What would the best lubricant be for the rails on my Makita LS1013? Obviously something slick that won’t attract dust, but I recall using silicone spray one time in the past and it interacted with the grease or something and did some scary things to the saw…. it was like it dissolved the grease or something in the part that tilts the cutter head side to side. I just kept working the saw back and forth and it eventually loosened up again, but it was scary there for a minute.
Any suggestions on what the right lube would be? I’d also be curious to hear anyone’s opinion on what may have happened the time I used the silicone as well.
Replies
Use teflon spray, like Boeshield. I dunno what caused the reaction with the factory grease, but silicone has no good uses as far as ai am concerend, except cleaning and rejuvinating rubber mouldings on the trucks doors and such.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
The secret to a long life is knowing when its time to go. M. Shocked
Plain old paste wax works just fine.
furniture paste wax...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I've got a DW 708. Never had a reason to lube the rails? I'm just curious, do you work in some seriously harsh conditions? Why the need for the lube job?
I'm a framer. The saw works outside most of the time on exterior trim and it occasionally will see some rain or snow.View Image
Okay. I knew you were a framer I just didnt think you saw that bad of conditions. Are we talking about rust forming or just uneven pulls through the travel?
No rust. If I'm not mistaken just about all of the exposed metal parts are aluminum. It just gets sticky and not-smooth from time to time as a result of being exposed to the weather.
I'm not following your line of questioning here.... what're you driving at?View Image
Not driving at anything. I just like to hear about problems with tools so I can watch out for problems with my own tools.
I see.
Finish guys are often horrified by some of the issues we framers have with tools. They assume it's a result of neglect or abuse or something when it's really just a matter of the environment we work in.
I remember having to defend why I'd be thrilled to get six months out of a tape measure to someone who spends his life in a cabinet shop and has had the same four tape measure for 10 years. Drag that tape through mud and wet sawdust and walk a mile in my shoes........
I take really good care of my gear.... but mother nature still takes her course.View Image
I know what you mean. Depending on the job I may find myself roughing in a wall or building rasied panel wainscoting with the same tools, so any maintenance issues I can ward off help me keep going.
Do you have one of those work canopies? Ya know, like they use on trading spaces? I bought one a few years ago just to keep my saws out of the rain. I've only had to use it about three times but it dies help to have a little shelter around the site. I think I paid about $200 with sides.
DP.. hard paste wax..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Gonna try the Bostik since I already have some. If that doesn't do the trick I'll look into the wax. Much obliged dude.View Image
that Bostik is a good move.. great stuff..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Parifin. Dust will not attach.
$1.29 in the grocery store.
Same thing your Granma used for canning.
Chuck S.
Edited 1/12/2007 10:12 pm ET by stevent1
I have the same set up and have used the silicone and thought it worked well.
used wd-40 for the miter and it gummed up. now if i could just get the wobble out of the 12"
Mabye try let the silicone dry before using.
Wax, huh? I'm glad I asked, because I never would have thought of that myself. Thanks much.
Boeshield is great protection for storing tools, but messy and a sawdust magnet, wax leaves a build-up...this stuff, Bostik Top Coat is the ticket...http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=826-725 "But to be honest some folks here have been pushing the envelope quite a bit with their unnecessary use if swear words. They just put a character in to replace a letter. But everyone knows what they're saying." Sancho FREE CAROLE
LOL.... sweet.... I have some of that in the trailer that I use for the top of the table saw. You're my new hero. :)View Image
See above post to Holly.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
The secret to a long life is knowing when its time to go. M. Shocked
Thanks H, THAT is the stuff I was thinking of! Sorry DP, he is right, wax gums up when it gets cold.
I leave a HF 10'' slider up on the scaffold for weeks on end, unprotected,,,and for a 99.00$ saw I don't fret too much, but the slides are still fine.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
The secret to a long life is knowing when its time to go. M. Shocked
i would probably use white lightening... a wax lube for mtn bikes. Doesnt allow dirt to cake on the chain (in this case sawdust).
The problem with most silicone sprays are the 'vehicle' that is used to carry the silicone in solution. Silicone itself is non oily, but, often sprays are oil based. That is what attracts dust and grime.
Try to find "food grade" silicone spray. It doesn't have a petroleum base and dries without residue, other than the silicone itself. You can find it at restaurant supply stores or I have found it at upholstery supply shops. Just be careful of overspray. If you get food grade silicone on the floor of your shop you can slip and fall for several days. Believe me, I have ended up on my backside many times after spraying this stuff.
Also, most TEFLON sprays are actually silicone based with TEFLON added, but, are usually oil free as well.
Be careful not to get any silicone products on unfinished wood. Nothing will stick to it if you do, paint, stain, glue, etc.
Trivia fact: A drop of silicone the size of a pinhead can migrate enough to cover a VW beetle, with a layer enough to repel automotive lacquer.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
The secret to a long life is knowing when its time to go. M. Shocked
Old Problem, Traditional Solution
Woodworkers have been wrestling with the problem of lubricating things, witout attracting dust or staining the wood, for centuries. Small wonder the solution was found long ago: Paste wax.
For most uses, ordinary automotive "Turtle Wax" does quite well. If you need to get into tight spaces and need something that penetrates, LPS-3 is a spray form of paraffin that firms up as the solvent evaporates.
There are also "dry" lubricants to consider, including dry sprays of silicone, moly-containing grease, graphite, and teflon. I'd reserve their use for dry location.
WD-40 is superior, in my experience, to other products for removing traces of moisture before applying LPS-3. Contrary to LPS' claims, none of the LPS products really displace moisture; I've often seen a film of rust form between the wax and the metal.
The one drawback to wax is that it degrades pretty quickly in sunlight. I'd make a practice of giving the rails a quick wipe-down on Friday afternoon; the wax will be quite firm by Monday morning.