Ah…I finally figured this thing out.
Hello all! I recently installed Marvin Ultimate Clad Double Hung Windows and I’m ready for interior trim. It appears that the stool or saddle needs to be attached to the approximately 1/2 inch by 1.5 inch member that is present at the interior edge of the sill. I purchase from my local lumber yard “narrowline stool” which is roughly 11/16″ thick and 2 1/2″ deep with a 90 degree notch on bottom corner. Not familiar with this type of window (I had previousl installed many Andersons) I want to make sure that the stool is properly attached. If i didn’t have the opportunity to discuss with anyone, I was going to first cut the stool for window width, rip any portion of the stool necessary for meshing with side jambs and sheetrock and then attach stool to window member using construction adhesive and 4D finishing nails. This would be followed by nailing to framework an apron (casing trim), which I would but up tight against the bottom of the stool. Does this sound correct?
Thanks for the reply.
GEO
Replies
You should post this in construction techniques.
Hello Reinvent,
I took your suggestion and moved my message. However, no response. Is the question too silly? Is the answer so obvious it's like rolling off a log? If you're a frequent guest to this forum, maybe you could help me rephrase the question?
Thanks,
GEO
What you're planning on doing sounds fine. I would be sure to nail down through the face of the stool into the edge of the apron for additional support.
FWIW, we install hundreds of Marvin windows a year (both insert replacements & new construction), & attach the stools the same way you're describing on the new construction units. Only difference is we usually make our own stools out of 1x or 5/4 stock, & don't plow out a rabbet on the bottom. We simply leave a square edge on the back of the stool, & glue & fasten it to that bottom pc. of trim on the window. As long as it's glued, & attached to the apron, it's fine.
Thank you for the reply. I'm a little confused though on the difference between a rabbet (from a millwork supplied stool?) and the one you are fashioning leaving a "square edge" on the back of the stool. The rabbet and the square edge you're talking about sound like the same thing to a DIYer.
GEO, a rabbeted stool is typically used on a window that has a portion of the sill exposed to the interior. The sill is pitched, usually at about a 7 degree angle, & the stool has a groove, or rabbet cut into its underside with a corresponding bevel. The idea is that once set onto the sill, the stool will sit level.I'm not very familiar with the Andesen stools, but it sounds like you're describing them as being rabbeted to match up with the Andersen window? If that's the case, I don't know how well they'll work with the Marvin window, since the frames are different. What I was saying about the square edge was that when we make our stools, we normally don't rabbet them. We usually square cut the back edge at 90 degrees to the face, then glue & nail the stool on. You can, if you prefer, form a square rabbet on the underside of the stool that would let you drop it over that lower pc. of trim in front of the bottom sash. We've done this, but the rabbet needs to be deep enough that the stool doesn't encroach on the area where the sash lift sits, on the bottom rail of the sash.
Maybe not everyone is familiar with both Marvin windows and Narrowline stools.
The Narrowline is prefittedd for Anderson windows. so you can expect top modify it for Marvins. We make our own sill stock. it is profiled similar to the Brosco B-668 stool. it is 1-1/16" thick and we dado notch al but a quarter inch from the bottom so that it fits over the lip on the Marvin frames.
Precut the length with mitres at each endso it is an ich beyond the casing, notch to fit the wall with jighsaw, then place it with wood glue ( const adhesive is too heavy for this application) and pin it together while clamps hold it in place, then remove the clamps. Cut returns to fill the mitres and glue them in.
Then we set the casing, Sometimes we like to nail up in the bottom of the sill into the casing stock ( we use thicker than most off the shelf casings) and then set the aprons last of all. We use glue between apron and sill also, and you want to be sure the sill is parrallel to floor and perpendicular to wall in this whole process.
I might have a chance to photo the process over the next couple days. We are half done with this on my job. I won't be there tomorrow though.
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Piffin,
Pics would be great. I'm in the same boat as Geo with new const. Marvin gliders. Thing is, our old stucco house is just tarpaper and mesh - no sheathing - so the frame extends slightly into the room. I'll have to improvise, but seeing how it's done right will be a great start. So will understanding the vocabulary for window triming - LOL! I'm looking that up now!
Wayne
Hello Piffin,
I may have mis-identified the stool as a narrowline. I ended up buying two different stools from my supplier. one has an "angled cut" that looks like it's trying to mate with the sloped window sill (?). and the other is cut square, a notch if you will, that looks like it would be what's needed for the Marvin finishing.
Can I ask for clarification on a few items in your reply? Not a contractor, but a fairly competent (but slow) DIYer, I'm not quite sure about trade jargon.
The Narrowline is prefittedd for Anderson windows. so you can expect top modify it for Marvins. We make our own sill stock. it is profiled similar to the Brosco B-668 stool. it is 1-1/16" thick and we dado notch al but a quarter inch from the bottom so that it fits over the lip on the Marvin frames. Wouldn't you dado cut only the 1/2 inch that would fit over the frame? Maybe I should see if Brosco has a web site so I can see the trim profile.
Cut returns to fill the mitres and glue them in. I really don't know what you mean here.
Thanks Piffin!
Yeah not exactly obvious. I almost wonder if they just designed them for picture framing. But like the other said, butt the stool up to the thin piece you're describing. I usually fit it and tack it in place with a few brads from the back side. No, that won't hold a lot of weight, but it holds for the moment. As I case, the apron naturally goes tight to the bottom, and nails into the rough framing. That holds the stool. And I agree that, despite my misgivings the first time I tried it, no worries. It will hold fine.
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