Has anybody tried this:
http://www.workbenchproducts.com/Webpages/product-tablesaw.php
My son has a 12″ table saw in humid environment… he’s looking for a way to keep rust cleaning to a minimum.
www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby To make a small call out. A pretty dancing girl was there, And she began to shout, “Go on back to see the gypsy. He can move you from the rear, Drive you from your fear, Bring you through the mirror. He did it in Las Vegas, And he can do it here.”
Replies
Judging by what the magentic signs for my truck started to do, i'd question whether or not if would work. Moisture can get under a magnet.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I worked for a while in Florida, and there was a machine shop in an unairconditioned building. THe machinist said that the only way he could keep rust off was to spray down the machines each night with WD-40.
There are now non-greasy rust preventatives, and you can get impregnated (can I say that?) paper with this material. The magnetic top would serve to keep the paper in place, and help keep the rust-preventative from evaporating (it works by emitting low quantities of materials, so you don't have to actually coat the part).
It's been a while since I used the stuff, so I have to search for it. If you want me to, just give a reply.
Buy a can of Boshield $15-20. It stops any rust and last a long time. Doesn't stain the wood. Kevin
Wax and oil have been my best methods of preventing rust other than constant use. I think moisture could still be trapped under the cover when you put it down which may accelerate the problem.
I've found Bosheild to be pretty messy, it's been a while, is there a new formula?Wax and oil have been troublesome, to me, cause they get in the wood and have made finishing problems. Maybe I'm not putting it on right.Dri Cote works, but it's expensive, and needs frequent re-applications.Seems if the table was dry when the magnet went on, it would be tough for moisture to get under it.Dunno, was hoping some one had used this stuff with good results.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
I've had real good luck with those anti rust papers that have a Mil-Spec rating. I'll see if I can round up a name for you.
Never had a problem with Johnson Paste Wax
Edited 3/20/2009 5:31 pm ET by john7g
Do you do anything special to the wood to clean it up after you've run over a waxed table?The paper sounds like it might be good. I remember hearing about it some. If you've got a name, I'd appreciate it.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
I jsut went and took a look around the shop and couldn't find the pacakge I thought I had to no avail and looked on the pieces I have wrapped around my chisels to see if there was a number nut again struck out. This might be a lead http://www.uline.com/BL_5250/?pricode=WO443
and I'll keep a look out for the remnants that I do have.
As for the Johnsons Paste Wax, use it like a car wax, rub it one and let it dry and they buff it off, lather rinse & repeat asoften as you want. It'll leave your saw table slicker than snot when you use it and absolutely no issues with it affecting the wood. I first started using Johnsons when I started in the cabinet shops back in the early 80s and those folks acted like they'd been using it forever.
I've used a lot of Boeshield for close to twenty years now. Still no rust and this climate is almost as humid as you can get.
I've also used a product called Slip-it that can be had in spray or a buff on gel. Neither seem to hurt finishes at all. My impression is the boeshield lasts longer between applications and is easier to apply
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I'm guessing you Boshielders don't have a problem with it gunking stuff up... I'll pull out my old can and see if it's got any spritz.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
No, it is thin enough to penetrate metal pores.Note that you don't just spray it on like WD40 and wipe it. you spray and let it set for 3-4 minutes, then buff it in and excess off so no gunk whatsoever.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
BTW, I also use scraps of EPDM for tool covers when leaving tools out on the job. That would be preferable to a magnetic cover that can attract condensation.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I will retry the boshield. But with the magnet thing, it's stuck tight to the table, I'd think the condensation would form on the outside of that, why under?http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
I dunno - instinct?;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
My instincts tell me brussel sprouts are poisionous<G>Really, I've got no vested interest in the magnet thing, but... if something impermeable is sucked down tight to the table top...I can see some moisture around the edges, and as John suggested, in the miter slots...am I sounding like Frenchy yet?http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
>...am I sounding like Frenchy yet?<
You have yet to bring up shellac, nearly free black walnut timbers, lag bolts, predrilling screws, racing legend sports cars, or nearing poverty while living in a million dollar house. :)
and what's wrong with a nap?
I don't know why but I'm still doubtful of the magnet thing. Like you say, there's nothing really wrong with it, but so far we're just on theory. I'm wondering how long it would tke for the blanket to lay perfectly flat to the table. We're in nearly the same envrionment and my best experience has been to be sure to leave nothing on the table for any prolonged period, just the wax.
I used to wax my saw with bowling alley wax, cause I read about doing it in FHB. Made some oak cabinets that got finished onsite... I got majorly bitched out by the painter... he was acting like I had caulked the joints with silicone... haven't waxed since. But, how does shellac stick to it?http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
since Johnsons wax dries on the table then you buff there's no residue I've ever seen. It's kind like the process to wax a car. dunno about shellac tho.
Did anyone else think it odd that the demo video showed worse corrosion on the waxed portion than on the untreated control section?BruceT
In my earlier post, I mentioned a pre-wipe with WD-40, before waxing. Now you know why.
If the top is already damp, it is possible for wax to trap moisture under it, leading to very bright orange rust. WD-40 actually displaces that moisture, clearing the way for a wax seal.
LPS makes a variety of generally decent products; yet, in my experience, none of them truly displace moisture. I've wound up with rust under the protective film more times than I care for. I haven't had any product work better in this situation then WD-40.
Detractors of WD-40 are as common as ants at a picnic - yet the product continues to serve me well, in a variety of tasks, better than it's rivals.
No.The magnet thing does look interesting. I ain't arguing - just saying what works for me
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
>why under?<
because I'd doubt that it was a perfect match up to the top, Miter fence slots would be a way for moisture laden air to enter as well.
Now maybe if you could incorporate an electric blanket into that magnet...
Now maybe if you could incorporate an electric blanket into that magnet... We're supposed to be working, not taking naps<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
That product might do some really nice things .... protect against spills, help the work slide easily .... but it won't help protect against rust. It might even make things worse!
For rust treatment, you need to distinguish between a table you're using, and a table you're storing.
For storage, a wipe of WD-40, followed by a coat of LPS-3, is pretty hard to beat. LPS-3 dries to a simple paraffin coat, so a good wipe / buff after storage is all you need do.
For daily use, a simple wax and buff with ordinary car-type wax is just fine. It will not complicate your wood finishing.