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Mahogany Kitchen Countertop – Finish?

HunterC | Posted in General Discussion on November 3, 2007 04:26am

I made a mahogany counter top for a wet bar that turned out really well, glued up 6/4 planks about 13″ wide each to get the full width of about 25″. Now we are talking about doing mahogany in the kitchen. My question is, are we nuts? The bar counter really doesn’t get much use, the kitchen will get a lot of use. We are OK with getting dings and scratches, I want to be sure that the finish is right… used waterlox on the bar and it looks beautiful, will that hold up to the daily used-kitchen countertop, or should I be going for some epoxy or other more exotic finish? spar varnish? (I read that spar varnish stays a bit too soft..)

Any suggestions are welcome!

Thanks,

Hunter

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  1. User avater
    Gene_Davis | Nov 03, 2007 07:06am | #1

    Acrylic urethane, and be sure to use protective gear.

    It is not your everyday DIY brush-on.  It's a three part mix, consisting of a base, catalyst, and reducer.  Spray it on.

    On the second tier of performance are the moisture-curing urethanes.  They are one part, and can be brushed.

  2. BillBrennen | Nov 03, 2007 10:31am | #2

    Hunter,

    My experience with Waterlox suggests that it will hold up pretty well. You have to use the thin original stuff until the wood's porosity is fully satisfied.

    I haven't used the high tech finishes Gene recommended, so cannot compare them to the Waterlox.

    Bill

  3. jjwalters | Nov 03, 2007 04:27pm | #3

    Personally I would just oil the wood and enjoy the beauty of it.....wrap it up in a heavy finish it will lose it's character and look like formica...might as well save the money....

     

    waiting on the revolution..............

  4. Piffin | Nov 03, 2007 04:40pm | #4

    I used Waterlox on a mohagany tub surrond that sees regular water. Only hard thing was that I think it took about 13 - 14 coats to satisfy the wood.

     

     

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    1. User avater
      Gene_Davis | Nov 03, 2007 05:27pm | #5

      A tub surround gets water, feet, wipedowns, and little else.  A kitchen counter gets far more of the "else," but not much in the way of feet.

      A counter in a kitchen is a lot like a bar top, and needs to be more resistant to abrasion than what Waterlox can offer.

      1. Piffin | Nov 03, 2007 07:32pm | #6

        I'm thinking that like BB counertopsa, it depenmds how much work an owner is willing to do refreshing the finish. Waterlox is an easy one to keep touching up.I'll agree that the lady's bare butt sliding across a layer of bubbles from the bubble bath probably isn't as abrasive as kitchen utensiles would be 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. brownbagg | Nov 03, 2007 07:46pm | #7

          can I put waterloc on the back of my bead board.
          .
          I talk politics because I hate to drink alone

          1. Piffin | Nov 03, 2007 10:15pm | #8

            That would be one of the most expensive ways to seal it, especiallly from a standpoint of time. bUt if you got it free it wouldn't hurt to use it up. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  5. jayzog | Nov 04, 2007 12:59am | #9

    I would oil it.. it is a little more upkeep, but worth it.

    Using any of the urethanes is wraping the wood in plastic, kinda like plastic slipcovers on the sofa.

    1. Piffin | Nov 04, 2007 01:19am | #11

      exactly!Might as well have mahogany by Formica! 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  6. User avater
    Mongo | Nov 04, 2007 01:04am | #10

    I have wide plank 8/4 teak in my kitchen, four planks each 7-8" wide. Maybe 18' total length, with an undermount sink.

    I also have a 5" thick 4' square teak end-grain butcher block top that I do a lot of prep work on. It takes knife edges daily and shows virtually no wear, even after several years of use.

    Because this is in a kitchen and because we cook and don't do take out, I knew the countertops would get dinged up here and there. Because of that, I didn't want a film finish, so I used food-safe mineral oil.

    I didn't want to deal with repairs to a film finish, and plus, the teak is pretty durable. So mineral oil it is, it gets renewed once every several months. I clear the countertops at night, wipe it on, wipe it off in the morning, and reset things on the countertop.

    With the use and abuse that my kitchen countertops get, I think a film finish would look fairly ratty after all these years. The mineral oil looks great.

    In my master bath, where the countertops are not subject to abuse as in the kitchen, I also did teak. A couple of teak countertops and a teak tub deck. There I did use a film finish, a spar urethane. That also looks as good as day one.

    So in my case I went "backwards". The more abused countertops in my house got the less protective surface treatment. But I had my reasons.

    Mongo

    Mongo

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