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This compact detatched accessory dwelling has an efficient layout with a vaulted ceiling that enhances the sense of space.
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TC
The rail looks good. You already have a finish on it? Looks like it.
Doug
It took me 3 times longer to do this compared to a standard rail so the painters were chomping at the bit to get going. They put a coat on the day I left.
did you fabricate the pieces yourself, or were they supplied? If they were supplied, who was the manufacturer? I love the rustic look! what style of house? location or area?
The material came as logs that the customer bought in the Aderondacks and sanded to his liking. Used a Veritis 2" tenoning bit for the rails and balusters. The logs are cedar, it is the most solid rail I have ever installed.
TC,
Very nice, how long did it take? Would like to see more pics of the rest of the house.TCW Specialists in Custom Remodeling.
When I go back for the finish it will be painted and I will take more pictures. By the way the big opening under the stairs will be a fish tank. To the left of the stone work will be the wood pile with a deer head above - the owner is a big outdoors guy.
First you've done? The job must not be in the Adirondacks, as every second house here has log and twig balustrades.
Nice work! This your first time working with the Veritas cutters?
Gene, Thia house is about 5 hours west of Adirondacks. First time with the tenon cutters, but would do it again. After getting the hang of it it became simple with two people doing it. This balustrade took me three times the normal time - 9 days - OUCH. I am curious on the time other people take to do this type of rail. I have attached photos of the same floor plan where I did the balustrade in three days - the floor plan is flipped though.
Very nice work! I love both looks.
Beautiful job!
What did you use for a drill to drive the 2" Veritis and how fast was it turning?
Did you use a jig or eyeball the drilling?
Fred,We eyeballed the tenoning bit and it worked fine. Being precise was something I had to let go of in this project - I was more concerned with what "looked right". The instructions with the bit said to run it slow but we never got the hang of it that way - it was always grabbing the log and jambing so we used a Bosch hammer drill because it had the speed, 1/2" chuck, and higher amp moter. We ran slow till it set on the log and ran it to full speed.
Gosh!, I"m impresswed with your first job!! I have done many projects like this. When I am asked to do this I always look around the property for trees that could be used. It ties the client to ther land. and gives then a sense of unity with their land, Very nice first go, Chuck Keller
Chuck,Thanks, it was the most stressfull task I have done in a long time because I did not have any referance and was worried that I would miss something - which is probably why it took me so long to complete. There were 10 posts, 36 feet of rail, and 61 balusters. Do you have a guess on a reasonable time frame to complete? If I do this again I think I will charge 2 1/2 times what I normally charge for a standard rail - does that sound about right?
Looks like you can charge whatever you want. I'm impressed.I've seen the Veritas stuff in some catalogs. Curious about how you drill the rake handrail holes into the newels, and the baluster holes into the rails and sub rails. Plus, it seems like everything got to be assembled in units...I'm betting it takes more than a little coordination.Can't say I care much for the look (especially with painted skirts), but I sure like your craftsmanship.Got any in progess pics? Don't worry, we can fix that later!
Billy,No in progress pictures. Yes it was done in units.I set the posts with a couple screws - no levels, just eyed up to vertical lines in the house. Cut and drilled the rails. Measured the balusters and tenoned them. Took the posts and rails apart and fitted the balusters. then put the posts back in as I inserted the rails, the rails are mortised 3-3 1/2" and the balusterd are mortised 2-2 1/2".To drill the rake motises for the posts I used a string line for the angle , staterd it with a hole saw with a longer center bit, chiseled out the peices and finished with a forstner bit. Used a level to lay out the balusters. Put similar thickness balusters together, averaged the thickness and did the layouts according to the average thickness of each units balusters. Used two people to help me line up the drill on all cases - the deep mortises make straight drilling important, but a few balusters were tapered at the ends to allow them to line up.I agree with not liking the painted capping and facia, was hoping someone would have a better idea for the next time.
Edited 5/12/2005 9:39 am ET by Trim Carp
There are not many people who will tackel this type of work. I charge by the hour and explain that its hard to estimate. If your reputation is intact you won't have problems with a client thinking you'll drag it out. On a different note, I did a log project on, Marthas Vinyard. The client had a nice, warm boiler room in the basement. I set the fresh, cut logs in there and dramatically reduced drying time. Best wishes, Chuck Keller
A couple pictures of the rail completed.