Replies

1. 
   timkline | Jun 15, 2002 05:25am | #1

   Wrapping the sill on a clad Marvin Double Hung ? What are you talking about ?

   carpenter in transition

1. 
   royr | Jun 16, 2002 02:16am | #2

   I've seen people wrap the sill on the framing prior to installing the window. I assume this prevents any leakage. I was looking for a explination on this process

2. 
   cwpp1 | Jun 16, 2002 03:06am | #3

   When the EIFS became the rage of residential construction many installers failed to properly seal the siding from moisture.The window framing rotted out because the sterifoam board is a natural sponge, as is wood. according to manufactures installation techniques was the biggest problem. One recommendation was to wrap the window frame with a moisture protection.

   Charlie

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Jun 16, 2002 01:57pm | #4

   Marvin gives you instructions on how to

   wrap the jambs. You use the same rubber stuff

   that is used for ice damns. Do it their way.

   If you ever have a claim and you did it some

   oddball way, they won't honor the claim. Just

   did a job with a zillion expensive Marvin windows.

   Nice windows. We wrapped the jambs. Looked ####little strange, but that's what Marvin said to do

   and that's what we did.

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 16, 2002 03:37pm | #5

   Forget the brand name.

   Any window installation (except Windoz 98 on a PC) needs to have a sill wrap.

   You use tarpaper or bituthene ice and water shield. Grace (do a search) Industries has a product called Vycorin 6, 9, 12" widths made just for this process.

   The strip goes on the framed sill with an extra four inches at each end to cut,notch carefully at the corner. The excess width is allowed to lie down at the outside of the wall over the housewrap/tarpaper so that laps face downhill to shed any water out from the framing.

   Then the window is set in place. More of the same material can be use to lap over the installation flange too but the sill piece is the most important. We use it all the way around because of living on a coast where stiff Noreaster's will drive water at 80MPH and try hard to find a way in.

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   ClevelandEd | Jun 17, 2002 02:25am | #6

   Any chance that there is another option out there for non-skilled homeowners like me, such as paying Marvin  for an upgrade option to a rot resistant lumber species?   I was planning on buying half a dozen Marvin unclad double hung windows.  I have an old house, and the Marvin come the closest I have seen to being able to blend least conspicuously. 

1. 
   Piffin | Jun 17, 2002 02:49am | #7

   Marvin does use a chemical in the wood to preserve it against rot. I also believe that you can get their windows in fir and mahogany. But we are not talking here about dealing with the window but protecting the sill framing from water that might penetrate around the window into the wall assembly. The Vycor is under the actuall window unit and over the frame sill piece. And it's not terribly skilled work. If you can wrap a gift in tissue paper, you can tuck in a window.

   Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Rein_ | Jun 17, 2002 03:04am | #8

   I retrofitted an old double brick house with Marvins a few years back.

   Being a brick structure, there was less to protect, but the bitumous rubber flashing mentioned by others did a great job on the wooden parts. It is really easy to install. I would not be afraid of it.

   The trick is to think like water, wrap the stuff on so that it overlaps itself and water can't get under. If you trap water under the flashing, you will create a bigger problem.

   I have seen 8" wide rolls at a number of outlets. It is definitely less expansive than buying some PT or exotic wood windows and as other have said, it's the framing you are trying to protect anyway.

   BTW, I'm really happy with the quality and performance of the Marvins. I bought unclad and painted them to match the house too. Do get them factory primed, though. Save yourself that hassle!

3. 
   Mongo | Jun 17, 2002 05:24am | #9

   About all I use are Marvins. Mostly woodies.

   Wrap the opening in the framing like piffin said...which is, essentially, the same thing Marvin specs.

   It's an easy detail. Wrap the sill of the framed rough opening, then the sides, then the top, with the "top of the top" piece of membrane getting tucked under the tar paper or spun poly, whatever you're using for housewrap.

   Edited 6/16/2002 10:27:13 PM ET by Mongo

4. 
   ClevelandEd | Jun 17, 2002 06:15am | #10

   Thanks guys for you convincing comments.  I'll go with Marvin and wrap.   Didn't mean to hijack this discussion, and if i did sorry to whoever posted the original question. 

5. 
   Paularado | Jun 18, 2002 01:00am | #11

   Well....since you did alrady hijack this thread Ed.....:-)

   What about log construction? Any tips for flashing there?

   Thanks!

   Paula