I am in the process of remodeling our basement. The current beam (3, 2″X10″‘s) spans 8′ between steel posts. I would like to remove 1 steel post creating a 16’ span. I calculated the load to be 1018#’s / linear ft. The load was calculated using the tributary length multiplied by the live and dead loads of the floor above. Then adding in the load of the wall above and then adding in the tributary length multiplied by the live and dead loads of the attic storage space. I referenced the code book for the proper psf LL/DL for each floor as well as the proper plf of the wall above etc. Fortunately I have a footings under the existing columns and the specifications for the existing columns are readily available and sufficient for the load…. My question is, can I add steel plates (flinch beam)or channels (and which size) to the existing 2″X10″‘s. I researched LVL’s but would like to keep the smallest X-section possible. Any thoughts or other possible solutions would be appreciated.
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Replies
Were I in your shoes (and I were just the other day) get thee to a structural engineer to have him spec out your beam and bearing point data. You sound like you have a good handle on calculating loads, but the fact you have questions should signal that at the least you need a confirming opinion of what you want to do.
BTW, in these parts, to do what you want requires a building permit to be pulled, and for it to be approved, an engineer has to have approved (or made up) the changes. When you mess with the structural stability of a residence, this town wants to know about it, and taxes have little to do with it. (Surprisingly.)
Edit, when I think about it, taxes and sanitation facilities do drive the town interest. If you modify a structure into a building with a higher occupancy rate (ie, make another room that can be used as a bedroom) then the town can collect more taxes. The higher occupancy rate may drive a change in your septic system, if you have one. When we pull a permit due to structural changes, we have to provide proof that the change will not result in an increased occupancy rate; such as providing arched room doorways or wide openings, neither of which can be filled easily by a door (after the inspection.) Everything you never wanted to know about permit requirements in SE Conn.
Edited 1/14/2004 6:40:19 PM ET by NickNuke'em
Given that all three 2x10's are continuous over that center column, you can probably go with a flitch design. Google "flitch beam" or "flitch plate", there was a table for them similar to the AISC tables for steel beams that I found somewhere once.
That being said, you'll still need to find an engineer to sign off on it for the permit.
-- J.S.
With a load like that, I doubt you're going to get a flitch beam to work at that span and depth.
Even if you do, someone is going to have to figure out the thickness of the steel, bolt sizes, number of bolts, and bolt locations.
Personally, I would never design a beam without seeing the house for myself. Your load calcs may be 100% correct, or way off. No way to tell from here.
I hate to throw around the "hire an engineer" phrase, but I think that's what you need here.
Next, President Clinton will assert executive-intern privilege. [National Review Online]
Guys,
No problem throwing around the "hire an engineer" as that is what I need to do to get a permit. I just wanted to be as educated as possible before I meet with the engineer. Assuming my load calculations are correct, anyone know what the proper calculations are for flinch beams (did not have any luck with an internet search)? I am really just looking for some open minded ideas and information before I speak with the engineer. Thanks for the help!
>> ... flinch beams (did not have any luck with an internet search)?
If you're spelling flitch with an 'n', you're not going to have much luck. :)
I would describe a flinch beam as the one needing strengthening. Also known as Aye! beam....that's not a mistake, it's rustic
OK, so a little spelling mistake (flinch)... I visited the engineer today and he ran the numbers for me, should have everything in writing tonight. My numbers were fairly close to his. He spec'ed out two additional LVL's (roughly 1.75X12) along with the proper bolting pattern. With a little luck, I should have the permit tomorrow and my local lumber yard stocks the LVL's @4.04/ft which I thought was pretty reasonable. He did not like the steel plate idea... Thanks for the help guys!
Hi tharrett I was wondering what kind of cieling hight are you working with? For all the work that's going to take place you may look at flushing the new beam.
Fortunately plenty of ceiling height. What I had was two small finished rooms, just trying to make 1 big room. So, actually I really do not have that much work to do once I figure out the best/easiest way to support the load above. I am meeting with an engineer at noon and will post the results.