A contractor I’m working with has recommended installation of drywall prior to pouring of lightweight concrete on a custom wood-framed house currently under construction. Seems like a bad idea for a number of reasons…Anyone have any personal experiences with this method?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Lighting up an exterior isn't just about ambiance— it's also about code compliance. Here is what the code says about safety and efficiency when it comes to outdoor lighting.
Featured Video
Highlights
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
Seems like the drywall would suck water right out of the concrete, unless your bottom sheets are all green-board. I always thought you should nail blocking on the soleplate between the studs up past the top of the slab; enough to give nailing and backing for the bottom edge of the drywall and maybe for an expansion strip between the slab and the wall.
I'm not an expert in this matter though.
There are a thousand hacking at the branches of evil to one who is striking at the root. -- Henry David Thoreau
He wants to do that so that he doesn't have to build all the dams to contain the gypcrete.... or the added expense and labor of using a ledger... He's just taking a short cut...
A wood ledger to match the tickness of the rock covered with 15# felt proud of your finished poured elevation is the best way. Pouring to the rock is asking for problems even if you shield it. The problems of mold and mildew will surface after your contractor has left the building...
Fold the felt so that it layts on the floor and then goes up the wall.. Use just enogh staples to hold into place.. Cutting away any felt that is showing above the gypcrete is cake and pie.
Protect yur rock... You can hang, finish and prime the rock to the top of the ledger before the pour if you like...
Gypcrete is soft and doesn't wear well. Sealers are available to help you out here. It's easier and more gooder to cover the floor with 1/8" sheet goods or HD cardboard taped into place including the seams.. Sealers and sheet goods radicaly reduce cure times and keep the MC up. Make sure you do a MC test before installation of final flooring...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!