Load bearing wall confusion
I am currently renovating a home, but need some guidance. I am attempting to create an open floor plan that would require removing an interior wall that runs parallel to the floor and ceiling joists, but it is directly under the second floor exterior wall (gable end). I have removed the wall and had jacks in place to hold the weight of the second floor wall, but no weight was transferred to the jacks. I can shake the jacks by hand…..
Is it possible for this wall to be completely non-load bearing? I had planned on using a beam from the exterior wall to the load bearing wall in the middle of the home, but is it necessary? The span is 15 feet and the total house width is 30 feet. It is “stick built”, but uses engineered roof trusses.
Thanks for the guidance!
Replies
It’s load bearing, need to have a header. A well sheathed and drywalled wall will not sag much, but eventually it will with snow, wind and gravity pressure. All exterior walls are considered load bearing.
Would you have a recommendation on minimum beam size for the 15 foot span? I appreciate your assistance. It didn't make any sense that it would not have a load on it and I will construct foundation supports under it as well.
At 15’ span you are outside of allowable span for conventional lumber, at least according to IRC. You will have to consult with an engineer. Or you can go to your local supplier and they should have in house engineer (or they’ll contact their supplier’s in house engineer) that will inform you of the recommended size/type of beam. They will need the info you provided of 15’ free span, building dimension of 30’ and that it is carrying the load of gable end and roof only. Typical gable end trusses distribute their load to the wall below. If for some reason a gable truss (not gable end truss) was used on the gable end, the bearing points will be on the end walls and gable wall is just acting as a nailing surface for exterior wall. If you have this condition (which is highly unlikely) the weight of the wall only is bearing on the header which is minimal. Standard lumber could be used for this, but again need to consult with an engineer for specifics.
I have attached a picture of the second story gable. The thing that has me so confused is the fact that before I removed this wall, it wasn't even sitting on a joist. There is no foundation beneath it and it was simply sitting on plywood between 2 joists for over 30 years without any sag....
The sheathing is locking the assembly into something like a beam, or it's a truss wall to begin with. That's not to say that support isn't necessary though - It's just that the loads from gable walls aren't that great unless they're carrying a ridge beam. The easiest way to get a beam sized is to go to a lumberyard that sells engineered wood. The engineered wood manufacturer will size a beam for your needs, usually for free. The FHB podcast talks about this a little here: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2016/09/02/episode-eleven-floor-leveling-crawlspaces-structural-beams
Thanks for the link! I have listened to it and it does have some good info. We are currently dealing with spray foam as well, so it was nice to hear some additional input.
Have you checked out the podcast? That's a lot more free range, but it's fun.
My advice is to stop and go get a permit which would require a engineer's drawing/approval. Of course, you may face a fine for not getting a permit before you removed the wall. In my area removal of ANY wall requires a permit. That the wall above did not immediately sag means nothing as it
can take years. Go get that permit now