*
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

Dangerous electrical work and widespread misconceptions cause fires, deaths, and $1.5 billion in property damage annually.
Highlights
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
*
I am going to build a house with conventional framing, 7/16" OSB sheathing and log siding. The siding is made from 2x8's run through a shaper. In reading other articles I have concerns about moisture getting behind it even here in the dry SW. Should it be sealed both sides. Leave an air gap, etc. Any sources of literature would be helpful. Thanks.
*Leo, One thing that might help is to use an Asphalt impregnated fiber board under your siding. I do this with the 1x12 horizontal rough sawn I use and it works as both a moisture deterent if any does get behind and a thermal break between your studs and the outside. If your siding is going to be tight fit it would also help to bevel the edges to drain the water away from the joint and at the same time allowing for some shrinkage. If you are going to leave chink gap between you will need to use a backer rod before chinking. Caulk all verticle joints at windows and corners after shrinkage has occured.