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Discussion Forum

MDF in a bathroom?

Planeman | Posted in General Discussion on November 8, 2007 11:47am

Is it advisable to use MDF beadboard in a bathroom?  The beadboard will be up off the floor, primed and painted on all sides.  My lumberyard here in CA says “no problem”, but I have seen MDF swell up before and I’m concerned.  Not that it’s relavant, but this stuff is pricy, $30 for a 4 x 8 sheet.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

 

Experienced, but still dangerous!
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  1. splintergroupie | Nov 09, 2007 12:15am | #1

    I used some in a rental bathroom and it held up fine for several months. I sold the place, but i was in the apt again about two years later and it was still fine. One renter later, however, about 8' along one wall was swelled up. The worst area was under a window, but still---looks to me like they rigged a sprayer attached to the tub spout for taking showers, without using a shower curtain. OTOH, i think solid wood beadboard would have suffered a similar fate.

    It depends on whose bathroom it's going into. Moisture won't destroy it, but water will.

  2. woodroe | Nov 09, 2007 02:15am | #2

    There is a water resistant MDF. I recall it being made by or called Medex. It is rated for exterior applications, and would be the right thing to use in a damp location like a bathroom.

  3. RichardH | Nov 09, 2007 05:59am | #3

    The only MDF that I have ever put in a bathroom was crown molding. It was primed on all sides, attached, caulked all around, then covered with 2 coats of semi-gloss latex paint. That was 3 years ago and it still looks fine.

    I am currently making a lot of Craftsman style moldings using 1/2", 3/4" and 1" MDF. (It's straight, stable, and priced right.) For the window stool and the moldings beneath that, I am applying a generous coat of Watco oil, followed by primer all around. This may be overkill, but I do not want problems later on. Would I go this far in a bathroom? I would probably skip the Watco but I would still prime all sides. Of course, I expect people to properly ventilate these areas and to not have water fights in there as well. I can protect against a lot of things, but not stupidity.

    Richard Hussey

    1. Planeman | Nov 09, 2007 06:44am | #4

      Thanks, I am using primed and painted MDF on all my interior window treatments for over 5 years now and never a problem.  I do have a new Panasonic bath fan going in that is rated at twice the size of the room, so venting should be good.  I will go over the factory prime with two coats, then the finish coat.  Thanks for the input.

       Experienced, but still dangerous!

      1. jimblodgett | Nov 09, 2007 09:01am | #5

        I use MDF in lots of applications, but not wet ares if I can avoid it.  Can't you find a similar beadboard in plywood?  Or real beaded boards?  Is there some reason the MDF is your first choice?Loren Wallace for president.

        1. User avater
          jarhead2 | Nov 09, 2007 09:08am | #6

          beadboard in plywood? 

          I just put a bunch up myself. 4X8's.

          I stained the stuff I put on the ceilings and painted the walls. I was tickled pink when I found the 4X8 sheets because when I first started using beadboard I used those individual slats.....A serious pain in the azz.   :-) 

           

           

           

          “Some people wonder all their lives if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem.”                Reagan....

          Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavor. -Truman Capote

        2. Planeman | Nov 09, 2007 08:40pm | #7

          The MDF is all my local yard stocks, plywood is available on special order at twice the price, $58/sheet.  The rep claims it will be fine if primed and painted and the room is ventilated.

           Experienced, but still dangerous!

          1. Adrian | Nov 09, 2007 09:06pm | #8

            I wouldn't have any hesitation as long as it's primed on all usrfaces, but I would make sure the beadboard doesn't go right to the floor just in case. I used to use solid wood beadboard, now if it's paint it's MDF...I use 1/2" by 6" shiplap planks, they come in 8' lengths, preprimed. Very nice.

             Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.

          2. Dave45 | Nov 10, 2007 03:44am | #10

            It should work ok if you prime the back and ALL edges.  If you have (and use) good ventilation, don't let water splash all over it, and paint out any dings ASAP, it should last for a long time.

          3. Sbds | Nov 10, 2007 04:02am | #11

            I would use Azek. you will not have any problems.http://www.azek.com/info.php?product=4

  4. User avater
    DDay | Nov 10, 2007 01:28am | #9

    Your best bet is Azek but if you think $30/sheet is expensive, Azek might not be an option. I assume this is a full bath. How much use will it get? Like a few said, I would really look for another option first, anything in fir available in your area?

  5. lmarletto | Nov 10, 2007 04:33am | #12

    We have MDF beadboard in our MB. It's pieces with 4 or 5 "slats" per piece rather than 4x8 sheets. After 4 years, it shows no wear or water effects. We had one minor flood which dripped into the room below, but left no evidence where the water flowed between the baseboard and the tile floor. As I recall, behind the (pine) baseboard, it's about 1/2" above the floor. In daily use, its only water exposure is humidity. I'd use it again. It's a dream to paint.

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