Replies

1. 
   Lunicy | Nov 16, 2003 04:47pm | #1

   The first time you screw up a $300.00 plus door you will wish you had one. Besides, it's easy to set up. And specialized tools make you look real professional to the customer.

   Can't I go 1 day without spilling my coffee?

1. 
   MisterT | Nov 16, 2003 05:09pm | #2

   There are other brands (templaco, kwikset and others) that are better tools than the PC (Plastic Crap)

   If you plan on using it a lot it will be a wise investment to spend the extra $$

   If the search funtion is working, there was at least one discussion about this subject here in the last year or so.Mr T

   Do not try this at home!

   I am an Experienced Professional!

1. 
   SunnySlopes | Nov 16, 2003 05:25pm | #3

   I have the "Templaco"   and it's worth the money.  Very accurate, makes clean holes, easy to set up (very easy).   A very well made tool for the  professional.  Not that I'm a professional though. :-)

   http://www.templaco.com/html/content.asp"One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions"

2. 
   kostello | Nov 16, 2003 08:05pm | #6

   'And specialized tools make you look real professional to the customer.'

    

   yeah if in any doubt about my customers trust in my ability i get all the tools off the van and spread them out everywhere. it really makes you look like you know what you're doing. after all i must be really good to need all those tools!!!!!

   aleks

2. 
   wrick2003 | Nov 16, 2003 06:05pm | #4

        The "professional" lock boring tool is awesome, and looks professional, but if you really wanted to, you could make a plywood jig that goes over the edge of the door that has the proper backsets.

        Mine is an 8 x 12 piece of 1/2" plywd. Two- 2 1/8" holes are drilled into it. One hole is 2 3/8" from the edge, and the other is 2 3/4". The holes are crossmarked on the edges like a rifle sight. Whenever I need to make a new hole, or enlarge an old 1  1/2" hole, I just clamp the jig where it needs to go and drill away.

        The hole for the bolt is always eyeballed.

        It cost nothing to make, and I have used this jig for several years.

        rg 

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 16, 2003 07:14pm | #5

   I have the templaco also its a well made tool. I bought the kit which comes with all the templates. I highly recommend it.  It aient cheap but It will last a life time  

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

3. 
   Boxduh | Nov 16, 2003 09:23pm | #7

   How many full-mortise entry locks have you done?  Or are we just talking about 2-1/8" diameter crossbores and 1" diameter edge bores?

   I would agree that for general work prepping for tubular, non-mortise locks, you can make very functional templates that can be used with a big plunge router or drill.  Your boss might be more impressed by your ingenuity in making and using a good template set, than in buying a rig.

   But if you're spending a half day every few weeks hogging out big expensive doors for full mortise entry hardware, you either need the $1000 PC rig, or your boss needs to start ordering his doors more carefully, prepped by the suppliers.

4. 
   DavidxDoud | Nov 16, 2003 10:52pm | #8

   check out the 'what tool did you buy...' discussion @ 20001.450  discussion about the 'kwikset' - -

5. 
   Turtleneck | Nov 17, 2003 01:12am | #9

   The problem with the hinge boring jigs is the fact that they get dull so quickly. I've seen guys switch the standard bit to one with carbide and they still don't last too long. There is nothing really wrong with a hinge boring jig if you hang the odd door here and there but when you start doing upwards of 30 doors a month every month you begin to see its limitations.

   I've been drilling out doors with a 2 1/8" bi-metal hole saw and a 1" Forstner bit for alot of years now and I've never ruined a door. I replaced the Â¼" pilot bit in the hole saw with a brad point bit to stop any wander. I  drill from one side and then finish the hole from the other side so there is no blow-out which is pretty common with a dull boring jig.

    Turtleneck

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 17, 2003 04:25am | #10

   I take mine in and get it sharpened every now and then. It only cost about 5 bucks a bit and ol'manny (the guy who owns La Mirada Tools does one heck of a job. He sharpens everything in house including router bits and dado cutters and regular saw blades. 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

1. 
   Turtleneck | Nov 18, 2003 05:17am | #11

   The standard boring bits in a lock jig are essentially 2 1/8" saw tooth Forstener bits. I used to touch up mine with a file now and then and it would work great for another dozen doors.  I started to have problems with the jig when I began to do finish work full time and was machining a couple of dozen doors every week.

   There had to be a better way. I had a couple of carbide bits made and was suprised how quickly they dulled cutting the pressboard panel doors that are so common in new construction here. I ran into another finisher using a hole saw and liked it. Why remove all of that material with a Forstener bit when you can just cut around it with a hole saw? The bi-metal hole saw I'm using now has been going strong for a year and a half. Might be time for a new one...in case you were wondering what to get me for Xmas. Turtleneck

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 18, 2003 06:14am | #13

   Yea that press wood does do a number on tools.  I dont hang all that many doors but I can see your point if I were hanging a lot of them Id have to do something. 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

2. 
   PhillGiles | Nov 18, 2003 05:25pm | #16

   Consider replacing the pilot bit with a piece of drill-rod the same size with the shoulders rounded over - then pre-drill the pilot hole to make sure it's right.

   You can touch up a saw-tooth with a ceramic hone.

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   Turtleneck | Nov 19, 2003 05:46am | #17

   "Consider replacing the pilot bit with a piece of drill-rod the same size with the shoulders rounded over - then pre-drill the pilot hole to make sure it's right."

   The technique you are describing works very well when using a hole saw on metal, The pilot bit has a tendancy to wander and is hard to place on a mark because of all that slightly unbalanced metal spinning around.

   When drilling wooden doors with a hole saw I replace the HHS pilot bit with a brad point bit to keep it on the mark. The hole saw is pretty easy to line up, if all of the teeth are cutting at first bite you're shooting straight.    Turtleneck

6. 
   Clay | Nov 18, 2003 05:59am | #12

   I guess it depends on what you mean by "I do a lot of doors" ... if you mean 20 doors a year I would say no way.  If you hang twenty doors a week then I would say go for it.  I have hung a couple of thousand during my career with a holesaw and a spade bit.  I mark out the centers and then eyeball the alignments.  I can't recall ever having a serious problem caused by misdrilling.  The fancy jobs where you put in those #@***!!! Baldwin locksets or one of the REALLY EXPENSIVE mortised locksets are mostly handwork with chisels after drilling a few more or less normal holes.  No jig is going to help much with them.  What WILL help you a lot if you take time to make them is a set of padded door stands.

1. 
   Turtleneck | Nov 18, 2003 07:05am | #14

   What WILL help you a lot if you take time to make them is a set of padded door stands.

   The stand I use is a slot  made of a couple of 2X4s screwed to the floor with a strip of carpet stapled to the inside. Are you talking about something a little more extensive??? Turtleneck

1. 
   Clay | Nov 18, 2003 08:35am | #15

   I was thinking more along the lines of the type that have a stand (usually 2x6) attached so that they can be set up on site ... preferably near the doorway where you're working.  Usually they are designed with a triangular brace on each side so that they extend a foot or more up the door faces and offer pretty stable support.  When I am working without a stand (often because of space limitations in the truck) I hang the door before drilling and use the hinges to hold it for me.  Four simple wooden triangles with carpeting on one leg each and two 2x6's about 48 inches long will do it ... just screw the triangles to the upper face of the 2x6's at such a spacing as to hold the door snugly.  It's not a bad idea to attach a couple of blocks to the bottom ends of the 2x6's ... then when the door is set into the clamps it's weight bows the 2x6's slightly tightening the uprights toward the door faces.