material to use for custom storm shutter

I have to make 3 prs. of storm shutters for a 100 year old house to match downstairs shutters, (they have a patterned design in the middle of the flat panel section. They are not true storm shutters, but are hung in that location). I would consider cedar or redwood, and let it dry out. Then the owners could paint it, which they want to do, as opposed to staining. But they want to paint ASAP. So I need somthing Kiln dried, (I think); I’ve considered the new PVC based material, but not sure how it would hold up? any feed back? (This is in Northern N. jersey area for reference.)
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I've made over a dozen shutters on one job; they cane out well even ten years later using poplar. Pine, I don't recommend. Cedar or redwood are excellent choices.I don't know enough about pvc to say if it'll hold up.
In wood, whichever one, be sure to seal all end grain with epoxy or similar-this ensures a long lasting job.
Do you consider shellac in the same ballpark as epoxy? I thought there were several types of epoxy, no?
If these are exterior shutters, I wouldn't coat the end grain with shellac; don't think it would hold up to the elements. Exterior wood glue would work fine for this if you don't have epoxy.
For epoxy, there are many kinds but I use a slow setting two part mix.
understood. thanks.
Twenty years ago, I made about 30 shutters (with moveable louvers) for my own home. I was trying to save some money and used construction grade douglas fir. These fir shutters have held up fine but they're much heavier than need be. When I put on an addition to the house ten years ago I used cedar for the few extra shutters that I needed. I think cedar is a good choice for exterior shutters.
Chip
I would love to use cedar, but I don't have a source for any that is already dried out. And the client wants to paint ...yesterday. So I have to use stock that is dried so I can mill, cut, build, seal and paint in a relatively short period of time. Thanks.
My supplier (Millwork outfit) recommended sassafras for exterior work...I'm using it for and English Garden lattice fence...easy to work with and reasonably priced.
There's a big difference between epoxy and shellac. I'd stay away from both.
Top grade oil primer with non chalking topcoat.
I've always felt that mounting with decent air space behind the shutter was important. Quicker dry, less prone to mold mildew etc.
NJ has a bee up its butt when it comes to oil based anything. I'll check on availability of sassafras...thanks.
My supplier (Millwork outfit) recommended sassafras for exterior work...I'm using it for and English Garden lattice fence...easy to work with and reasonably priced.
Very interesting. Around here it's the first tree to be eaten by bugs. Rare to find a sassafras of any size, they don't survive that long. Mostly only good for the bugs and woodpeckers. Lovely lumber.
Walnut's my choice for exterior paintable. A dream to paint, just about won't rot and bugs don't like it. Also readily available kiln dried, if pricey.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
If they are in N NJ then they are going to have to wait awhile for the temp/ weather to be okay for them to paint. Making them is going to take some time too and while the pieces are in your warm shop they are going to dry at a decent rate.
Cedar, redwood or fir. Fir will not be as flat/ without undulations as the others. I have made shutters and louvered doors out of redwood and fir. The fir looks more rustic. I didn't want to paint the redwood. They looked too good.
Once you figure out the sequence and method of construction the the process turns into a Zen art of shutter making. Very relaxing.
As for finish, use an exterior stain. It seems to hold up much better. If you want something in high gloss, pick up a few gallons of alkyd paint in NY, just across the river. We have plenty.
F
true on all accounts! I'm not sure what my clients had in mind with these temps recently... but just glueing them up will be a challenge. I've used all three: cedar, redwood and fir. Redwood is my favorite. But it has to dry out and finding it that way in NJ is next to impossible. I am inclined to use clear fir. I can mill down to acceptable surface if i can get clear stock. Yes, i will take you up on the trip to NY!! good idea. thanks.
I've used a lot of redwood in numerous outdoor projects and love working with it. Oftentimes by hand-picking the lumber I am able to save money but cutting around the knots on contruction grade redwood with very little waste. I always prime it with an oil based (Benjamin Moore) primer followed by two coats of acrylic topcoat and it is holding up extremely well.
Stan
good point about the hand picking. I plan on using the oil primer and two top coats. Clients want them painted, not stained. thanks.