Replies

1. 
   reinvent | Jul 12, 2005 06:21am | #1

   You should post this in construction techniques.

1. 
   geoman | Jul 19, 2005 04:06am | #2

   Hello Reinvent,

   I took your suggestion and moved my message. However, no response.  Is the question too silly?  Is the answer so obvious it's like rolling off a log?  If you're a frequent guest to this forum, maybe you could help me rephrase the question?

    

   Thanks,

   GEO

2. 
   gregb | Jul 19, 2005 05:13am | #3

   What you're planning on doing sounds fine. I would be sure to nail down through the face of the stool into the edge of the apron for additional support.

   FWIW, we install hundreds of Marvin windows a year (both insert replacements & new construction), & attach the stools the same way you're describing on the new construction units. Only difference is we usually make our own stools out of 1x or 5/4 stock, & don't plow out a rabbet on the bottom. We simply leave a square edge on the back of the stool, & glue & fasten it to that bottom pc. of trim on the window. As long as it's glued, & attached to the apron, it's fine.

1. 
   geoman | Jul 20, 2005 02:14am | #7

   Thank you for the reply.  I'm a little confused though on the difference between a rabbet (from a millwork supplied stool?) and the one you are fashioning leaving a "square edge" on the back of the stool.  The rabbet and the square edge you're talking about sound like the same thing to a DIYer. 

1. 
   gregb | Jul 20, 2005 04:16am | #9

   GEO, a rabbeted stool is typically used on a window that has a portion of the sill exposed to the interior. The sill is pitched, usually at about a 7 degree angle, & the stool has a groove, or rabbet cut into its underside with a corresponding bevel. The idea is that once set onto the sill, the stool will sit level.I'm not very familiar with the Andesen stools, but it sounds like you're describing them as being rabbeted to match up with the Andersen window? If that's the case, I don't know how well they'll work with the Marvin window, since the frames are different. What I was saying about the square edge was that when we make our stools, we normally don't rabbet them. We usually square cut the back edge at 90 degrees to the face, then glue & nail the stool on. You can, if you prefer, form a square rabbet on the underside of the stool that would let you drop it over that lower pc. of trim in front of the bottom sash. We've done this, but the rabbet needs to be deep enough that the stool doesn't encroach on the area where the sash lift sits, on the bottom rail of the sash.

3. 
   Piffin | Jul 19, 2005 05:16am | #4

   Maybe not everyone is familiar with both Marvin windows and Narrowline stools.

   The Narrowline is prefittedd for Anderson windows. so you can expect top modify it for Marvins. We make our own sill stock. it is profiled similar to the Brosco B-668 stool. it is 1-1/16" thick and we dado notch al but a quarter inch from the bottom so that it fits over the lip on the Marvin frames.

   Precut the length with mitres at each endso it is an ich beyond the casing, notch to fit the wall with jighsaw, then place it with wood glue ( const adhesive is too heavy for this application) and pin it together while clamps hold it in place, then remove the clamps. Cut returns to fill the mitres and glue them in.

   Then we set the casing, Sometimes we like to nail up in the bottom of the sill into the casing stock ( we use thicker than most off the shelf casings) and then set the aprons last of all. We use glue between apron and sill also, and you want to be sure the sill is parrallel to floor and perpendicular to wall in this whole process.

   I might have a chance to photo the process over the next couple days. We are half done with this on my job. I won't be there tomorrow though.

    

    

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1. 
   wrudiger | Jul 19, 2005 07:01am | #6

   Piffin,

   Pics would be great.  I'm in the same boat as Geo with new const. Marvin gliders.  Thing is, our old stucco house is just tarpaper and mesh - no sheathing - so the frame extends slightly into the room.  I'll have to improvise, but seeing how it's done right will be a great start.  So will understanding the vocabulary for window triming - LOL!  I'm looking that up now!

   Wayne

2. 
   geoman | Jul 20, 2005 02:26am | #8

   Hello Piffin,

   I may have mis-identified the stool as a narrowline.  I ended up buying two different stools from my supplier.  one has an "angled cut" that looks like it's trying to mate with the sloped window sill (?).  and the other is cut square, a notch if you will, that looks like it would be what's needed for the Marvin finishing.

   Can I ask for clarification on a few items in your reply?  Not a contractor, but a fairly competent (but slow) DIYer, I'm not quite sure about trade jargon.

   The Narrowline is prefittedd for Anderson windows. so you can expect top modify it for Marvins. We make our own sill stock. it is profiled similar to the Brosco B-668 stool. it is 1-1/16" thick and we dado notch al but a quarter inch from the bottom so that it fits over the lip on the Marvin frames.  Wouldn't you dado cut only the 1/2 inch that would fit over the frame?   Maybe I should see if Brosco has a web site so I can see the trim profile.

   Cut returns to fill the mitres and glue them in.   I really don't know what you mean here.

   Thanks Piffin!

4. 
   RW | Jul 19, 2005 05:46am | #5

   Yeah not exactly obvious. I almost wonder if they just designed them for picture framing. But like the other said, butt the stool up to the thin piece you're describing. I usually fit it and tack it in place with a few brads from the back side. No, that won't hold a lot of weight, but it holds for the moment. As I case, the apron naturally goes tight to the bottom, and nails into the rough framing. That holds the stool. And I agree that, despite my misgivings the first time I tried it, no worries. It will hold fine.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain