Replies

1. 
   David_Nickelson | Feb 10, 1999 10:52am | #1

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   For the floor loads and joisting requirements, you should consult your structural engineer.

   Typically a limestone floor can be set on a mortar bed similar to one for tile 3/4 " thick.

   The stone size..depends on the pattern you wish installed. Limestone suppliers can order them in most sizes up to 24x24...and some larger.

   If they want it in a shower...cut the limestone to 6x6 to give some friction underfoot.

   The grouts..will typically match the dominant color of the stone. This gives the floor a more solid stone look...as opposed to individual tiles with an off color grout.

   Joints should be run fairly tight 1/8" is most common.

   Best way to become eddicated on the materials..is to find a good supplier..and have him/her give you the price ranges, the uses of materials, etc.

   Finding a good mason, who is familiar with working with stone materials..is important...Tilesetters..dont necessarily automatically do a good job with stone floors...

   DN

1. 
   Andrew_Stein | Feb 10, 1999 06:21pm | #2

   *We have worked with limestone ( there are a number of different varieties ) and I can add a couple of comments to the previous reply.Limestone is a soft, pourous material so definitely think about sealers. I recommend sealing after setting the tile and before grout. Then sealing again after grout. We used Pourous Plus from miracle sealants and did multiple coats. It was expensive but worked well and is holding up well after several years.Depending on the supplier, you may have variations in the thickness of the tile - this may affect your choice of substrates. We usually use a 3/4" - 1 1/4" wire reinforced mortar bed ( depending on the type and stiffness of the subfloor). Then we set the tile in polymer modified thinset. Some natural stones can stain from gray thinset, so test the material and if necessary use white thinset.One of the limestone floors we installed was "tumbled". The client wanted an old world look, so we used a wider grout line -3/8 - 1/2", and kept the grout low. Client loved it! There might be a picture of that job at my web site : http://www.designmanifest.com. Check it out.Good luck.

1. 
   David_Nickelson | Feb 10, 1999 07:46pm | #3

   *Second the post above...One other caveat...I ALWAYS inform my client that when they buy stone as a material, it will be necessary from time to time..to clean and reseal.....I have a local fella..whom I use to clean and seal the stone after installation, and he then puts them on a maintenance program.In that way, the client and sealing sub...are responsible for the maintenance of the stone, not the GC...DN

1. 
   Andrew_Bell | Feb 23, 1999 03:48am | #4

   *What makes doing a stone floor more difficultthan tile? Can a homeowner tackle stone, orshould it be left to someone who has done alot of it?

2. 
   Dirk_Dinsmore | Feb 23, 1999 03:48am | #5

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   Looking for information on installing limestone floors in the second (framed) floor of an upper end custom. The job is still a ways out but the client really wants this, so I need to gather information so I have something to say besides "huh?" when she asks me what kind of floor system is required to adequately support this. What size are the stones, what kind of bed are they set into, how stiff does the floor need to be, what kind of grout is used, etc. Any online sources of info (or any other source for that matter)would be appreciated

   Dirk Dinsmore

   Dinsmore Construction Co.