looking for Hardiepanel installation tip
born2hammer
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’m getting ready to install 4×8 and 4×10 Hardiepanel smooth vertical siding over some aged painted smooth plywood siding. I’ve installed Hardiepanel once in new construction, and placed doubled studs where vertical joints would fall. I will be using a pneumatic nailer to set the nails flush. This is two story construction. Anybody have any installation tips for someone who is not a newbie to construction of all types, but who has used Hardiepanel rarely?
Oops – looks like this belongs in the construction techniques section – my mistake.
Edited 8/10/2008 5:28 pm ET by born2hammer
Replies
I noticed you got no replies. Have you proceeded and can you pass on any information?
Hi yojimbo -
No replies. I will be proceeding next week or the week after. My main issue will be making sure edges align with centers of studs (which are of course buried under the existing siding). It will be impossible to know without exploratory drilling whether the current vertical panel joints are centered on the studs or shifted some to right or left of center. Hardie wants edge nails to be 3/8" in from the edges and not angled toward a stud's center. and not sunk at an angle below the panel surface. This could be a pain even with the new construction application I did once.
Oh well. so what else is new?
The other issue is that since this a retrofit, the electrical and plumbing are already in the wall.
The probability that you will hit a wire is existant, and there is not much you can do to avoid it.
May I inquire as to why you are undertaking this since you already have existing siding on the house?
Thanks yojimbo2 and Cargin,
These folks have old smooth panels of doug fir (painted) that are very worn out on the southern and western exposures. They are assuming that the best approach is to just overlay the old siding with the new Hardiepanel. Maybe that's not the best approach, it will change reveals on windows, doors, depth to rough in boxes, etc. But all those issues can be dealt with. Sure, electrical might be close to the surface (an unknown), but one would hope not.
I've used pneumatic nailing before on Hardie panel and just backed off enough on the pressure so that the last 1/4" or so gets handnailed flush. I got tired of bending nails by hand, sending nails flying, predrilling for nails, etc.
I like the durability of the product, but it is not a joy to work with.
born2
I would be scared to use an air nailer.
We have always used 5d to 8d hand driven nails so we could set the nail flush.
Size of nail depends on the substate.
We have caulked the joint and then squish them together. Then follow up with surface caulking.
Rich