Replies

1. 
   JMadson | Feb 19, 2009 04:55am | #1

   Can you make a patch?

   What type of wood? Bare wood?

   Can you make a thin patch out of similar material?

   http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Patching_damaged_veneer.html

    

   
   

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   Edited 2/18/2009 8:58 pm by JMadson

1. 
   BKWood | Feb 19, 2009 04:58am | #2

   I'm not sure which would stick out more .... my botch or a patch?! Seems like there would always be a joint .... right?Good article at WoodWeb .... thanks. The door is old CVG fir that has been oiled at one time but is very dried out.

   Edited 2/18/2009 9:04 pm ET by BKWood

1. 
   JMadson | Feb 19, 2009 05:04am | #3

   that's why it depends on the wood type and if you have more of the same. A good patch can disapear if done well.

   Also, how will the final be finished, light or dark? 

1. 
   BKWood | Feb 19, 2009 05:09am | #5

   I'm just putting a clear hard drying oil finish on it ... Daly's Pro Fin.

1. 
   JMadson | Feb 19, 2009 05:47am | #6

   BK,

   Normally you get a ton of responses from this gang. That is unless they see the question is already answered. I'm guessing from the lack of other responses that your choices are limited.

   My only question would be wood type? Some are easier than others. I would like an oak because you can line up the grain easily and the color is consisten. But something like cherry might be hard to match the color.

   The clear coat is a good thing actually (if you can match the wood). If you tried to stain a patch, the pigments might highlight the patch lines.  

2. 
   Sphere | Feb 19, 2009 04:00pm | #7

   Get some clear shellac, and amber shellac, and a few tint concentrates. Build a layer of clear as a base, then with fine tip artists brushes lay down grain lines. Mix the shellac and tint on a scrap of mirror, it give you a truer vision of what you have.

   Fill ib between the grain line to match the background color. Another coat of shellac, then you may add more color, same way or even using colored magic markers ( some cabs come with touch up markers in wood tones). Do not over brush the shellac or it will disolve the previous layer, just lay it and leave it alone.

   Blend you "patch" over onto the old untouched area, match the grain lines.

   You can make brushes or steal from your womans make up drawer..graining can be done with a pc of corregated cardbaord too..cut it at an angle to expose the core and drag it through a layer of color.

   May have to lightly sand between layers..400-600 wet dry paper, the black stuff..no sterated paper.

   Build it high and sand/level through the layers and it will develope the chatoyance ( cats eye) with the shellac build.

   Good luck, steady hand and stand BACK and look at it often.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

    

    

3. 
   BKWood | Feb 19, 2009 11:13pm | #9

   I was actually thinking along these lines .... my daughter is an artist/painter and I was thinking she could probably help with this! Thanks for the methods!

2. 
   Jer | Feb 19, 2009 05:05am | #4

   Yes, you can patch it. That sounds like your only choice.

3. 
   [email protected] | Feb 19, 2009 07:01pm | #8

   If I read you right, this is the bottom stile, and not at eye level.  I'd be inclined to place a new veneer face on the entire stile.  Most species are available as iron on sheets.  If the species you need is not available as an iron on, you can put a thin layer of white glue on both surfaces, let it dry, and then iron it on. 

   I'd plane off the old veneer, clean up the surface and apply the new veneer.  If you are careful with the trim cuts, it should be invisible to all but a person crawling on the floor trying to find it.  It will af course be glaringly obvious to you from several hundred feet for ever. 

   You might want to post over on knots, there are quite a few folks there, who know far more than I do about veneering, and veneer repairs.