Replies

1. 
   Greg_Brown | Jan 27, 2002 05:37am | #1

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   fiberglass can waterproof most anything

1. 
   Greg_Brown | Jan 27, 2002 05:54am | #2

   *the Jan. 2001 issue of FHB had an article titled "Making the American Dream Affordable" that had this pic in it...

1. 
   Terry_Smiley | Jan 27, 2002 06:09am | #3

   *TerryI don't think you want to tile fiberglass.The way I'd recommend doing it is with a mud job and a rubber pan. You can build any size you want and tile the whole thing. Check out FHB issue # 141 pages 66-71 Terry

1. 
   Michael_Rimoldi | Jan 27, 2002 06:24am | #4

   *Terry, Call a local pool contractor and see if they can help. Basically, you'd be creating a very small custom pool indoors. Sounds really cool but I know it would be at a premium price.Mike

1. 
   splintergroupie_ | Jan 27, 2002 09:13am | #5

   *Get Taunton's superb "Bathroom Idea Book" by Andy Wormer. There's a section on alternative baths, spas, etc, with many in-floor bathtubs photos, many of which look ready-made and set in. Consider that you'll likely have to upgrade your domestic HW supply to fill it.

2. 
   Brian_Smith | Jan 27, 2002 10:27am | #6

   *this month's issue hase an article on concrete bathtubs.terry's suggestion is the conventional approach.

3. 
   Rich_ | Jan 28, 2002 03:05am | #7

   *Assuming you know nothing about proper materials to use and the installation techniques I'll suggest materials to make it as easy as possible for you. 'Course you still have to do your homework on installation techniques. Also, it would behoove you to include a qualified plumber in your plans. Bring him in early, not after completion.Assuming you've completed the structural calcs, start with a framed in box of desired dimensions plus 1-1 1/2" in all dimensions. Sheet all surfaces with no less than 5/8" AC plywood, properly supported. Round over all outside corners. Have plumber complete rough out work.Apply shower pan membrane over wood. (It's a bit of work to get it to lay flat and to properly tuck the corner folds if you haven't done this before.) Apply liquid waterproof membrane (Hydroment UltraSet) to all surfaces and extending minimum 4 inches outside of tub. Wait mfg specified time. Apply 2nd coat of UltraSet perpendicular across 1st coat. Perform 48 hour leak test by filling tub with water. Avoid splashing when filling tub to allow for accurate mark of water level at beginning of test. Caveat: Allow for secondary water drainoff if required. (Nothing like running around like a Chinese firedrill wondering how you gonna get rid of the water quickly because you notice a leak at the bottom...after you've filled the tub completely.)Apply minimum thichness wet cement bed to tub bottom. Let cure one day. Tack expanded metal lath to all verical surfaces surfaces. Use small quarter size globs of UltraSet to tack matal lath in place. (You may have to temporarily brace lath to get it to lay flat.) Apply 4:1:1 mix of sand/lime/cement to all surfaces except bottom. Float to finish. Lay in metal lath at bottom. (Lath stands 1/2" away from all vertical surfaces.) Apply 5:1 sand/cement drypack to bottom of tub. Tile as typical with fullflex thinset mortar (Custom's Fullflex), or, add three part epoxy to standard thinset mortar (Bostik's epoxy). Grout with acrylic fortified grout, or, epoxy based grout. Have plumber complete finish work.Caveat: You must get shower pan membrane flat and tight to all surfaces. There shall be no (zero) fasteners or penetrations through the pan inside of tub. Avoid hot mop as it will fail in wood framed tub. It is imperative you work closely with plumber in figuring dimensions and elevations (rough & finish). Draw a detail of planned installation and share this with the plumber. During framing, be sure to allow for slope at bottom and any vertical surfaces. Sand is #20 mesh plaster sand, lime is type S. Read UltraSet instructions, particularly the notes about time interval for curing, adhesion, etc. Epoxy will produce fumes which may be hazardous in confined spaces. Provide positive ventilation. Avoid punctures in UltraSet. BTW: The above is exactly how I'm going to construct a soaking tub in my home later this year.

4. 
   p_m | Jan 28, 2002 05:41am | #8

   *Have you considered installing a boat? Boats are designed to keep water out but that works both ways and there is no reason why you can't install a boat in your bathroom, tile it and fill it with the liquid of your choice. -Peter

5. 
   Tom_Laing | Jan 28, 2002 06:09am | #9

   *I built a tub in my own home a couple years ago and it's holding up well. The difference is that mine is a small version of a hot tub. It's constantly full, hot and subject to the various chemicals for such a tub. It seems like if my method works for a hottub, it would be a cakewalk for a standard bathtub. I came up with my method after talking to all sorts of people in addition to asking for advise in this forum. What I found was that no two people gave the same opinion so I felt it was up to me to come up with a method that made sense to me. I built a wood frame the size and shape I wanted, including two facing benches, then lined the entire tub with Durok cement board followed by a liberal application of Ultra-Set (by Bostik). After about 48 hours, I began setting the tile using a latex-modified thinset. You could also use another application of Ultra-Set as a tile adhesive, and I'm sure it would work well, but the stuff is as messy as anything you will ever work with; sticky as can be, and not easy to clean up (requires toluol or lacquer thinner). An engineer at Bostik told me that thin set is very compatible with Ultra-Set...otherwise I'd have been a little skeptical. When I built my tub, the warning on the Ultra-Set label said to apply the final finish (tile) within 72 hours, which in my case was impossible. Bostik told me that that warning was to be removed soon. According to him, the biggest concern is to not let the dried Ultra-Set get dirty or dusty. Since I didn't want a jetted tub, I only have a single inlet and outlet for the heater/circulator. For these fittings, I used marine through-hull fittings set in Ultra-Set. I used a different marine fitting for the drain...I didn't trust a standard tub drain device to stand up to the pressure of 100 gallons of water.Good luck. Tom Laing

6. 
   Art_B. | Jan 28, 2002 02:44pm | #10

   *Have done fibergalss rather than tile.Most Japenese tubs are tiled 3 ft sq and 4 ft deep built similar to as Tom describes above. You could also try fiberglass if you can do it outside (due to smell of resin)Just like building a canoe. Have done 2 tubs like this, as could not find tub 6-1/2 ft long that didn't take enough water to run well dry. Method 1: Start with papier mache over chicken wire. 3 or 4 layers of fiberglass cloth with polyester resin over that. After 1st layer, smooth with bondo, add second layer, bondo again and sand smooth with RO sander, last 2 layers smooth with coloring to suit addded. # ft wide 7 ft long tub took $5 worth of cloth (got it cheap surplus) and $125 worth of resin. Method 2: Got a 5 ft spa type tub for $10 on closeout, cut in half, added fiberglass 2 ft extension by screwing halve together with plywood and fibergalssing over that.

2. 
   Terry_Ensley | Jan 28, 2002 02:44pm | #11

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   Is it possible to make an oversized bath tub. Something possibly framed and then tiled. My wife would like a large walk-in(down) tub. We have the room in the bathroom and the floor will support the weight - but is it feasible or a lost cause? I don't even know if it's possible to make something like that water proof. Any suggestions? Thanks.