I have removed Linoleum tile from my basement cement floor, the black glue remains how do I get rid of the glue? Can I just epoxy paint over the top of it? Or what kind of prep do I do with what’s there?
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bump
bump whats that? I am looking for some help. What is bump?
Just someone being helpful -- making your post appear more recent so it'll attract more attention.
Seven blunders of the world that lead to violence: wealth without work, pleasure without conscience, knowledge without character, commerce without morality, science without humanity, worship without sacrifice, politics without principle. --Mahatma Gandhi
Rub a block of dry ice on the adhesive to freeze it, then chip it off.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Be aware that it may contain asbestos. Do you know what year it was installed?
I believe sometime in the late 80's/early 90's
You're probably safe from an asbestos standpoint, then. The bad stuff was used into the late 70s, I believe.For small amounts of the stuff you can try various types of paint remover, and also try (not at the same time) a hot air gun or torch. Probably not practical for an entire basement floor, though.
Seven blunders of the world that lead to violence: wealth without work, pleasure without conscience, knowledge without character, commerce without morality, science without humanity, worship without sacrifice, politics without principle. --Mahatma Gandhi
Shade of blue you are SOL.
I can't figure what the epoxy..(and there are many types of epoxy) will do to the goop on the floor but let me tell you oil based concrete paint is NOT the answer. Test your epoxy on a test location on top of some of the glue and see what it looks like. If it starts to look like a glass of swirled chocolate malt then your epoxy is melting the glue.
I've got that tee shirt. The oil based paint solvents the glue. Even if it is 50 years old like mine was the stuff comes back to life. Easy money for me was to change to latex concrete paint and it solved the color issue.
Texture is another problem. If you have the notched glue line get on your knees with the 4 inch razor blade and start scraping. Cold is better. You'll get about 10 square feet to the blade at best. Don't use a torch. Heat will turn it into a smelly sticky mess. Solvents just are too toxic, and not effective enough.
You are gonna work for this. But at least you got rid of the asbestos floor tile.
I used the dry ice on my floor and it worked well, laborious though! It's also really cheap.
You can freeze a tile while you work on the one you just finished freezing. I used a wide blade putty knife and a hammer. Wouldn't want to do it again. <G>
tile is up...
he only wants to clean up the mastic..
a gallon of thinner is more than he needs..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Ah! I'd still use the dry ice, as another poster also suggested. It's cheaper than a gallon of thinner and a LOT less smelly. <G>
dry ice won't get it clean enough for a paint job..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
ventilate really well and use paint thinner to dissolve it and as a cleaning agent..
paint on the thinner and let soak fer a bit..
scrape up the heavy residue..
wash clean with the thinner and rags...
do not containerize your thinner wet rags..(real fire hazzard) hang them up in the air to dry before throwing then away..
no you will not be able to paint over it and have a satisfactory job done right..
it's cake and pie... no serious work.. just time..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
some tricks I have found useful....
1. Use a large rect. cake?pan with a hole cut in the side for heat gun. Heat soak apparatus for flooring.
2. When soaking with any solvent, use a sheet of plastic on floor to contain fumes. This cuts down on evap. Do a smallish area at one time.
This may not be what you need here, but file in memory bank for future use.
larry b
Dunno if this will work for you, but I had lino over hardwood, with a tar paper in between. I pulled up the lino and was left with much of the tar paper glued to the floor. I was able to saturate the floor with water.
It turned either the adhesive or the finish on the floor to a milky substance, and I was able to scrape clean with limited muscle. I used the mist function on my wife's plant watering wand to saturate slowly.
May be worth a shot.
Good luck
PS: I'd tested for asbestos, $35 not too bad