Replies

1. 
   joeh | May 14, 2002 06:36am | #1

   No idea as to what might cut a slot like that, especially with the nails , but I'd sure like to know why.......? Joe H

1. 
   4Lorn1 | May 14, 2002 06:54am | #2

   How long does the cut have to be? What sort of finish and tolerance requirements are there?

   I have made mortise cuts with a good 1/4" drill bit by making a tight series of holes and finishing with a chisel.

   You might try plunge cutting with a circular saw to remove the bulk of the material and hitting it with a straight bit in a router. Using a temporary rail as a guide will help with both tools. You would still need to finish with a chisel.

   Borrow a mortise rig and temporarily mount it in place.

   Some combination of the above.

1. 
   ehdaly | May 21, 2002 09:37pm | #15

   4Lorn1,

   Thanks for the suggestion. I tried the drill/chisel option, but I have to make the cut 4' on each side of a window casement which means 8' of drilling and chiseling. I was looking for a solution which would save some time. As we know, having the right tool is priceless.

   Ed

1. 
   PhillGiles | May 22, 2002 02:11am | #18

   Well, if all you need is a little clearance for windows, would a belt-sander (cleaning up the corners with a chisel of course) work ? A course belt can take off 1/8"-1/4" of rough lumber in a couple of blinks providing there's no access constraint. For that matter, an angle-grinder could do the job too..

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   ehdaly | May 22, 2002 06:31pm | #19

   Phill,

   Thanks for responding to my question. The window is already installed and trimed out on the exterior, therefore, using a belt sander is not an option with out tearing out the existing work.

2. 
   ehdaly | May 21, 2002 09:31pm | #14

   Joe,

   Thanks for responding to my question. I need to make the cut because the rough opening for the window was made too small and the window casement is right up against the framing. I am concerned that in humid weather the framing will expand and damage the window.

   Ed

2. 
   greystripe | May 18, 2002 05:53pm | #3

   Not sure what a beaver saw is but if it's a recip. saw or a sawzall I can't think of a better or quicker tool. Put in a new demolition blade and it should handle nails wire just about anything and they come in lenghts of 4" to 8 or 10". Hope this helps.

1. 
   ehdaly | May 21, 2002 09:41pm | #16

   Stone Man,

   Thanks for the suggestion. I may try this, but the problem I envision is the width of the cut may not be sufficient unless a demolition blade is wider than the blades I am acustomed to.

   Ed

3. 
   james | May 18, 2002 06:47pm | #4

   ed,

   try a big foot framing saw, it is an 8 or 10 inch circular saw made by skill.

1. 
   bdandme | May 18, 2002 10:12pm | #5

    The big foot saw sounds like the way to go. Although the blades may be spendy,and the actual tool a little hard to come by.  Sawzall maybe worthy if you can perform the job safely and without damaging the surrounding area

2. 
   ehdaly | May 21, 2002 09:43pm | #17

   James,

   Thanks for the suggestion. I am not familiar with a big foot framing saw, but I should be able to track one down if I get to the right people.

   Ed

4. 
   MarkH128 | May 19, 2002 04:36am | #6

   View ImageThe drillsaw?

1. 
   Ralph027 | May 21, 2002 03:15am | #7

   What the h*ll is that?  Is this anything like a rotozip bit? Where'd you find this widget. Or is this like a jackalope?

1. 
   MarkH128 | May 21, 2002 03:30am | #8

   Here is the hole story: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/squaredrive/dps-0487.html

   It wont make Ed's mysterious slot, but these are handy. Throws a lot of dust and not too accurate.

1. 
   AlanSenoj | May 21, 2002 04:31am | #9

   Mark,

   How did you put that little pic in your post?

   Very cool trick.Alan Jones

1. 
   MarkH128 | May 21, 2002 05:05am | #10

   I just copied it onto the clipboard, then pasted it into the editing box. It's very easy to do.

2. 
   4Lorn1 | May 21, 2002 09:46am | #11

   You might want to be just a bit careful about using side cutting bits in drills. In a pinch I will use a Zip bit in a drill but only on an occasional short cut. It saves a trip to the truck to get the Sawsall and works well for cutting in the odd box in OSB or where a hole saw would bind excessively. For more than one I get the Sawsall.

   I am concerned about bearing wear. I suspect and have gotten a nod from a local tool repair guy that the front bearing on most drills are primarily designed to  take a load in line with the bit not at 90 degrees to it. I suspect that it won't make any great difference if you only make occasional short cuts in soft wood but much more than that I would tend to get a tool designed for the load. A router comes to mind.

   Maybe someone with greater knowledge of the subject, maybe our engineer friend, would like to chime in with the real deal on front bearing in drills.

3. 
   MarkH128 | May 21, 2002 07:20pm | #12

   I have better tools for making cutouts. I only occasionally use that bit when I need to make a qick cut. Mainly I was joking, since thery are kinda funny. I think a good drill like a Milwaukee can stand a good bit of side load, since it has ball and needle bearings. A sleve bearing drill would not hold up to side loads very long.

2. 
   ehdaly | May 21, 2002 09:27pm | #13

   Mark,

   Thanks. I have this bit, which I understood was called a beaver saw. However, it will not make a cut 4" deep. I appreciate your trying to help.

   Ed