I got a call the other day from a regular customer, he has some extensive water damage on one corner of his log home. See attached pictures.
The damage is on the first floor, basement underneath and 2nd floor above.
I have made some calls to track down the logs, some are as large as 22″ in diameter.
If interested reply here, the home is in Gull Lake area. Or anyone want to refer me to someone they feel comfortable with.
Matt
Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Matt:
I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for, but I've done some historic preservation work and live in Southeastern Michigan.
Kowboy
[email protected]
This is a log cabin that needs most of the corner rebuilt logs removed and replaced with new.
Extensive water damage has destroyed alot of the logs.
The corner is going to have to be supported, shouldn't be too awfully hard the existing logs taper back to the corner of the house. I thought we could brace from the first good one we felt comfortable with and jack away.
We are looking at some logs from Canada, we'll get those tracked down in the next few days hopefully.
If you are interested and comfortable with this let me know. I can have help on the job if need be, Me and a few other guys that are not log home builders.
Matt
Do us a favor and keep posting the repairs. Replacing a log like you got to do is something we want to watch.
You shoulda been here then.........
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What advice or tips do you have? I need as much help as I can get.
What tools did you use to get the flats on the sides of the logs? An adze? I'm getting just plain logs so I have to mill them to fit.
I'm not sure if my head cutter is going to be a good tool for the job or not.
Be sure to explain SLOWLY I haven't tackled anything like this before.
Matt
First, build a tempwall obviously.
Now , I had old logs that were salvaged from other parts of the house. BUT, if I were you. I'd snap chalk lines on the log to represent the "flat" ( lay this out from on the endgrain so you can see where to snap the lines FROM.and TO)
Take a chainsaw or a circ saw and kerf cross the log from line to line and bust out the hunks inbetween, now you have an ragged but flatish face. I doubt you have an adze, or know the proper use ( no offense) but I do have one and have done it that way.
You may wnat to use a slick to get closer to true, or a power plane..rent a 6'' or 12" handheld, Makita makes the biggun.
Scribeing is a whole nuther chapter, I have log scribes if ya need to borrow them, basically big dividers, with 2 bubble levels built in. Lee Valley I think has them, about 40 bucks..get the INK pencils TOO, they are handy .
You need a good SHARP axe, and a hewing hatchett, I also have one of those, and I have log gouges for the copes and a chainsaw disc for the grinder.
Try to copy what ya see they did before, and NEVER cope the top of the lower log, make a saddle cope on the bottom of the upper one.
Sitka -flex caulk is OK, don't be afraid to use it.
Anything I can help with just ask......
Here...cut all the red lines.
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Great tool list and diagram, I think I understand how the flats are made.
That picture is worth a thousand words.
You are also correct in your assumption about my adze technique, I used one as a kid (probably 10 or so) and took it off my shin. Bled for days man.
Matt
They don't call them a "foot adze" for nothing.
The edge should just stop travel under your toes, and the Chip is what keeps the edge from cutting your boot toe.
IF the edge picks up a chip and you see it on the blade, on the backswing, get that sucker off..cuz the NEXT swipe will SKIP, and get ya in the ankle .
With practice it goes pretty fast, choose the log wisely. Crown it, support it well, read the twist, knots. Work from butt to top, not top back. Hewing is a sideways slice with a broad hatchett or axe..they have lefts and rights all mine are for a righty..IIRC you are lefty no?
I am a righty.
After I snap the lines and crosscut with a circular saw use the adze to rough out the flat right? I stand on the log and swing perpindular to the log, at least thats the way I was learned.
Then use the planer to makes it pretty.
Any advice for removing the old logs, I have to get back to where they are still good and plunge cut with a chainsaw correct? Plunge in square, or scarf?
This is going to be an expensive tool binge here, but the HO doesn't have alot of options, 3 guys have looked at it and walked.
Matt
I'd chainsaw the chunks not circsaw. And felling axe out the big hunks ( yes roll the log like the picture I drew) downswing, then roll it face up for the adze..the adze is finishing cut, not for hogging.
I dunno how youd get a decent scarf without the 3rd plane ( in, out, and UP) open. So, I'd prbly not, plus the logs are not gonna mate well either way..thats the way it goes.
Maybe stair step the cuts of bad stuff..sill log cut off say 3', log 1, cut off 5', log 2, 7' and so forth..then the top is open for spikeing down to the new work as you go up working in the corner weave.
I'll have to look back at the pics..how much chinking space there is/was..that has to be figgured in also.
I wish I could get up there..when ya doin this?
Sheduled for October-November maybe. I think we are going to stay in the lodge and work on it during the day, morning and night Whitetail deer hunting, over 200 acres for us to play on.
Matt
I'm green with envy.
Is a .223 legal for deer in Mich? (G)
Farther north rifles are allowed, but in this area only bows and shotguns.
Matt
I don't know if these articles are included on the FHB CD, but in the early days there were some interesting log building articles. At least I am assuming they were published in the magazine, but I found them in one of their old books; "FHB Construction Techniques"
Raising Heavy Timber by Trey Loy
Appalachian Axman's Art by Drew Langsner
Round log Construction by Alasdair GB Walace
Log Building To Last by Walace
An Alaskan Retreat by David K Ford (chainsaw milling logs)
Good Luck with it,
Bowz
Do you think a band saw mill would work if you had a lot of logs to do?
If you cut them to fit and then score them with a sharp axe?
Fer sure, that is one way the log home manufacturers do it.
Then they have a hewing shed where one guy whacks tool marks in logs all day.
I got to stomp around the log yard at Jim Barna Log Systems in Tn. a few yrs ago..cool place. He sells nationwide thru distributers/contractors. I built a staircase out of logs for one of his high dollar clients.
Just wondering, I have built a few Satterwhite Log houses but nothing like that.
I once deconstructed an old fallen down one and made it into siding with a band saw mill for a customer for his old country store.
Turned out good
I just saw a mini mill type deal for a chainsaw.
You nail a 2x4 on to the log and it follows that to cut a straight line on a round log.
Any experience with one of these? Sounds pretty slick.
Matt
Alaskan sawmill? Yup. I have one somewhere..never had a saw with enough guts to really get it going...ya need a good rip chain and at least a 20'' bar.
Good option, the vibration will get ya numb in no time, have a helper take over when ya can't feel your arms..LOL.
I'll look into the sawmill, I think it's only $100.
I have a bug Husky that I think can tear up some logs. It put a gift shop on a huge stack of Yellow Pine 2x10's.
Matt
Count me in.
Kowboy
Rock on man, I'll send you an email either tonight or tommorrow with some contact info.
Matt