Putting up 1/2 lite-weight drywall in my finished attic. I use osi f38 drywall adhesive and screws. I do my best to set the screws evenly and just below the surface with a slight dimple. Doing this nights and weekends and I’ve got a lot to do so it’s taking weeks. When I go back to panels I’ve done a while ago, it seems like the screws sit a little higher and I can drive them back in by maybe a quarter turn pretty easily. Can’t tell if the screws backed out on their own or if the adhesive shrunk down and pulled the drywall tighter leaving the screws where they were. Mostly see this on the ceilings but that’s what’s been up longer. Anyone see this before?
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Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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Assuming you're just using an impact driver and not a drywall screw gun get a dimple driver. It will drive them perfectly every time.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-D60498-Drywall-Dimpler-Phillips/dp/B0002EVG0W/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=drywall+screw+dimpler&qid=1621556327&sr=8-1
Thanks for the tip, I ordered one and I'll see how it works out. I've been using a screw gun with a regular bit and going slow. Using an impact driver on drywall screws seems like asking for trouble. Tried the collared drywall bits but they don't inspire much confidence. This thing appears to have a clutch so high hopes. My biggest problem seems to be driving the screws perpendicular to the drywall.
Nomore,
My near 40 yo Milwaukee screw gun was the cats pajamas for hanging board. Excellent easy depth adjustment and a different ergonomic design than you see in a regular driver drill. Your hand road up high on the body and the trigger was actuated with the lower fingers for individual screwing......but for production an easy constant on button. I usually had the pointer finger straight out along the top edge. Where you pointed the gun (finger) was a straight line. The gun actually had a depression on either side that your finger rode on.
Higher rpm than usual screw guns.
Many hangers used a drywall gun from Dewalt. They were one of the first battery power developers.
Milwaukee Magnum Screw Shooter
I tried that dimpler and either I got a bum one or I'm doing something wrong. If I press in hard, it drives the screws too deep (first pic). If I use less pressure, it's better but still looks too deep to me (2nd pic). Am I wrong, is that how it should be? Either way, if I have to be that careful with it, I might as well use a plain phillips bit in my drill.
I. Don’t know what to tell you. I have no problem with my drywall gun. It dives till the cone end on the gun hits the drywall.
With my regular Panasonic drill I can set the clutch according to the density of what I’m screwing into. Hit a softer spot and it over drives the depth, harder spot and it remains proud.
I only use the Panasonic on a couple of sheet jobs. Not saying it’d pay off for you though to get a dedicated drywall gun.
In new wood I have little problem with the Panasonic, old wood maybe a bit. The clutch tells it when to stop either way. Never used a dimpler.
I looks like the bit is protruding too far. The dimpler collar has two positions, one for changing bit and removing screws, and one for normal driving. In the driving position, the head of the screw should be even with the end of the collar, and the screwdriver tip/shaft should not be visible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrdu7g7zvLs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38fwFKZvpFY
Based on the videos, I'm pretty sure I'm using the dimpler correctly. If I use even less pressure, the screw sits above the paper. Then I try to drive it flush and the dimpler way overdrives it. I think the clutch is sticking or something. It's too finnicky; if i have to be that careful, i'll just use a regular bit. I'm a Myron Ferguson fan so this is a bummer but I think mine's no good.
Maybe you aren't pushing the drywall tight to the framing when you're screwing? It's not like wood where you can rely on the screw pulling it tight. You have to push against it with your hand or hip or head while you set the screw.
As to impact drivers, they aren't my go-to drywall tool, but I can set my Makita to its slowest setting and literally control it one impact at a time. That's perfect for setting screws I notice are high when I'm finishing.
I'm with Calvin about the old Milwaukee screw gun and also with Andy about the impact driver not being the go-to tool for drywall - drill driver with a clutch setting is the better choice if a dedicated screw isn't available.
good luck