andybuildz mentioned liquid sandpaper in another thread about painting.
not a product i’m familiar with, so i googled it.
interested in people’s personal experience.
i have to paint some kitchen cabinet doors, and will be using an oil based melamine paint. forget the brandname, maybe para?
guy at the paint store (not a big box), who i don’t know very well, advised that i could skip priming if i sanded the doors.
can i skip the sanding with this product?
i don’t usually try to ‘skip’ necessary steps in a process, but the job has some time constraints.
TIA
Replies
I have used it on paneling and trim where it was other wise smooth enough.
It's purpose is to chemically give it some tooth for the paint to stick to.
If there are any spots that need smoothing out or where you filled nail or knob holes then you will want to sand those.
And I would use a bonding primer in any case.
Those are high grab primers for sticking to questionable surfaces.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
I have used it on paneling and trim where it was other wise smooth enough.
It's purpose is to chemically give it some tooth for the paint to stick to.
If there are any spots that need smoothing out or where you filled nail or knob holes then you will want to sand those.
And I would use a bonding primer in any case.
Those are high grab primers for sticking to questionable
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Kleen-Strip brand has "Easy Liquid Sander" which I've used before painting trims and baseboards. More than anything else, the old painted trim was "cleaned" of dust and grime by this water based product. I just used socks or old cotton rags. I don't know how well it would work on oil based paint, but seemed good on latex paints. I think Parks used to have its own "easy sander" liquid. It was solvent based and softened the finish. It was also a great multi-purpose cleaner.
I'm not familiar with "melamine" paint. Are you saying the cabinet doors are melamine? And the paint is formulated especially for this purpose?
Regarding the liquid sander, it works on some surfaces, not on others. For instance, it works well on existing oil based paints, but not on latex, if I recall. If the cabinets are melamine, I don't know if it will dull them. It might completely disolve the melamine finish. Maybe get a small can of the stuff and try a dab in a hidden area. If it looks dull after the stuff dries, it works. If it's still shiny, it didn't work. If the melamine surface turns to muck, be glad it's getting painted anyway, and get a couple of fine grit sanding sponges at go at it by hand.
Melamine "must" be scuff etched, either chemically or by sanding, for anything to stick to it.
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
Meet me at House & Builder!
I've never heard of "melamine paint" either. I've experimented with painting melamine, but I really have not found anything that sticks well enough to paint kitchen cabinets.
I've also tried liquid sandpaper (also called deglosser) on melamine. It has no apparent effect.
I googled "melamine paint". Apparently there are products out there that go by such a name. Many of them are urethane modified alkyd primers and there are many testimonies to success. I remain skeptical.
I think with proper scuff sanding and a coat of bonding primer, OP should be able to paint the cabs. I've used the SW PrepRite Bonding Primer on wall tile (not in shower) with good success. It's water based, so no noxious fumes like with alkyd.
Bottom line is, melamine is not meant to be painted. But if the customer really, really wants a different color, then it's going to take some time to do it right.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/sherwin_williams_products/interior_house_paint/primers/index.jsp
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!
>>"guy at the paint store (not a big box), who i don't know very well, advised that i could skip priming if i sanded the doors."
For the amount of time and money that priming will cost, versus the amount of time and money that NOT priming could cost.......
Prime! Right after you sand it and wipe it down.
And when the primer is cured, lightly sand that, and put on two topcoats.
Never skimp on the prep work when doing a paint job.
I have used it on factory primer (which usually has lousy "tooth" otherwise) and found it satisfactory (ie, the paint went on smoothly and didn't peel off later). I'd personally use it (and have) on any primer that's been sitting un-coated for more than 1-2 weeks, since primer loses tooth over time.
Whether you can use it to avoid primer in your case would depend on the nature of the existing finish, I suppose. It would definitely be better than just painting over the existing with no primer or sanding.
I've always been skeptical of the ability of simple sanding to provide "tooth", but I can't point to any experience to back this up.
"Liquid sandpaper," TSP, and various abrasives all work to give the new paint something to hold on to. I was rather hasty in the prep work for my kitchen, and it sure is obvious.
The glossier the paint, the more it needs to be prepped. Likewise, if you are applying latex over oil, prep is essential.
It's not an "either-or" proposition. The liquid products are essential for getting into tight spots. Sandpaper, Scotch-brite, and other abrasives are also good at finding paint that isn't firmly attached to the base.
Likewise, your prep will be affected if the surface is not first cleaned. Do you want your paint to stick to the wood - or the grease atop the wood?
Melamine is another animal. It's a plastic that is pretty chemical resistant, and getting a fine enough etch mechanically can be a challenge. I suggest you look at other common solvents, and see if you can find something that actually softens the plastic, without totally destroying it.
Otherwise, an orbital sander with a maroon Scotch-brite pad might do the job.