Here’s what I have a question on. I’m building a 20 x 12 deck. It’s only a 2×12 high. The customer wants to have one long step along two sides. The two sides have a 2×12, so I’m going to just build a box with 2×6’s and nail it to the 2×12. What ways have you anchored the out side edge? I thought about putting some holes in and using concrete but how far can I get away with spacing them? Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks
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I usually land my deck stairs on a concrete pad, but I can understand why you might not want to do 24 feet of that. Concrete footings and posts in the ground sounds like a good choice. They should go as deep as any foundation should be in your area (48" here in Mass.). As for spacing, check your floor joist span table. I would guess about 5 feet. Encourage them to create a flat, level area on the ground to step on once they leave your step.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
They should go as deep as any foundation should be in your area (48" here in Mass.).
Al, I gotta disagree with ya on this one... the footings, if any, should be as deep as the footings of the deck, not just any,.
If the deck is floating so shoud the steps.
SamT
"Law reflects, but in no sense determines the moral worth of a society.... The better the society, the less law there will be. In Heaven, there will be no law, and the lion will lie down with the lamb.... The worse the society, the more law there will be. In Hell, there will be nothing but law, and due process will be meticulously observed."
Grant Gilmore, The Ages of American Law (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1977), pp. 110-111.From 32866.117
I wouldn't disagree with you on that, but 'floating' wouldn't 'fly' with the inspectors around here. They want to see 48" holes.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Al, just curious, would you have a problem with just "floating the steps" yes-no. Also would you have a problem with building a floating deck, yes -no, circle one, in black ink. For here in central, Arizona, 14" is all a person needs for frost/depth. It used to be 18", I'am not certain who was behind the change, for it sure wasn't Mom Nature. Jim J
I used to live around Cave Creek and New River - when it was still "out in the desert". Built several decks there on those prepoured concrete blocks with the 4x4 bracket on the top. Didn't see any problems with that in your area, but you could always shim if you had to later.
BTY I also found that every kind of rat, snake, mouse, spider and scorpion loved the space under a deck built in that area! I'd rather pack gravel with a jumping jack all day in the heat and pour a patio on it, than to build poison critter habitat at my door step.Any jackass can kick down a barn, but it takes a carpenter to build one.
Guys, frost depth here in ks is 16". I'm trying to avoid any more digging. I'm over budget and going to be in over time here soon. I'm trying to keep it from becoming a horror story. I was out there working yesterday and came up with the idea of just driving treated 2x2 stakes every 32" into the ground 24 " deep, then screwing the rim joist to the stakes. And just to add fun to the situation, it's been so dry here that to either dig a hole or drive a stake, I'll have to use a Ross deep root feeder to soak the ground before doing either one. What do you think of this idea or do you have any others?
And here thought I was somebody, digging lots of 24" deep hole's, but digging 48" holes, hmmm. I might want to change my technique, if I had to go 48". Though, I've always enjoyed dirt work, seems like nobody ever bother's a person, when their moving any kind of dirt. Hasben, then I suppose you had traveled up to Prescott, now and again??, I live in Groom Creek area, and just last night seen a rather large trantula, cute thing I thought. be safe Jim J
In my area (Mass.), a floating deck would have two problems: One, the building inspectors would not sign off on it. (This is the cradle of liberty, remember. Can't do anything without approval.) Two, I've seen a number of decks ruined by frost heaving of footings poured near the surface. Winter is serious business around here. That's why we're all moving to Arizona.
In this particular case, since it's only one step, attaching it securely to the deck and letting it float on a gravel bed would probably be fine.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Al, thank you for the info. Seems like the bigger the consequences, the more attention, most people, focus on doing it right. 48", I know my 37lb. jack hammer is not that long, but I do have it marked at 18" and 24", sweet tool for punching some holes, in granite, clay, or if I have a bunch if holes, I'll just start on one, then another and then another, I sure you know the routine, it's called work. Be safe Jim J
On second thought...(That's what showers are for, right?)...You could double-up your 2x6 to make a beam. Fasten it to your 4x4 posts with big (1/2') galvanized bolts. That way you could easily span a 12' side with three posts: one in the middle and one on each end.
As with any steps, make sure both your rises are equal.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
What I usually do is make a hinge point attachement to deck and float over 12" of crushed or washed stone, but for this one as you describe, I might look at cantilevering the 2x6 out fron the 2x12 which are already supported on a foundation.
Excellence is its own reward!
we ran the beams out to form the first step.. and built the deck on the beams.. spaced the beams so our decking only needed 2x8.. and the beams were built-up 2x8.. worked pretty good..
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,
Do you always butt the floor joist into eachother and nail a block along side them where the arrows are that I put in your picture? Just curiuos.
Joe Carola
no, joe... not always.. but in this case we wanted the SS. screw heads to line up exactly all the way across the deck...Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,
From what I've seen of you posting pictures of your work, I knew that's what you were going to say, that's why that deck looks as good as it is does. Nice work Mike.
Joe Carola