I’m planning on using a small spare room as a walkin closet/dressing room.Thinking about using MDF for the shelving and vertical dividers. The shelves will be 12 and 15 inches deep. Various spans will be roughly 35,42, and 50″. They will be supported with 1×2 cleats at the back along the wall,and on the sides at the vertical dividers.I’d like to add a 1×2 or 1×3 to the face of the shelf to finish off the edge of the mdf and also to help keep the shelf from sagging.
Problem is I’ve never worked with MDF. I was thinking of using biscuits to join the 1x to the edge of the shelf. Any issues with the MDF swelling from the glue. The 50″ span is probably a bit much without a divider in the middle,but will I have any problems with the 35″ and 42″ shelves sagging? There’ll be about 10″ of space from one shelf to the next,so there shouldn’t be all that much weight on them.
Is it possible to rip MDF into strips and use it on the face instead of the 1x? It seems like it would not offer the support of solid wood, but like I said ,I’ve never worked with it so I don’t know for sure.
So aside from the weight of the material and dust issues,is there any thing else I should be aware of while working with MDF. Mostly concerned with sagging and method of putting it together. Any heads up would be appreciated. Thanks -jim
Replies
MDF will work ok for the vertical members. Cleats on 3 sides is a good idea. Solid wood front edging will add strength. Even so, I would not go more than 36" wide with mdf shelving.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
All sounds fine. I've used biscuits even pocket screws. As for the shelves longer than 32" you need to consider the use. If this is for books than I'd stay at 32"max. If you are only building chatski shelving than wide might be ok but they will bow.
Consider if you do go past 32" to rabbit the front style into the shelf. Also you can set into a dado 2/3's back a 1 1/4" strip down it's length. Some will make a saw kerf and insert a 1" aluminum strip along the length of the shelf.
I have used MDF for just about everything and this being for yourself go for it, MDF is cheap.
MDF is, IMO, way to limber for shelves and 1x2 is not stiff enough to brace it much,
They sell glued-up wood shelving at HD and Lowes that is way stiffer. You can get it in 3/4" and 1 1/8" thickness in widths up to 23" IIRC.
Better yet, take a look at the Sagulator at this link.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm
Why not use White Melamine then put and edge on the same .
To answer your question of mdf edge band , if you glue and pin or fasten the pieces and say one on the back as well they should help with sagging . Those are some long spans with a little extra support you can live with them .
dusty
thanks for the replies. -jim
I'd second that.....a facing of melamine or better yet veneer on both sides adds a great deal of stiffness, also it's finished and easy to clean....then the solid wood edgeing on the front (back too if you want), and you have a decent shelf. Keep the spans down....50" is too long ofr any material.
Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.
Yeah, I knew 50 was going to be too long. I was planning on splitting the span in half. I'm liking the idea of melamine rather than having to prep and paint a bunch of mdf. Thanks to all. -jim
Hey, GuysI have always used the 30#, 30", rule of thumb for bookshelves. So when faced with a whole bookstore (114 cases total) with most of the spans in the 36" - 48" range, I knew I was in trouble. That's when I discovered 1 1/4" hardwood ply. Great stuff. I think Columbia Mills makes it.It's hard to find sometimes, but it really frees you up. The first time I used it, I farmed out the veneer edgebanding. The second time, I bought a powerfeed edgebander, with end trimmers, and top and bottom flush-trim routers. Click, whirr, snap. 14fpm. $5,700 out the door. I love it.AitchKay