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Eric
Have you ever seen Hillbilly board and batten? Useing a bandsaw mill slice a peeled log into 5/4 leaving all of the outer edge. Strap and nail verticly,putting the thinner boards against the wall and the wider ones as battens.
A false chinked wall, with the boards horizontal takes logs as long as your wall to get the right effect, but if you pick your boards right you can splice them so as not to notice, Then there’s the chinking job to do.
Then there’s the inside, a few timbers or joists, a couple posts, and a lot more wood.
I hollowed 51/2″ out of a 10″ log to cap a glulam post with a chainsaw and chisel. Even a rabit to cap a wall end can add a lot.
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A builder has just brought me a conventionaly frame home that the owner wants to make look like a log cabin... need vendor for log cabin siding...
Eric
*Eric you can try 4 season log homes and ask for their timber logs. They are located in Parry Sound Ontario but they ship worldwide.Tel: (705)342-5211The log is 1 5/8 inches thick and 11 inch high. Knotty pine , kiln dried and top quality.Various lengths to standard 16-0 feet.Good luck.
*We have one here in NM. Basically they take 2x6 or 2x8's and run them through a shaper. Several styles to chose from. you should be able to find a mill in your area. Preferred builders in Albuquerque does a great job on this style of house. They butt the siding into 2x4 vertical corners and window trim. As an aside, they use a ring shank stainless steel finish type nail and hand nail the siding. Apparently the result of previous bad experiences. I'm about to do a similar house this summer.
*I know this isn't what you're looking for, but a friend of mine went to a sawmill and picked up a huge bundle of slabwood, which is the first cut they take squaring up the log, has the bark on it, and he nailed this stuff all over his house. I thought he was nuts, but when he was done it sure looked like a log house, and it was free. Good for any back-to-the-landers out there who are real down-to-earth living cheap, not for trust fund babies.
*Eric what part of the country are you in ? We buy logs ( actually milled timbers ) and matching log siding from Satterwhites in Longview TX and Mountain Valley Lumber in Saguace (sp. ? ) CO.Its a shiplap siding about 1 3/4'' thick with the same exterior profile as the logs , a gentle radius . I can find the phone # ,address If your interested . email me . Chuck
*Eric Have you ever seen Hillbilly board and batten? Useing a bandsaw mill slice a peeled log into 5/4 leaving all of the outer edge. Strap and nail verticly,putting the thinner boards against the wall and the wider ones as battens. A false chinked wall, with the boards horizontal takes logs as long as your wall to get the right effect, but if you pick your boards right you can splice them so as not to notice, Then there's the chinking job to do. Then there's the inside, a few timbers or joists, a couple posts, and a lot more wood. I hollowed 51/2" out of a 10" log to cap a glulam post with a chainsaw and chisel. Even a rabit to cap a wall end can add a lot.
*What style of log home do the owners wish to imitate? Do they like round or flat? Wide or not so wide? Do they go for the traditional cabin style intersecting corners? Do they have a big budget or a little one?I find that the cheapest stuff comes from the local sawmill. Around here (I buy mine at Mtn. Valley also in Saguache, CO.) the local wood of choice is Engleman Spruce. I would imagine almost any local species of softwood would do as long as you treat it really well all sides before installation. They used to just about give away the s3s stock until they found out people were using it to make their houses worth something and now it costs (.65/bd ft.). The detail used with this is to stack the s3s and nail into all studs available. Either 2x RS or s3s used for corner coins and window trim. Do yourself a favor and take off the bark though to prevent insect infestation. Check out your local mill to get this detail.The s3s look has been usurped here by the 1x12 rough sawn boards that have edges eased by different methods and put up horizontally with chink space between. Easy to put up and covers fast. Looks good with 2x RS corners and trim applied first and butted to. Cost to chink has to be figured and this style costs a little more than the s3s. There are currently 5 houses going on around me that are using this! I have seen this style also being used by the bourgeois builders in 2x12 Cedar which is a waste of wood as far as I am concerned. Also more $ to chink as you need to use backerrod.There are a few companies that advertise in the back of the Log Home rags that make what they call 1/2 log siding. They even make full corners that taper back to 1/2 that look like the real deal. I found this stuff to be nice but expensive unless you live within 100 miles of the manufacturer due to shipping.Whatever you do make sure the wood is as dry as possible before you put it up to prevent shrinkage and lots of Big Stretch later. I also prefer to use an asphalt impregnated fiber board as the moisture barrier with faux laug siding just in case---- Also I use screws to secure all RS used outside. Home Depot stocks screws that are kind of brown that hide well and there is less problem with delamination.As an aside I also use Structural Insulated Panels that have 2x's on 24" centers instead of stick framing as a base. The 24" centers give plenty of nailing opportunities and I have the system figured out pretty well so I make more money using it than conventional. The owners like the increased energy performance also.
*thanks to all willing to help... i did a web search and found 3 vendors in michigan/minn with a log siding... like the one that has a ship lap with a space left between the 'logs' for the chinking.. as i get closer to actually ordering the material, i will post again for your input....Eric