I have a section of roof that is 2/12. Originally built for tile , this roof has been shingled with your regular cheap three tab shingles and has a history of leaking. I am repairing leak damage to the roof deck, rafters, a beam, and a complex soffit. When that is done I would like to strip the remaining shingles and cover the entire roof first with a layer of snow and ice shield, put down as if it were roll roofing. Then I would like to put modified bitumen on top of that which I believe is like roll roofing that is bituminous and has the usual slate chips on it. Anyone see any problems with this? Is the snow and ice shield going to stick like bubble gum when the roof needs to be striped or altered for a skylight ? Thank you in advance for your time and consideration
Edited: I would strip the shingles and several layers of tar paper as well as two failing valleys.
The roof deck is 1×12 doug fir from 1958
Edited 12/17/2006 5:35 pm ET by Islagrande
Replies
Whats under the old crap? "seek, and ye shall find"
I justtried the same approch ( almost) and my decking was kaput..prepare or the worst, and don't depend on mulitple layers, get a qualifed roofer from your locale to ascertain the situation.
BTW, I am a roofer.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
I have a 2/12 also and I just put down I & W shield, then topped it off with Peel & Roof. This is a self-adhesive product with a granular surface.
Two years ago, I stripped off the asphalt shingles on a 2/12 roof, and installed I&W Shield first over the entire deck. I installed like roll roofing; laid out with half laps. I then reinstalled new fiberglass shingles overtop. I was told the I&W Shield would seal itself around each roofing nail and keep the deck water proof. To date, no leaks and no callbacks...but it's only been 2 years.
On another roof, virtually flat, I installed Kwik Ply...which is a membrane roof. You must strip off everything from the old roof decking. We put down a layer of 3/8 exterior grade plywood overtop to act as a new substrate. Kwik Ply is a 2 part process. First you "mop down" the new substrate with a bitumen adhesive. The adhesive looks very much like motor oil but is more the consistency of kerosene. After mopping down, let this dry ( about 45 minutes to an hour). After dry, the Kwik Ply membrane can be rolled out and installed. It is a peel and stick membrane. Once the membrane comes in contact with the "painted" substrate, it will not move...period!
Special attention and care must be made when rolling out and installing the actual membrane. But, once installed, you are done. Kwik Ply comes in either white or black colors. It used to come in 100 S.F. rolls ( approx. 3ft X 35 FT) and used to cost around $70 per (last year). The house I installed this product on has so far sustained no leaks...it was installed 6 years ago.
Davo
The modified is a toch down product. You could catch the house afire whgile ruining the I&W with the flame.
Just use a peel n stick with granulated surface over the I&W
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EPDM
professionally installed
EPDM is good---but it is not right for all instances--depending on visibility, overhanging tree limbs and expected foot traffic.
also
Peel and stick products will NOT perform well over all icegaurds.
Luckily you don't need to use icegaurd because there is a better material for the purpose.
self adhering base sheet--which installs like icegaurd, but is specifically manufactured for this purpose----to seal to the bare deck AND for the susequent layer to bond to it.
there are quite a few manufacturers with similar products------ but Certainteed makes quite a good system color matched to it's shingles--wide variety of colors.
you can install as a 2ply or 3ply system. 2 layers of basesheet and one layer of cap sheet. you do have to plan a bit to stagger the horizontal laps because you do NOT want the laps of all 3 layers lined up in the same place---it WILL effect drainage.
the system is Flintlastic SA( self adhering)
it is a pretty simple installation--with a few warnings. Be familiar with what you are going to do BEFORE you start. Once you start----it goes fast if you have planned and organized well. Materials do not bond well below mid 40's----andabove about 80 degrees it can be difficult to even get the release sheet OFF the materials.
I usually work alone--so i precut several lengths to rough size on the ground and keep them rolled up in the shade. bring one up cool and install, bring the next one up cool and install and so forth. If you have a helper and have planned things out well you can install faster than your helper can cut and carry each piece,
Immediately throw each release sheet off the roof-- they are insanely slipperry dangerous. once peeled---do NOT let the release sheet come back in contact with the sticky surface or you are well and truly screwed.
stephen
Excellent!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
some modified can be cold applied, Tamko makes one. Over base sheet 45#, it makes a unit when glued.
Thank you for mentioning that the modified bitumen is a torch down product. The Snow and Ice shield will be a smudgy mess in that case. I think I will do Hazlett's idea of Certainteed. I called them and they make the product and their web site instructions show what Hazlett said; that the laps must be jogged off a bit and not occur in the same place. Thank you all for help on this
I see from several previous comments that myu knowledge of some products available is out of date. Just be sure you know what you are getting into BEFORE starting and then follow manufactuirers instructions for a good result. cewrtanteed and Tamko are both good products. Different ones are more available in some regions than in others
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
>>>>>>>>>>>>Different ones are more available in some regions than in othersThat Certainteed Flintastic product is only available here by special order and there's a minimum quantity. I've had it spec'd on several sets of plans but I always have to buy 10 squares to get 4. I won't eat it so it usually winds up getting EPDM.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Halelujah, everybody say cheese
Merry Christmas from the family
Grant & Piffen,
Mulehide and also Polyglass make similar materials-- I actually Started out using Polyglass version called Elastoflex------------- but certainteed flintlastic SA comes in a MUCH better range of colors.
I don't use EPDM nearly as much anymore---------- there is considerable waste factor on smaller residential roofs---and I have enough material tarps, floor mats etc. made out of EPDM-I don't need any more scraps.--- Leftover flintlastic makes dandy valley underlayment Though!
Stephen
LOL, I use Polyglas because that what is most available here. I had a bunch of short end rolls from avoiding exposed mid linelapps on jobs. Last week a roofed an addition that had twelve squares, five valleys, and four sdie wall step flashings and a skylight. I used up almost all my end rools in those valleys for backup liners.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Mulehide and also Polyglass make similar materialsABC carries Mulehide products. I'll look into it. We use our EPDM scraps to dry in box gutter jobs. One of my suppliers will also sell partial rolls (costs a little more, but no leftover scraps).http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Halelujah, everybody say cheese
Merry Christmas from the family
Hey Grant--got a price today for 5" half round gutter foam.
you are gonna want to sit down before you hear this
$30 per 4 ft. section---that's just the effen leaf screen---not even the gutter!!! LOL
'nother guy at the counter said---"$30/section--does it install itself?"
I replied " I don't know if it installs itself-------but I need 180 ft. of it---------at that price it better come with a B.J. included"
a good laugh was had by all------
think I will keep looking.
Stephen
Stephen - what we've been doing is taking the 1" or so thick stuff (I think FlowFree is the brand) that's made to bend across the top of ogee gutter and down the back. I'll have to check the actual size, but I think it's 8" in width for the 5" ogee and 10" for the six. I put it in the stomp shear and cut a width to fit the bottom of the ogee or half round. We cut the 3' length into 1' or so lengths and stick them, spaced, to the bottom of the gutter with a dab lap sealant. We then lay a little wider strip over that, gluing it to the gutter as before. It takes 3 layers to fill half round and four for ogee. The stuff is pricey, but not nearly the price you're quoting.
http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
Halelujah, everybody say cheese
Merry Christmas from the family
Hey. you have email.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Kwik Ply is an EPDM product, but not a torch down. It is still available through Famous Supply (chain stores) . Famous is mostly found in the Midwest States and some Southern areas as well. I believe Kwik Ply is manufactured somewhere in Kansas.
Davo