I’ll be ordering some 5/4″ Mahogany T&G for four porches soon.
Two have roofs over them and one is open to the elements.
Anyone know a great finish for them?
Thanks
Be well
andy
My life is my passion!
I’ll be ordering some 5/4″ Mahogany T&G for four porches soon.
Two have roofs over them and one is open to the elements.
Anyone know a great finish for them?
Thanks
Be well
andy
My life is my passion!
Understand lumens, ceiling brightness, beam spread, tilt, and color options to make a wise choice on a common fixture that can range from $75 to $750 or more.
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Replies
.......sorry to not have an answer for you....
but I always wonder, how much does a mahogony deck cost? I have never built a mahogony deck but I have bought mahogony for cabinets and it seems like it would be way too expensive to build a deck out of it.
Would it be cheaper or more to build out of redwood or composite?
Are just the finished (seen) portions mahogony or is it framed in mahogony too?
Do you sand the deck before applying finish?
Again, sorry to just throw questions at you, I've just been curious for awhile.
gk
Hey, Andy. I'm 20 or so piers away from installing my own hardwood deck using Ipe (Ironwood). There should be a separate category for this stuff like "rock-hard" wood --- its fire rating is the same as steel and concrete which means the house might melt to the ground, but damn that deck still looks great!
Anyway, to your question, many people I've talked to recommend Messmer's "UV Plus for Hardwoods" for its penetrating power on hardwoods, which is obviously limited to begin with, and its UV protection. I guess Ipe turns silver grey without UV protection --- don't know if the same/similar holds true for mahogany. Here's Messmer's link:
http://www.messmers.com/prod_uh.html
A question for you: Are you installing the deck boards solo or with help? The reason I ask is that I've installed Ipe before, with a helper, and the two of us could barely bend a few of the boards into place (that was the last time I asked my grandma to help me with decking.) Is mahogany this stiff as well? I'm putting in my Ipe deck by myself and am wondering if you (or anyone else out there) has ever heard of or tried the "BoWrench" (http://www.bowrench.com) to tweak the boards.
Good luck with your project.
Flash
Cig-line: What we'll be standing in when Phillip-Morris goes tits up and the Post Office buys North Carolina and Virginia.
If you have never used IPE make sure you have sharp blades and bits for any project you do with this material. I have done several decks and railing systems with IPE and they call it ironwood for a good reason.
When building a deck, I work by myself so the Bowrench is the greatest $60.00 I have ever spent, I have found pre-drilling and stainless steel trim head square drive screws to be the best bet for installation The Bowrench is better than 3 people pushing and pulling to straighten boards.
As for finishes a customer of mine used Austrailian Timber Oil and it didn't last a full year. As for Messmers I use meranti pre finished with it and it looks and lasts. Meranti is also easier to work with if this is your first mahog deck Good Luck!!
wood
Reasearching Meranti a few weeks ago I discovered that Meranti is not as durable or dimensionally stable as real American mahogany, which comes from the West Indies, Mexico, and Central and South America. American mahogany has that beautiful, dark red appearance that will last for twenty to thirty years so they say.
I believe I got a real good price on it being that I'm buying so much from my yard. I'm paying for 5/4" X a full 3" T&G, ninty cents a L.F.
I went and looked at several different species and this one is the one grown in the america's.
Still looking into a good lasting finish.
My guess is that it WONT be water based duhhh.
Thanks
aMy life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy man..don't discount water based...I've had superior results with Hydro-cote's Poly-shield..they ain't far from you..Red Bank, NJ I think or East Orange.
I'll try to get ya a link..
otherwise..PEN-O-FIN...real good choice..
google yer azz off..
be finished
Duane
View Image
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Duane
Yep......thanks..I will google my tuchas off.
I just would like a heads up from someone thats used a products and sees what happens over time.
Every company has outragous claims so......so whaddya really believe?
I think the solids in the finish have a lot to do with it as well as the vehicle that moves it around.
BE floored
andyMy life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy, the biggest thing to achieve is the highest UV blocking you can get...uv destroys things.
Pen-o -fin has lasted well on an open Ipe deck I did 2 summers ago..covered you ought to be good..for two yrs. between coats.
Poly shild has real blocking, but is NOT a penetrating finish..on Mahog. it will perform well, due tothe open grain...on Ipe it's a no-no...Ipe is too slick
Are you sure you don't have Hounduras Mahog? there is no such thing as American Mahog. AFAIK. The "other" mahog. avail. is Phillipene, and way softer than Hond. Phillip. is like Luaun..
I've got gobs of Hond. Mahog. and will try to get ya pic. to compare it to what you have seen..it does make a difference, Phillipene is way too soft for decent floor..and a layered finish would not hold up well
Mahogs are in the Sweitienia (sp) family and it's a huge one, but forestry management has crippled the supply..or mis-management as the case may be..
View Image
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
American Mahogany is Mahogany grown on this continent.
Not necessarily in the USA.
Thats what I meant by American Mahogany....I tried explaining that by saying Mahogany grown in the americas..... such as South "america" etc etc....oiy..I can see it now turning political already.
Still gonna google my green party azz off.lol
BE careful of what you say
andy
aMy life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
ummm, last I checked..S.America was another continent..you mighta meant central America...
what ever...old Chris Columbus was lost too..
be some what American...
LOL ...G,D,R..View Image
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Just finished a mahogany deck and I use the bowrench. Not too bad. Quicker than clamping temporary blocks and using wedges. Only problem is that it really racks the joists sideways if you put a lot of force on it. And, you need two people. Hard to use the wrench and fasten boards if you're solo. Pretty much need three hands. Worth the price, but only half as good as I'd like.
you need to learn to use your foot on the Bowrench
Andy:
Good deal! A yard I use here in eastern Mass. sells square-edge 5/4x6 mahogany for $1.45 per lnf.
I've used a product called "Australian Timber Oil" on mahogany. It comes in a few colors and the red one complments the natural color of the wood quite well. It holds up a little better than clear finishes, but around here, any deck exposed to the sun, rain, snow, ice, traffic, etc. needs re-coating about every year. Since yours are under a roof, you might have better luck.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Mojo
Sounds like you got a better deal than me.
Was it American Mahogany cause I know the other stuff is less costly.
Yer paying 2.90 sq ft and I'm paying 3.60 except mine is T&G. I wonder how much that actually adds on to each foot. seventy cents more a foot???? Hmmm
MAybe I should keep shopping around.
BE well
andyMy life is my passion!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
For the custom exterior door I made for my sauna I used 5/8 sheet mahogany w/ raised panels of same (cedar T&G on the inside, insulation in the middle). Finished it with Minwax Indoor/Outdoor Spar Urethane clear satin finish. This is the same product I use on most doors that I refinish here in the islands (St. Croix). I find it works better when I can apply it flat instead of hanging, and let it dry 2-3 days between coats, as it comes thick. One coat is good, but for exterior applications it should be two coats. If you go thicker than that, you'd be better served with tabletop epoxy. Going with many coats can also cause that 'cloudy' look. If I had to do this door again (after 4 years, it's ready...), I would use the same product, but not so many coats (I did something like nine), and I would bevel each flat area of my horizontals on my raised panels before finishing, the better to shed water, and that area seems to be the first place to seperate finish from material. Otherwise, I have a lovely, slightly cloudy, raised panel Mahogany door, and each raised panel looks like it has a grey beard!
"If left is wrong, then right is the only thing left, right?"