ran across it at Lowes.
Looks to be good stuff.
was there with a buddy who planned on picking up T-111 to reside his garage … we saw a sample of the “Rustic Barn”, I believe, pattern …
my question.
anyone use this stuff and especially the “rustic barn” siding pattern?
all the info I could find says it comes “preprimed” … but must be finished.
yet … that barn siding in particular … looked great as is …
had a mottled effect … variations in colors / shades.
that’s what drew us both over there in the first place.
my question … is that the primer? or a factory applied finish coat.
if it does need finished … he said he’s just clear coat it …
but the look really has me wondering.
The LP website was no help … so I’m gonna call their 800 number tomorrow.
wondering if anyone’s used this particular product / finish before.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Replies
Jeff,
If it is what I am thinking of (gray or tan/brown finish ?) then the finish is the primer only.
Failure to paint will void the warranty.
You MUST seal all Cut ends, and Exposed ends.
It does hold paint well.
yeah ...
it looks similar to miratec ... so figured the ends / cuts need sealed.
the finish is a mottled grey / brown-ish.
everything I can find says gotta be painted.
Hope a clear coat of some wort will do.
the garage in question is a bodyshop ... so he'll probably just spray what ever we pick.
haven't called the 800# yet ... should get to it Mon Morn.
Thanks,
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff,
On other thing. The stuff is HARD. Best gun nailed.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
My buddy works for Willamette Industries as a chemist. He has worked on the primer that comes on it. I remember him talking about how the primer is formulated so that it won't glue the material together when it comes out of paint at the factory...
Apart from that.
Dunno.
I could ask him for you!
"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."
if ya see him, please do so!
can't get better info than that.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Be very carefull about any LP product. Maybe they have finally hit on a good one, but they have a long history of introducing, then pulling off the market stuff like this once people start to see it failing.
It is their corporate mentality to start, suck profits, dump, and run. They did same with OSB plants and forest harvest methods all over the west. They are NOT responsible corporate citizens so I would not trust them to build a toothpick for me, let alone a piece of panelboard
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i wil second that...
it'll be a good test.
job is for a buddy who just wants something cleaner looking than the wavy vinyl siding already up on the gable. If it's gotta be replaced in a coupla years no big deal ... 6 sheets total.
to keep life simple ... we're even keeping the J channel and tucking the new siding in.
not fine homebuilding by any stretch ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
I put LP T1-11 siding on my barn when I built it a few years ago. It worked fine. It was cheap barnbuilding 101 and I loved it. I put LP lap siding on and "custom" home and it worked fine too. I didn't see any problems anywhere. Of course, it might be because we took the time to do the exterior caulking to manufacturer's (OSI Window nd Door) recomendations AFTER we painted. Over the years, I installed a lot of LP sidings and had lots of experiences with flashings. I remember reading about all the lawsuits but I never saw any problems in the subs we worked. That doesn't mean there weren't problems. There might be undiscovered problems or they might not have occured yet. I think it might have more to do with climate and it might have more to do with the installation details...meaning that if the nails are countersunk the holes will wick water and destroy the sidings. Anyways, we always sought to do our installations that eliminated z flashings if possible. One way we accomplished that was to lap the uppper sidings over the lower siding or brick. We'd typically add a trim board ( we called it a "belt"). I like the look. It would give the belt an extra deep reveal, which is something I always preferred. Some folks wouldn't like the extra deep reveal and we'd butt the trim board. That installation would require a 7/8" z flashing that threw the water over the trim board but there still wasn't any chance at water getting behind the sidings. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Jim the problem is that LP has 3 siding lines,Smartside which is a OSB. I only used about 2 sheets of it about 2 years ago so I don't have much experience. But it has so much resines in it that I don't see how it could ever rot.http://www.lpcorp.com/sidingtrim/lpsmartside/lpsmartside.aspxABT which is a hardboard product.http://www.lpcorp.com/sidingtrim/lpabtsiding/lpabtsiding.aspxAnd CanExelWhich I don't know what it is?.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I only know of the LP products. I don't know of ABT or Canexel.Now that you guys have jogged my memory, it reminded me that LP siding was the reason I went to air equipment. I contracted for a house and it didn't have much brick on it. It had two stories of LP and the superinetendent was an anal ex framer. He specifically instructed us to countersink all the nails and he wanted the nailing done like traditional lap siding. We didn't read up on things back in those days and just did what we were told so when we started the installation of the siding, we found it was very, very difficult to countersink the hand pounded nails. Off to the nail supply store I went and came back with a pancake compressor (Thomas 1 1/2HP) and a Seneco SNII nailer. The setup worked great for setting the nails. The superintendent assured us that all the nails would be filled and painted over and even made us come back and climb ladders and set a few that were flush. Ironically, I came back a year later for some service and none of the nails were filled! I'm sure that LP job has rotted off. Recently we visited a site here in Austin and the framer had installed an entire Hardi job with countersunk face nails. I guess some things never change. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
"I only know of the LP products. I don't know of ABT or Canexel."ABT and CanExel ARE LP products..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Does sound like a good place for a test. Let us know in five years
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I consider it to be a decent economical product. HOWEVER attention must be made to proper installation in regard to flashings , sealant and protection from excess dampness.
