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Yepper, I have used doors as discribed. MDF panels, styles and rails. Man are they heavy!!!! Also we had some problems with the hinge screws pulling out of the edge of the styles and/or splitting the styles. There is just so much weight there and the screw pilot holes need to be just the right size. Seems like a better door would be MDF panels with wood or laminated styles and rails. Painting MDF requires that you seal the raised or machined part of the panels and lightly sand it to get it to look as smooth as the flat part of the panel. Got to love the saw dust!!!
Good luck,
Dormer
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I HAVE USED THESE SOLID MDF DOORS A FEW TIMES ,GOOD AND BAD . 1 3/8 NO PROBLEM , NICE SOLID DOOR THAT FINISHED NICELY. 1 3/4 FORGET IT . A 2-6 6-8 DOOR MUST WEIGH 150 POUNDS . HAD ALOT OF TROUBLE WITH SCREWS PULLING OUT , HAD TO WES SYSTEM WOOD PLUGS INTO STYLES AND ADD EXTRA SCREWS TO STRIKE SIDE [WE TYP.SCREW JAMBS ] .THE 1 3/4 ALSO SWELLED BIG TIME , EACH DOOR WAS PLANED DOWN A COUPLE OF TIMES.,AFTER IT WAS PAINTED FUN FUN.
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I read with interest the article on interior doors in FHB awhile back.
I need to install a dozen painted doors next month, and have looked at MDF solid doors, with fingerjointed pine casings and jambs, and at ~30% less in cost they seem like a worthy competitor to pine-panel interior doors.
What do you all think about them - ever seen MDF doors damaged by moisture/liquid water, how are they to paint, how is quality control on them, any favorite brands, are they junk, etc. etc.
Thanks in advance -
Rich
*Rich, MDF is great in doors for paint grade. Never seen water damage on any but this could be a problem in a high water vapor location. Triming the bottoms is a little tricky and kicks up a lot of dust. Paint on edges has to sanded after priming due to "fuzz". All and all not to bad
*I've only used the style that has poplar rails and stiles and MDF raised panels. My only complaint is that I thought the "raised panel" was a bit skimpy, not as substantial (raised) as I would have liked. This is a totally MDF door that you're asking about? Never used those. Is wieght a factor with them?
*Rich,Most of the paint grade doors that we make at our shop are made as Mongo describes, MDF panels and poplar rails and styles. We also make rails and styles from laminated cores and veneers. These doors perform very well. I've never made one from "all" MDF. As mentioned, the weight would be a factor. Also MDF doesn't hold screws very well, so you would probably have to install grounds for the hinges.Joseph FuscoView Image
*On my current project, I have used a masonite covered six panel door style with what seems to be a sold core of pressed sawdust. The rails and styles are finger jointed pine. They look nice, paint easily if you spray, and have solid, sound deadening feel to them. I believe I gave about 50 to 60 dollars un-hung. The last six panel oak I used were about $200 pre-hung. These were a special deal and have solid rails and styles, no sawdust. I personally like value and would use the masonite style again.Dennis
*Prime, sand,prime,sand, and prime again any MDF edge that has been machined. Sanding sealer works great as 1st primer. Sand when still wet. MMMMM smooooooth. BB
*Yup Mongo- it's totally MDF. My very limited understanding is that they are solid MDF b moulded to appear to be a raised panel door, but are not composed of seperate stiles, rails, and panels. They have a nice hefty swing to them and sound solid, unlike the even more phoney moulded hollow doors, nor do they have phoney grain.I think that they must weigh more than pine doors. They are prehung. I'll take a closer look at the hinge attachment and weight next time I'm at the yard.I'm not fond of phoney 'look alikes', but these do look nice when painted, have nice characteristics (weight and sound), and gee, the price sure is right...
*Yepper, I have used doors as discribed. MDF panels, styles and rails. Man are they heavy!!!! Also we had some problems with the hinge screws pulling out of the edge of the styles and/or splitting the styles. There is just so much weight there and the screw pilot holes need to be just the right size. Seems like a better door would be MDF panels with wood or laminated styles and rails. Painting MDF requires that you seal the raised or machined part of the panels and lightly sand it to get it to look as smooth as the flat part of the panel. Got to love the saw dust!!!Good luck,Dormer
*Rich, just saw a solid MDF sample door, flush, no rails or stiles, 1 3/8" thick, and HEAVY! I saw what dormer is talking about. Maybe beef up the screws in the door, and firmly shim and screw the hinges through the jamb into the framing.This could be a great use for MDF. Be like shutting a bank vault.
*No experience with full size doors with MDF stiles, but one might want to consider using particle board screws as a substitute for regular wood screws, if you can find them big enough.They are engineered for better holding power in composite materials. The longer the better,
*yes, I have used these doors as well. Pressed saw dust indeed, have you ever seen one of these suckers after it gets wet, it looks like one of those sponge animals that grows when wet. finishing these are the winning aspect, after that the savings that you made per door could very easily be gone after the call backs make you replace one or two. The doors mentioned a little by other folks, made with poplar rails and stiles sound much better.
*I am sure if your reply was to my doors or not, but the ones I used did have some sort of finger jointed stiles and rails. As for the swelling, well, if I didn't do the roof, I guess I would just view it as a separate job. Time will tell, this is the first time I have used them, but I could re-hang them 2 additional times before I equalled the cost of my oak and I would hope that I wouldn't be that unlucky.Dennis
*I have had good luck priming MDF with auto primer. It has a lot of solids and sands well. I use a HVLP turbine sprayer. I then paint the door with a brush.L. Siders