Anyone have experience with using LVL vs. regular fir 2x12s for stair stringers? Which do you prefer?
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LVL's have become pretty much the norm for me for the last 3 years.
Here is what I have used recently--was real nice to have such straight knot free material---Guess you can get a similiar material PT for decks,
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
we had some rim board left over from one job... used it for our stringers on the next job..
rimboard costs less than LVLMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
rimboard costs less than LVLthe exact reason I used these.Pays to have a friendly lumber guy--guess he could have sold me LVL but instead he suggested these.No looking back now--No more dancing around knots---playing the crown or busting off a point.for the one or two a year that I cut I am sticking with rimboard.In this set I used 3/4 ply for the risers and carpet treads--A little glue and ring shank nails---sweet, quiet set of stairs.John told me to say this---" Is this the real Mike Smith?"Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I have used LVL's too, but I really like the rimboard idea. Less $$$, less weight for same depth. Solid 2x is no good unless it is dry. I have recut old 2x for stringers, ones that acclimated for a decade plus, and thay are good, too. They were also free on the job.Bill
LVL- straight, flat, stable
what's not to like?
LVL- straight, flat, stable what's not to like?
The cost.
blue
but when the dimensional 2x starts warping, and twisting, and shrinking, and basically screws up your nicely cut stair strings-
the LVLs will seem cheap
Over 30 years with no callbacks. I think dimensional lumber works good enough.
blue
you must get better stuff in Mi.
But I have to admit my regular yard leaves all the dimensional out in the weather, so Its usually pretty wet
Shep, wet is bad. I do try to find a reasonably dry piece.
They send out a fairly decent grade of syp for the treads, but the stringers are usually a hem fir or doug fir. We typically fasten the stringers to the walls, or they are supported by walls, so they really don't move much and if they do, it really doesn't matter...they're covered by drywall anyways.
I don't mind that you guys uses such a high priced stringer, but it's not something that I'd do. One reason is that I don't like pounding nails into the edges of products like that. I just don't think that they have as good holding power. I might be wrong about some of the products though. I also tend to think that the rim material is too narrow for stringers. Again, I might be wrong.
blue
I felt the same way when i read about the rim joist- not really enough meat for stair strings. I do sometimes use dimensional 2x for strings, if I can find something fairly dry, especially for basement stairs.
But I still prefer LVL
I really like them and don't see a downside other than the cost and weight (for solo installs). Convincing aunt Rita or cousin Mert it's worth the extra $ might be a tough sell, but on a custom stain-grade job it's a small percentage of the cost.
:-)
TrusJoist makes their LSL (laminated strand lumber) in 1-3/4 thickness, and that is what I would use if I could, but my dealers cannot get it.
LSL is what they make their rimboard stock in, but it is thinner, maybe 1-1/8".
Just because someone says they have been using sawn lumber for stringers without callbacks for a half-century or more, doesn't mean you should shy away from the no-shrink engineered lumber and use boards. Some of those folks out there with squeaky stairs may have been too shy to call back.