I have a customer whose guesthouse was built on piers with treated wood floor joists sitting approx. 8 inches above grade. The smartside rotted out from the BACKSIDE, but only where it was in contact with the treated rim joist. The paint on the surface was still intact. I can only quess that the higher moisture content of the treated lumber contributed to this.
I suspect that the expected lifespan would be close to that of hardboard siding, which can be decent with proper installation.
Edited 2/10/2008 9:05 pm ET by LIVEONSAWDUST
You and Jiom both make that point about sealing, painting and flashings.
But I don't know of ANY building material that doesn't require the same. I can't think of a one I have not used or seen used.
The LP products are just far more intolerant of ANY form of imperfection. They are borderline to begin with is why.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
sounds like you have an axe to grind with LP?I am building a new custom home for myself. I plan on installing 8" lap LP Smartside. The builders up here (wisconsin) that have installed it love it. The key is to install it correctly. Flashing and sealing are a must.
One of the builders took two cutoffs and threw them in a bucket of water for threee weeks. looked liked the day he threw them in when he took them out.
My second choice would be hardiplank or something similar but Smartside is much easier to cut and nail than the cement board.
And as far as their osb..... one of their largest plants is located not too far from here and most houses around here are sheathed with LP osb. Haven't heard any complaints.
OH...one more thing.... Wausau supply will bring a rep to your house if you are installing LP Smartside for the first time. They want to make sure that you are installing it correctly (caulking seams, allowing expansion joints or installing the recommended metal expansion joints), stuff like that so you can maintain the warranty.
Maybe I do have an axe to grind.
I lived right next fdoor to one of their plants in Kremmling Colorado, then moved and lived less than 20 miles away from the one near Delta. I have seen every kind of corporate lie that can be mustered from them. I have heard pletny tales of them jilting customers on bad product. I have seen them spew poison, ruin landscapes and kill a healthy local economy and jobs.
But like I said, maybe they have a good product with this one.
Maybe
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I think ya hit the nail on head...
I'm pretty sure that product was used on Morgan's run (G8's project)...
not impressed...
it's good for LP...
it's good for the immediate bottom line....
but don't know what else...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
for what it's worth ...
I'd use the hardi siding for my own home.
with the right tools it's not hard to cut.
and nail guns make everything easy to nail.
and if the project in question was a long term investment, I'd suggest my buddy be installing hardi panels and plan on a little extra work on my end.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
FWIW, I would install LP siding on my own home rather than Hardi. They both look the same when done to me and the LP comes in longer lengths, thus eliminating more joints. They are both faux sidings so I don't feel either one is superior to the other. Hardi trys to make the case that their cement product will last forever and they may be right, it might last longer if the paint and caulk isn't maintained. Termites might be a deciding factor but if I'm worried about termites, I'd be using ICFs and Stucco anyways. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Jeff,
I am getting ready to do the same project. HD had both the smart side and HardiPanel. After looking at both of them, and thier respective web sites, I am going with the Hardi Panel. There was a broken piece of it that I took home with me. It has been sitting in a glass of water on my desk for close to a month now with no obvious damage, swelling etc. I dont think the LP would survive that treatment. The only thing I dont like about the Hardi is the fact that it is not tongue and groove so you have to be extra careful to seal the joints.
My plan is to get it home and give it one good coat of paint in the garage before I start to put it up. Then a second after installation.
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md