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Masonry…Very old stuff.

| Posted in General Discussion on May 1, 2000 06:45am

*
I have asked this question on another occasion, and I am getting to the point I really have to do something with the foundation parging on this building. It is a formed concrete foundation with parging atop. The parging has blown off at ground level and there are some structural cracks from a lack of heat and trees growing under the foundation…but I am not so worried about that. This monster is nearly a hundred years old at this point, any ideas on what will stick to it…and possibly give…and any other tips on possibly finishing it. The brick above is orange…could I possibly give a top coat of stucco? Any ideas on what to use for addetives and what mix to make the parging? I have heard that the old stuff was lime based and soft? It should probably match?

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  1. Guest_ | Apr 26, 2000 05:01am | #1

    *
    Gee, Lawrence, what'd you do? You getting the silent treatment from everyone? I'd answer your question, but I guarentee you know a whole lot more about it than I do.

    Good Luck,

    Rich Beckman

    1. Guest_ | Apr 26, 2000 05:56am | #2

      *Lawrence, the brick if orange, may be soft "mud brick" and you'd need to use a lime-mortar or suffer the consequences... how soft is that brick? Can you write your name in it with a nail held like a pencil?As to the foundation, if concrete, you'd need to scale off the bad stuff, and get down to hard material... next, put a bonder in place, and perhaps even go so far as to drill and add short re-rods with epoxy or quickset as anchors... and then resurface.Then again, I could be...

      1. Guest_ | Apr 26, 2000 06:28am | #3

        *Wow...thanks guys! George...thanks. What the existing foundation is composed of is, "I think", lime based concrete with beach stone thrown in...very soft all the way through. But the building seems relatively solid for all it has been through. Thanks for the advice guys...any suggestion on what to use as a bonder? To the soft stuff? Ohh, and yes you can scratch the brick...and the re bar likely won't hold a thing. I filled one crack with masonary sand and masonary cement..it stuck...but holds more moisture than the other stuff...I asure you Rich...I do not know more than anyone about masonary!Thanks again for the advice guys...L

        1. Guest_ | Apr 26, 2000 06:50am | #4

          *I've been searching through my old mags - maybe someone else with better eyes could do the same - there was an article about analyzing mortar composition and recreating it. Some of what I remember involves researching the local source of the materials used for the particular structure. Transportation being what it was years ago dictated that local materials be used as much as possible. You might try the oldest building materials supply house in your area and see if you can work backwards from there. If there is a REAL restoration contractor in your area you might get a world of information from him. I'm thinking museum quality work. If you are really living right somebody might even have something written down.

          1. Guest_ | Apr 26, 2000 02:40pm | #5

            *Several years ago I had some 100 year old brick repointed. I was told that the new mortar should approximate the old - otherwise the differences in expansion might damage the old brick. Maybe the same might apply to your new surface on the old concrete. And, yes, extra lime was used in the new pointing concrete making it soft. The new concrete stuck just fine on the old and the repointing really helped cut down on cold winter drafts.

          2. Guest_ | Apr 27, 2000 03:18am | #6

            *As usual...you guys are on the ball. The sand...came from the beach at the end of my street...beautiful stuff. I think I will talk to a couple of local masons..maybe they will be able to give me pointers..even if they don't want to do it! LOLthanks again guysL

          3. Guest_ | Apr 27, 2000 03:26am | #7

            *Lawrence.. if the orange brick is as soft as i think it is,, and the beach sand concrete.. you can probably scratch it too and it falls off as you drag a nail accross it..i'd shoot a lot of loads into it and tie off some galvanized mesh,, a good grade of galvanized chicken wire, a couple thicknesses..next i'd use a bonding agent.. to try to stabilize the loose materialthen i'd mix up a good cement mortar and apply a scratch coat...then my finish coat... .. steel trowel but i'd probably do a wood float finish....

          4. Guest_ | Apr 27, 2000 08:28am | #8

            *The cost of analyzing a mortar or parging sample from a testing agency is usually only about $50 - well worth it and they usually give you proportions and note whether or not there are any special components.

          5. Guest_ | Apr 29, 2000 12:46am | #9

            *larry call pete tinney he's the best aroud here he and his dad build just about all the old houses. He'll know the best solution.

          6. Guest_ | Apr 30, 2000 08:34am | #10

            *If you do test it, you may find that the 'softness' is due to the presence of chloride ions (salt) from the beach sand (?).I've run into lots of fairly hard mortar and parging with portland cement 100 years old plus or minus ... the really soft lime mortar was considered pretty old-fashioned by the turn of the century I think.

          7. Guest_ | May 01, 2000 03:13am | #11

            *Mike...sounds like a plan. The problem is matching the color. After a year, my test spot is a slightly different color. I am thinking I will get some stucco for the final coat...give it a tinge of red...to blend with the brick. That also sounds like a plan stubby, can't hurt to ask huh? And Jeff...It is the worlds largest "Fresh Water Beach"...LOL so salt is not a concern...but good deductive reasoning though!L

          8. Guest_ | May 01, 2000 06:45am | #12

            *As Roseanne Rosannadanna once said, ' Nevermind '

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