grout lines directly over those places?Joe

4. 
   DonCanDo | Nov 09, 2008 01:29am | #12

   If you use pressure treated lumber for your screeds guides, I don't think you would need to remove them.  And besides, they're going to be a real bear to get out once the concrete sets up.

5. 
   JohnFinn | Nov 07, 2008 07:03pm | #8

   This may be a product for your project...
   http://www.maxxon.com/level-right/data