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Making Your Own Flashing??

| Posted in Construction Techniques on May 22, 2003 03:31am

I will be installing the trim and FC siding on my new house.  I want to do things right and install metal flashings at my drip cap and above my window/door heads.  I have not been able to find any premade flashings and I’ve come to the realization that most siding contractors make their own flashings out of coil stock.  I am willing to do that, but I don’t have a clue on how to do it and what sort of tool(s) that I need.  If anyone has suggestions or could point me in the right direction, that would be great!  Thanks for all the help.

Craig

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  1. brujenn | May 22, 2003 05:49pm | #1

    If you don't want to spend the big money required to get a good break (for bending sheet metal) ask a local gutter supply house if they custom bend metal. In Portland Oregon there are such shops and the cost is a pitance compared to buying the tool which if it is big enough to be useful will take up most of your spare shop space (normally found in Narnia and Atlantis) Have you asked your building materials vendors about "Z" metal? Available commonly across the country, it comes in many sizes of galvanized steel from 5/8" to around 2 1/2", ready to cut to length with ordinary snips and paint. 

    1. JohnSprung | May 22, 2003 09:43pm | #2

      Check out the WECO bending tool here:

      http://www.nabocker.com/store/category.cfm?Category=58

      You may have to scroll down to the bottom for it.

      Instead of a large break that bends all at once, this appears to be a progressive roller system.  The advantages are that it's smaller, cheaper, and not limited to a specific length. The disadvantage would seem to be that it'd be much slower, and $380 ain't exactly cheap.

      -- J.S.

      1. jsvenson | May 23, 2003 02:00am | #4

        John,

        That roller is geared more for standing seam roofing, than general brake work. On standing seam roofs the panels are ordered the exact length of the roof. If the roof is say, 18 ft up you usually need to bend the last  piece at the gable. Since the panel is 18 ft, and even a large brake is 12 ft you would have trouble getting the bend without two-piecing the last panel. That tool lets you bend any length you need.

        CMZIMM,

        Most rental shops should have the brake available for an affordable cost. Just plan to do your bending in a one or two day period.

        You can get a siding manual from your supplier, (Georgia Pacific, and Mastic have them-probably other mfrs as well) The manual should have examples of all the profiles you wil need.

        John Svenson, Builder, Remodeler, NE Ohio (Formerly posted as JRS)

        Edited 5/22/2003 7:05:09 PM ET by Svenny

        1. JohnSprung | May 23, 2003 02:41am | #7

          Thanks for the info.  Have you used one of these roller benders?  Any feedback on it?  I'm tooling up for a little standing seam copper job, and it's one of the items I found in that process.

          -- J.S.

          1. junkhound | May 23, 2003 02:47am | #8

            FWITW, mostly for DIY vs pro, but have had good luck for flashing (up to 20 ft long) using a cutoff wheel in skil saw and cutting the corners out of scrap furnace ducts.

          2. jsvenson | May 23, 2003 02:57am | #9

            I haven't used one, the standing seam roofs I've done lately have been relatively small, Back in the early eighties I was doing bigger ones, but at that time we weren't using seamless eave to ridge panels. We used 8s, 10s, and 12s. Hopefully I'll be getting some of the bigger ones soon. If so I will definetly be getting one of those or something similar. Don't think I would bother with it for anything under 12 ft though.John Svenson, Builder, Remodeler, NE Ohio (Formerly posted as JRS)

          3. User avater
            mmoogie | May 23, 2003 04:25am | #10

            I've done lots of site-bent flashing by merely creasing the metal by hand along a sharp-edged board. I just start sliding my thumb and forfinger (gloved, of course) back and forth along the metal at the spot where the edge of the board is. I've develeloped the ability to get a very crisp bend this way. But if you are doing a lot, I would draw up all your profiles and rent a 10' siding break for a day and bend them all at once.

            Steve

          4. cmzimm | May 23, 2003 02:10pm | #11

            Thanks for the help.  It looks like renting a brake is the way to go unless I can find someone to bend it for me.  Thanks again.

            Craig

          5. stanleyj2 | May 23, 2003 04:02pm | #12

            CMZIMM:

            Fine Homebuilding featured a homemade brake made of three sections of

            2 x 6" pine framing some time ago. I cannot remember the issue number, but I made one a few years ago and it works quite well. I have used it with coil stock and also sheet copper.

            Stan

          6. ahneedhelp | May 23, 2003 04:33pm | #13

            A friend who recently retrofitted about a dozen Pella architectural series casements onto his brick home made his own flashing and brickmolds from flat coilstock using a homemade wood bending jig.

            He chose not to rent a brake mainly because he couldn't schedule the task all at once and would have had to rent it for a week or longer for very sporatic use.

            This is no half-#### DIY job - it turned out very nice for a very expensive house in a historical neighborhood.

            Anyhoo....I've seen what can be done without having to use the 'proper' tool.

          7. JohnSprung | May 23, 2003 09:45pm | #14

            Very interesting -- can you post some pictures of your break?

            Thanks --

            -- J.S.

  2. r_ignacki | May 23, 2003 01:54am | #3

    get a pair of those hand seamers the duck guys use. You won't be able to make a crisp bend, but at least you will have flashed the windows, and it will serve it's purpose.

  3. EricS | May 23, 2003 02:10am | #5

    Here's a company that will suit your needs:

    http://www.bendtek.com

    I'm also pretty sure that plastic trim mfgs like Azec(?) make a standard drip cap (either WM197 or WM188 - I forget which is standard).

    Eric S. 

  4. fdampier5 | May 23, 2003 02:17am | #6

    I did just that,  I went and bought copper ( at a scrap metal place) for my flashings and then hauled it to a sheet metal shop to have them put the bends (breaks) in it.  They worked off my sketches and did it while I waited. the price was a little high but I suspect they  figured that since I brought in copper I could afford it..

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