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MDF as a shop floor

| Posted in General Discussion on June 8, 2001 06:53am

*
I have a 2 car garage shop that has a concrete floor. I currently use foam mats at my machine areas and I have a 4×4 piece of 1/4″ mdf in front of the workbench. The mdf seems to work fine as a buffer between me and the concrete so I am considering getting rid of all the mats and putting down mdf throughout. My thought was to just tack it down at the corners with liquid nails. Any problems forseen with my plan? Moisture? I am in the Dallas area so long periods of heat are much more of an issue than cold.
Thanks, Keith

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  1. Pete_Draganic | Jun 06, 2001 08:11pm | #1

    *
    Moisture would seem to be a definite problem. Consider laying a vapor barrier first (ie plastic sheeting).

    Furthermore, I think that the MDF would disintegrate over time, leaving you with large dusty holes where you stand the most. I know it seems hard and dense but it is only compressed fibers and they will "decompress" after enough traffic on them.

    Pete

    1. piffin_ | Jun 07, 2001 12:34am | #2

      *MDF will definmitely not tolerate moisture in this situation. I also question whether it would be safe to have a floor surface as slick as this would be.

      1. Jim_Ryan | Jun 07, 2001 02:05am | #3

        *If you wanted to go to extremes, maybe rino liner will take to concrete. Just a thought, Jim Ryan

        1. Davo_ | Jun 07, 2001 08:17am | #4

          *Speaking of Rhino Liner......Anybody try it yet? My pickup has the ole plastic liner...been thinking of going to the Rhino. Does it actually hold up well?Davo.

          1. Davo_ | Jun 07, 2001 08:28am | #5

            *Keith,Our Machine Shop Dept used to have us carpenters come over and build wood platforms for them to stand on next to their machines. The platforms were simply a 2X4 framework with 3/4 plywood nailed on top.You could put down a framework with the 2xs laying flat....or else you could cut strips of 3/4 (or even 5/8) PT plywood and use as sleepers for the MDF (or use BC plywood, or even CDX in place of the MDF) The sleepers wood elevate your flooring to allow moisture to escape; if elevating is not a problem. It may be a trip hazard when working around some tools. Something to think about.About once a year, we would always have to return and tear up some of the plywood tops and re-install with new at the Machine Shop; due in part to wear-out caused by metal filings always getting rubbed into the wood...acted just like sandpaper.Davo.

          2. Bill_Hartmann | Jun 07, 2001 04:06pm | #6

            *DavoI have Line-X and only have 6000 miles on it does I don't know the long term. But 2 weeks ago I moved some rusted metal tanks that there so heavy that two of use lift one end in and then drug it in the rest of the way.After I washed out the rust you can just bearly see a mark and and that is paint from the tanks. I think a little more scrubing would get rid of that.As to the floor, how about plywood with a an 2nd layer of hardboard. That is dense and smooth.

          3. Chris_Koehn | Jun 07, 2001 06:25pm | #7

            *I have a floor I made out of MDF tiles for home shows I do a couple of times a year. I cut 1/4" in to 1 foot squares, and finished it with a brush on stain/urethane, which left a streaky grainy appearance, and which has protected it well. However, a twice a year show isn't like a shop floor in terms of usage..I inherited some wood shop mats from my dad. They are 1" X 4" blocks which are staggered and doweled together in to 3' X 4' mats. Work great, as theyr'e easy to lift up to sweep under. Wish I could find more- these are at least 30 years old..

          4. Keith_Rust | Jun 07, 2001 07:43pm | #8

            *Thanks for the feedback guys. I didn't consider traction as an issue before. As for wear and tear, my shop is one that gets only part-time (i.e. - hobbyist) use. Also, I can't build-up a floor and sacrifice even a couple of inches of overhead space. Getting sheet goods in and out is alreay a bear! Keith

          5. Tom_Moller | Jun 08, 2001 06:53am | #9

            *How about OSB? Not as slick. Much more durable. Available in 7/16 and 3/4 thick...maybe others.Any MDF, OSB, or Ply will soak up spills like oil or paint. I wouldn't put it under a car.Liquid nails will hold the OSB much better than MDF.Don't overdo it. A spot at each corner will be plenty...and then it's not too difficult to remove and replace if necessary. Use a sandbag or bucket of earth to weight it down until the glue sets.

  2. Keith_Rust | Jun 08, 2001 06:53am | #10

    *
    I have a 2 car garage shop that has a concrete floor. I currently use foam mats at my machine areas and I have a 4x4 piece of 1/4" mdf in front of the workbench. The mdf seems to work fine as a buffer between me and the concrete so I am considering getting rid of all the mats and putting down mdf throughout. My thought was to just tack it down at the corners with liquid nails. Any problems forseen with my plan? Moisture? I am in the Dallas area so long periods of heat are much more of an issue than cold.
    Thanks, Keith

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