FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Leveling toilet on ceramic tile floor

Lyptus | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 27, 2009 05:10am

After I installed a ceramic tile floor in my bathroom I noticed that the tiles around the toilet flange are seated level (my bad). The toilet will not sit flush with the floor but rather wobbles about 1/16†right and left due to the floor problem. Are there any sorts of rubber or silicone pads that I can place on the base of the toilet to level it so that I can also caulk around the toilet base to form a waterproof seal? Other suggestions?

– Lyptus

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Piffin | Apr 27, 2009 05:16pm | #1

    Put masking tape around it.

    Then pull it up, mix up the same grout you used with the tiles ( thickly, not runny) or some plaster or paris to seat it in, and reset the stool.

    Clean up the ooze around it, sponge, and peel the tape again. Don't use it until it sets up good.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. Lyptus | Apr 27, 2009 05:24pm | #2

      That's an interesting idea. Speaking of which, my directions for installing the floor state to leave a gap between the tub and the floor for expansion. However, my gap is about 3/8" wide so I was wondering if I could grout it and then apply a thin caulk line between the tub and the grout. Would that work or is it better to just apply a really thick line of caulk between the tub and the tile to allow for movement. (Frankly, I don't see how a floor set in cement can expand?)- Lyptus

      1. Piffin | Apr 27, 2009 05:55pm | #3

        More likely to shrink than expand. If you maintain normal room temperature year round, should be no thermal movement. There is some vibration and deflection that can change a joint like that but minimallyI caulkseal, then set tile, grout, then caulk with colour matched grout. if relying on caulk only, I would not leave such a large gap. That calls for a backer rod which you do not want there at a wet location. 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      2. Piffin | Apr 27, 2009 05:58pm | #4

        also, tub it abutts can experience thermal movement. 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      3. MikeHennessy | Apr 27, 2009 07:35pm | #6

        "(Frankly, I don't see how a floor set in cement can expand?)"

        More likely, it the tub will expand when you fill it with hot water. If you can get a good grout line between the tile and tub with a space between it and the grout, caulk should be fine. I shoot for about 1/8", but that's set when the tile goes in. 3/8" is a tad heavy. ;-(

        Be aware that there is a school of thought that you should never caulk, plaster, thinset or otherwise seal the toilet to the floor for two reasons: it makes it harder to remove for later repairs and, should a leak develop at the flange gasket, the water will leak into the framing instead of out onto the floor where you can see it and take appropriate action. You decide for yourself if you want to subscribe to that thinking. But if you do plaster, thinset, etc, it's a good idea to coat the underside of the toilet with wax, or a sheet of plastic wrap, so you don't glue the toilet down.

        Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

        1. Lyptus | Apr 27, 2009 08:25pm | #7

          The tub I purchased is made of polystyrene plastic and the outer wall is attached with liquid nails to a 2x4 screwed to the subfloor beneath the tub (as per the installation instructions). Given this, is it still likely that the tub will expand enough when filled to crack a grout line between the floor tile and tub? It sounds like the collective responses are warning me not to grout right up to the tub.- Lyptus

          1. MikeHennessy | Apr 27, 2009 08:36pm | #8

            No glue or nail ever made will be strong enough to stop something from expanding/contracting whether it be from heat (like plastic or iron) or humidity (like wood). Plastic moves a lot with heat cycles.

            I would be leary about grouting tight to the tub, but I've always filled the gap with silicone to allow for the movement without making a gutter to collect water. 3/8" is a bit much tho'. I'd rig up a 1/8" spacer next to the tub, grout, remove the spacer then caulk.

            Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

          2. Lyptus | Apr 27, 2009 08:56pm | #9

            What kind of spacer would you suggest and how should I keep the grout from adhering to it so I won't accidentally pull up the grout when I remove the spacer?

          3. Tyr | Apr 27, 2009 11:25pm | #10

            Seems that the original post had to do with a toilet then it morphed into dealing with the tub. Not sure what your typo referred to in the initial post. I've used plastic wedges on toilets and snugged down the bolts--never caulked them. Always have caulked tubs with silicone.
            Steel tubs are formed so the exterior surface is different than the inside holding water--not much heat transfer.
            Intrigued with the grout idea especially if it doesn't adhere to the toilet base.
            I too use masking tape to protect surfaces--just remove it before everything dries (leaves a ridge otherwise).
            Last shimmed toilet was done so HO could remove for snaking pipe. (no cleanout) After shimming I cut protruding portion with rock knife and she used one of those carpets that concealed the floor to base joint.
            (No guys around to pee and miss standing up). Worked for her.
            There are peel and stick clear flexible pads often used under glass covered tables, lamp bottoms, etc. if the gap is small to firm up any toilet wobble. (usually due to uneven ceramic tiles) TyrThings are not always what they seem; the first appearance deceives many; the intelligence of a few perceives what has been carefully hidden.... Roman Poet Phaedrus 15BC–50AD

          4. MikeHennessy | Apr 28, 2009 12:50am | #15

            I'd use something like flashing that you've sprayed with WD-40 or oil to keep the grout from sticking. Lay down a spacer of the appropriate thickness and put the flashing in front of it, between the spacer and the grout line. After the grout starts to set, pull the spacer from behind the flashing and the flashing should release pretty easily.

            Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

        2. JohnT8 | Apr 28, 2009 12:00am | #11

          Be aware that there is a school of thought that you should never caulk, plaster, thinset or otherwise seal the toilet to the floor for two reasons: it makes it harder to remove for later repairs and, should a leak develop at the flange gasket, the water will leak into the framing instead of out onto the floor where you can see it

          I guess I'm old school, but I tend to use plumber's putty.  Although I have caulked once or twice.  Either way, I leave about two fingers width in the back un-caulked/puttied so that if there is a flood it will leak out the back.jt8

          "In three words I can sum up everything I've learned about life: It goes on."

          -- Robert Frost

          1. MikeHennessy | Apr 28, 2009 12:47am | #14

            I'm with ya on leaving a space at the back, but will putty stop the rocking on an uneven floor?

            Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

          2. JohnT8 | Apr 28, 2009 05:47pm | #24

            Probably depends on how uneven it is.  Putty will only squish out so much, so if you put extra on the low side, you might be able to reduce the uneven spots.

             jt8

            "In three words I can sum up everything I've learned about life: It goes on."

            -- Robert Frost

  2. wallyo | Apr 27, 2009 06:25pm | #5

    lyptus

    I have used either plastic shims or rubber tile mounting wedges.

    The mounting wedges are made of the same rubber tile spacers are made of.

    Though I myself need more of them and am having a hard time finding them. Last batch I think i got at a tile center. but they have gone to a harder yellow plastic version.

    Insert either then caulk around the base.

    Wallylo

  3. bldrbill | Apr 28, 2009 12:26am | #12

    my plumber uses pennies for shims

    1. MikeHennessy | Apr 28, 2009 12:46am | #13

      "my plumber uses pennies for shims"

      Heck, mine uses C Notes! ;-)

      Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

      1. rdesigns | Apr 28, 2009 03:06am | #16

        Heck, mine uses C Notes! ;-)

        That was good. (Even though I'm a plumber--or was, for 27 yrs till I became an inspector.)

        Reminds me of a little quote from Mark Twain in "The McWilliamses and the Burglar Alarm":  "When we were finishing our house, we found we had a little cash left over on account of the plumber not knowing it."

      2. User avater
        BillHartmann | Apr 28, 2009 05:18pm | #22

        "Heck, mine uses C Notes! ;-)" and charges 30% overhead on that, but the labor to install them..
        William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

        1. Piffin | Apr 28, 2009 05:46pm | #23

          Hope he uses the new ones and doesn't charge the new price for old used ones 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  4. danski0224 | Apr 28, 2009 03:13am | #17

    Get some plastic shims.

    Look in the plumbing department near the wax rings for them... or look near the doors and windows section.

    1. User avater
      JeffBuck | Apr 28, 2009 03:28am | #18

      exactly ... toilet shims.

      either white or clear plastic.

      plumbing supply ... home depot ... lowes ... decent hardware store.

       

      Jeff    Buck Construction

       Artistry In Carpentry

           Pittsburgh Pa

      1. KHWillets | Apr 28, 2009 07:39am | #19

        Use plastic shims and a waxless ring so you can wiggle it up and down while you're shimming it. Test fit the shims, then cut them back under the edge so you can caulk across them. The caulk may help to stick the shims in place as well.

  5. Gadjet | Apr 28, 2009 09:40am | #20

    There are "plastic" shims available just for this purpose available at home depot in th plumbing section ... small package about 4 in a pack , the shims are about 2" by 2", if I remember correctly in a red back plastic "blister pack".

    I've used them many times, when in place and level, silcone around the base of the toilet with a good quality mold resisitant silicone or latex.  It will keep the shims in place

    1. wallyo | Apr 28, 2009 11:22pm | #25

      A bunch of plastic shims in the door aisle will do the same job for probably the same price and you will have a bunch left over for the next rocking toilet.Wallyo

  6. Dave45 | Apr 28, 2009 04:23pm | #21

    I had the same situation (for the same reason - lol) with one of my toilets after I remodeled my guest bathroom ~10 years ago. I got a pack of white plastic (HDPE?) shims at my local ACE Hardware and used two of them to "firm up" the toilet.

    I slipped them in place, tightened the bolts, marked the shims, loosened the bolts, then cut and reinstalled the shims. The stool has been rock solid ever since.

    FWIW, I'm in the camp that doesn't caulk around toilets. If I have a bad seal, I want to know about it ASAP. - lol

  7. mike4244 | Apr 28, 2009 11:50pm | #26

    This is what plumbers putty is for. First of all I am not a plumber, I have seen enough and done enough plumbing to venture an answer. Before the bowl is installed, turn upside down and install wax ring. Then roll plumbers putty in your hands like a rope. Lay the putty "rope"  around the perimeter of the bowl. Push the edges of the rope down so it will stay when you turn the bowl rightside up.Usually about 3/8" to 1/2" diameter of putty will suffice.

    Turn the bowl up and position over the bolts. Park your butt on the bowl .snug up the bolts and clean the excess putty from the perimeter of the bowl. The putty will harden and the bowl will not wobble again.

    With a helper you can probably do this without completely removing the toilet. Remove the nuts, lift the bowl and place three blocks of wood about 1x1-1/2x3" under the bowl. The 1 -1/2" high is enough to lay the putty on the floor around the bowl.Then remove the blocks and reinstall supply line.

    mike

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Tools and Gear for the Moms Who Get it Done

From work boots to power tools, these favorite picks make perfect gifts for moms and women who build.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 684: Masonry Heaters, Whole-House Ventilation, and Porch Flooring
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity
  • Tools and Gear for the Moms Who Get it Done
  • An Easier Method for Mitered Head Casings

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 81%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data