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mdf wainscot in bathroom

CCI | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 12, 2005 04:21am

I am finishing a powder room and will use mdf wainscot on the walls.  I read some previous discussions and it seems that mdf is the way to go.  It is being installed over new greenrock (moisture resistant).  I guess I should prime all sides before installation just to be safe.  My question is how to install.  It is a complete “system” from Home Depot.  The bottom rail has a dado to receive the vertical precut boards and a top cap with dado fits over the boards.  Should I finish nail the bottom rail, slide in the boards and finish nail the top rail to the studs (16″ oc) or should I glue the boards to the greenrock.  If I glue the boards should I prime the greenrock first or not.  If I don’t glue the boards they can “float” but will they warp?  I have never used mdf before and want to do it right.  Since it is a powder room moisture is not as big a factor but it is in a basement.

Thanks.

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  1. User avater
    JDRHI | Apr 12, 2005 04:43pm | #1

    Hey Chris.....quick question.....has the green rock been installed yet?

    I prefer to attach wainscotting to a solid backing....plywood, firring strips, what have you. I don`t like to rely on "glue" (construction adhesive), on its own.

    I also wouldn`t worry about back priming in this instance.....humidity should not be a factor, and MDF is much more stable than natural wood.

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    1. CCI | Apr 12, 2005 06:58pm | #3

      Thanks for the reply.  There is nothing but studs in place and I can block between them or install plywood behind the greenrock.  If I do the plywood what is the minimum thickness?  Is 1/4" ok or does it need more mass to hold the finish nails.  This is a spare bathroom in the basement for the kids to use.  It will not see heavy use but I don't want it to fall apart either.  Thanks.

      1. User avater
        JDRHI | Apr 12, 2005 08:15pm | #4

        Open wall...Great!

        I wouldn`t block between the studs, but rather over them. I would install the drywall from the ceiling down, to just an inch or two below where you plan on running your wainscotting up to. (i.e. If you`ve got 8' ceilings and plan to cap wainscotting at 5' high, I`d sheetrock the upper 3' 2" of wall space.) I`d cover the lower portion of the wall with either 1/2" plywood (same thickness as rock), or run firring strips horizontally every eight inches from the bottom of the sheetrock down to floor. Do without sheetrock behind the wainscotting and nail directly into the plywood or firring strips. I prefer plywood, only because it does give you a solid surface to which you can glue (construction adhesive) the wainscotting to.

        Here`s a pic.....hope it helps.

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        1. CCI | Apr 12, 2005 09:38pm | #5

          Thanks, that makes sense.  Now one more question - what should I do about insulation/vapor barrier behind the walls.  One wall abuts finished heated space, one wall abuts the utility room w/ boiler and water heater and the other 2 walls are held away from the poured concrete foundation walls by 8" on one wall and 3 feet on the other.  The foundation is dry and has been coated with a sealer/paint just in case.  The rest of the basement is finished w/ insulation and a poly vapor barrier and has been dry and no mildew.  Should I bother insulating or just leave it alone. The finished bathroom will have a fan vent to outside.

          Thanks again.

          1. User avater
            JDRHI | Apr 13, 2005 01:11am | #6

            You should be fine just insulating the walls to the exterior...which is one of the reasons I don`t block between the studs.

            ATTENTION FELLOW BREAKTIME MEMBERS:<!----><!---->

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  2. nikkiwood | Apr 12, 2005 05:04pm | #2

    We just installed this same stuff (from HD) for a bathroom remodel.

    As the other poster said, it's better if you install nailers between the studs prior to sheetrocking. But it is not really necessary.

    We ran a bead of construction adhesive over each piece, pressed it against the wall, held it in place with 2 staples at the top (where it would be covered by the cap rail. If you don't use construction adhesive, the stuff will start to flop around in time.

    As far as priming the wall is concerned, it is probably a good idea, but again it is not really necessary. The adhesive will pull off the paper (from the sheetrock), however, if you ever remove the wainscoting.

    "I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
    -- Bertrand Russell

  3. MSA1 | Apr 13, 2005 05:05am | #7

    I used MDF for wainscoting in my powder room over a year ago. Three kids a wife and a cat have not been able to hurt it yet.:>)

    No moisture problems either.

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