We enclosed our screened in patio to use as a mudroom. The floor is a concrete slab, about 10′ by 12′.
I would like to put ceramic tile down. Would it be best for me to use something to take out the slight grade, such as a liquid floor leveler?
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Replies
I don't think I would bother, self leveling products can come out pretty wavy unless mixed and installed properly. How much slope are you talking?
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
I haven't actually measured the slope yet. Meant to do that last night. I will let you know.
I can already tell from the door we installed that the slope will be noticable.
Thanks
Self-leveling cement (SLC) is neat stuff but you have to do it correctly. The material is expensive but there's not much labor because you get a level floor fast.
SLC sets up very quickly so you need to be ready for the pour with available water, a measuring bucket, a good drill with a mixing blade, and mix two bags at a time in a trash can.
Surface preparation is critical -- it must be clean and free of old adhesive, paint, etc. Be certain to use the primer from the manufacturer. You also need to create a continuous dam around the perimeter so your expensive SLC doesn't leak away. Around the perimeter (especially against a masonry wall or surface) you need to use sill seal as an expansion joint.
Ask over at http://www.johnbridge.com if you need more details.
Billy
If the floor is flat (not the same as level) I'm not sure that would be necessary, unless the pitch is such that it would cause problems with finish trim.
As long as the slab is in good shape and flat, you should have no problems setting tile.
cadams03,
Check out http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/SelfLevelingUnderlayments/LevelQuikES.aspx?USER=diy&LANG=en&user=pro&lang=en . We use this product all the time and it is very easy to work with. The extended set time means you don't have to rush and it can be poured up to 1" thick in one application.
Custom's SLC works well. I haven't tried the extended set but it sounds like an excellent recommendation.
If the deep side of the pour is too deep (at about $25 a bag it can get pricey) you can use pea gravel as a filler in the deep portion before you pour the SLC.
Billy
Here's what I've learned about SLC.
If you need more than two bags worth, you need at least one other person helping you.
1 bag covers 12sq' at 1/2" depth
Key #1 - TROWEL IT YOU BAFFOON! Just becuase it SAYS "self" doesn't mean it works all by itself. You have to help it around a little.
Key #2 - Keep that wet edge wet. You only have 5 minutes working time. If you are pouring more than 2 buckets worth, you need the other person to be constantly mixing new buckets to feed you while you pour along that ever expanding wet edge - don't forget to trowel!
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Thanks to everyone for their input.
I took some quick measurements and it looks like the low side is about 5/8 of an inch lower than the high side, so it may not be as bad as I thought.
Billy, you said to use a sill sealer for an expansion joint? Is that the 3 1/2' wide foam stuff that you would put under a sill? Would I stand it up vertically around the framing? Please explain.
Thanks
He ment "window sill", not sill plate. That stuff comes in 15' rolls and is about 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick. It self sticks to the walls. For doorways or other openings, just stick a board in front and tack it down so it doeant move or leak when you pour. It will come out again when it's dry with a couple of taps from a hammer.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
Yes, the sill seal is the 3 1/2" wide foam. Just tack it on the framing with a hammer tacker and use cheap caulk to seal the bottom to the floor and seal any gaps or holes. You can use the self-stick weatherstripping that Paul mentions but it's going to be more expensive and is not necessary. The sill seal works fine.
The key to working with the SLC is to set up everything in advance and *measure the water carefully.* Too little water and the SLC will be too thick and won't flow well. Too much water and it can take a while to set.
You should have no trouble pouring a space the size you mentioned by yourself, but it's nice to have a helper.
Get a large clean plastic trash can and fill it with clean water. Use a smaller plastic trash can that will hold two bags of SLC and water as your mixing can. Then get a bucket, carefully measure the water needed to mix two bags (or one bag) and pour it in the bucket, and carefully mark your water line in the bucket.
Get everything set up for the pour. Open most of the bags of SLC (don't open the last few bags because you might return them -- make sure get extra bags because you don't want to run out. (Do check the date codes on the SLC bags. You don't want old stuff.)
When it's time to pour you just dip your measuring bucket into the large trash can full of water and fill it to the line. Dump some of the water in your mixing can, dump in two bags of SLC, and dump in the rest of the water. Mix it for a minute with your mixing drill , drag the trash can over the the pour site and pour it. Repeat until you're done. On a floor that size you shouldn't need a trowel if you mix the SLC correctly.
See attached photos.
(One of the photos shows leveling using a mud bed for leveling instead of SLC, but SLC is better for thin pours. Also, there's no perimeter expansion joint in some of the pours -- my bad.)
Billy
Self-leveling is just a dream. It is about the consistency of pancake batter, so the front edge of the pour has a lip. And it starts to set about as fast as pancake batter on a griddle.
Someone mentioned sealing the perimeter to keep it from leaking out. I heard a story about one contractor who was using it on the second floor of an office building to level a small breakroom, and didn't check close enough where there was a gap under the baseboard. The first I knew there was a problem ... oops, I mean the first he knew there was a problem was when the downstairs tenant came running up, shouting about grey water dripping out of the light fixtures.
If you only have 5/8" out of level, pour a bag on the deeper end to reduce the difference to 1/4" or so, and then use a thicker layer of thinset to level the tile when it is installed.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt