Replies

1. 
   calvin | Mar 01, 2009 01:27am | #1

   A small chain saw.  Electric for lack o'fumes.  Drill 2 holes in the bar.  Screw on a "guide" to one side of the bar.  That guide will run on the floor, keeping the top of the cut where you want it.  Lower the guide a bit to clean out more.  More than likely you'll have to clean up the bottom with a good sharp chisel.

   I assume an undercut saw wouldn't work due to curve of log.  If it would work, use that.

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1. 
   ronbudgell | Mar 01, 2009 02:25am | #2

   calvin

   You could remove part of the baseplate of a circular saw and run it on its side or run the flooring straight and fill the gaps with pieces and tile grout. That would be my preference.

   Carving isn't hard. You clamp your workpiece onto a sawhorse and cut away with a circular saw.

   Ron

2. 
   cut50 | Mar 01, 2009 02:29am | #3

   There is a saw call a zero clearance jamb saw, at least that`s what we call it, have used it for the same job. Rental shop may have one. Real it`s a grinder with a saw blade and a nice ajustable guide, I know sounds scary, but it`s not. For the flooring butting into logs, back cutting the underside of the flooring works well.

3. 
   MGMaxwell | Mar 01, 2009 03:11am | #4

   How about the chain saw on a wheel for an angle grinder. Lee Valley sells them. I think they are called Lancelot. Comes in a 14 and 20 tooth variety. You want the 14 tooth. They chew up wood and potentially flesh rapidly. Sounds like the right tool for removing lots of wood in a hurry close to the floor

4. 
   Sphere | Mar 01, 2009 03:44am | #5

   4, that sound like they don't live in a log home...I do. Scribe the floor to the wall as close as you can. Thats it. Stuff moves, let it.

   Add a shoe above and don't nail it to the floor, if you really want a finished look..in..a log...home.

   It's a log home right? Gaps are character.

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1. 
   jwcamelshump | Mar 01, 2009 06:07pm | #6

   It is probably me more than the clients wanting to get the floor tight. The logs really are rough and vary quite a bit over the course of a foot or two. I do like the idea of getting close and then using a low profile molding. I can imagine scribing the butt ends to get them close but  how to get the long side of the flooring close is a bit tricky. In a couple of places there is a two to three inch change within a foot or two. I guess that is why the carpet was nice.  These folks are open to baseboard, but it seems like I have the same problem with really uneven logs that need to be plumbed up or the baseboard would be 2" off the wall in places. I'll try to get some pics. thanks.

1. 
   ronbudgell | Mar 01, 2009 11:26pm | #7

   Scribe it and fit it to the logs. It's easier than you think.

   Ron

2. 
   observer | Mar 02, 2009 01:22am | #8

   Think it through a little further.When the floor runs parallel to the wall you'll have no trouble tucking the first course in your relief but how are you going to get the last course tucked under to close the floor when you've got up to 2 or 3 inches variance in the wall? It'll cost you more than a few hours to sort it out.Scribe it to allow an 1/8" or so gap. That allows a bit of fudge so your scribe need not be perfect. The small reveal is visually acceptable if it looks 'even'. Back-beveling the scribe makes it easy to tune it to make it look even.