Mechanics of the perfect hammer swing
I was banging a lot of nails into joist hangers this weekend when the palm nailer went south and it got me thinking… Golfers are always analyzing every aspect of their swing in the interest of improving accuracy and shaving a stroke here and there. Have any of you ever worked on your hammer swing with the same consideration?
I would be interested in hearing about the mechanics of a good hammer swing from those of you who have it down to a science. For example, I’ve always looked at the point where the nail penetrates the board rather than the head of the nail. What do the rest of you focus on? I like to lean my nails forward slightly to catch a better angle on the downstroke if I can…
Well, you get the idea… I’m just looking for tricks to improve one of the most repetitive actions I do when I’m working on the house. my performance this weekend would suggest I could use a pointer or two. :-)>
So how about it- what are the mechanics of “your” perfect hammer swing?
Kevin Halliburton
“I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity.” – I.M. Pei –
Replies
I try to avoid any of my fingers or thumb. Especially when using waffle head.
Interesting question, thinking of the "How to ring the bell" technique of shortening the radius of the swing as you connect in the thread about where to get parts for the carnival thingee.
Paslode nailer is the best answer......
Joe H
I have to agree with joe, I find it much more enjoyable, and less painfull , when i avoid my thunb.Where there's A wheel there's a way, got any wheels?
What do the rest of you focus on
Avoiding a painful rxperience.
I have noticed that American hammers are totally different than British or Oz ones. We tend to have a much shorter handle and a much heavier head -- my favorite is a 24 oz Stanley with a wooden handle -- dates me, huh --- so the swing is a lot different.
I watch the point, not the head. Nail angled away from me and when face-nailing flooring it's Tap, Bang, Bang.
IanDG
Edited 8/25/2003 1:27:54 PM ET by IanDG
I like to lean my nails forward slightly to catch a better angle on the downstroke if I can...
I do this as well. Over the years I've had to change my swing from a firm wrist snap at contact, to a full arm swing with a loose wrist. This has allowed distribution of the force from my wrist to my forearm.
I hold the hammer as far down the handle as the hammer allows. While it might sound a weaker hit, it isn't.
This full arm swing requires a little more accuracy and attention but actually gives greater force to nailing. This is especially good when framing. I used to sink a 16d in 3-4 strokes where now when I get in the Zen of framing I average 2-3 licks.
When using finish nails I fall back to my old habits. Force usually isn't helpful when driving a 4d finish nail.
The best way though is pnuematic, God bless air guns.
I try to use less elbow movement and more wrist movement. The wrist should be loose, I think - No death grip on the handle. (Try telling a guy on the jobsite that he should be limp wristed)
I think JoeH is right in saying the swing should be eliptical - You pull the handle towards you at the last minute.
I try to avoid driving nails in high wind, where the wind might blow the head off course and I'd hit my finger or thumb..............(-:
Practice safe eating - always use condiments.
I use a rubber handled hammer in high winds. This way the hammer deflects the same as the nail, can't miss.
Besides, it doesn't matter, as my dad always said,
"They hold better when you bend-em!"
Boss, I thought you'd say, "nails? I only use those large tie plates and we put them in with a press . . ."Steelkilt Lives!
Not doing as much hand-nailing these days as I used to, but I must admit to nagging at greenhorns about the mechanics of their nailing until I harrass them into doing it my way. When nailing siding, decking and any other type of finish work, it's vital that the hammer face be parallel with the surface when it contacts the head of the nail, otherwise, you'll end up with an ugly half-moon indentation on the final stroke or upon a mis-hit. I also seem to use my forearm much more than my wrist or shoulder when nailing. I try to finish each stroke with my forearm parallel with the nailing surface.
Angling the nails away from you is one thing I nag against for 2 reasons, the first being that I think it's dangerous, since it greatly increases the incidence of nails flying in your face. (During my first year of carpentry, one of the guys on our crew blasted a 16d c.c. sinker into the center of his eye. I've never been able to shake that image. Quite an argument for protective eyewear.) The other reason is, as mentioned in the first paragraph, I don't like half-moons much, even when framing.
I've always used a 16 oz. smooth face finish hammer and a 22 oz. waffle face framer, both Plumb fiberglass, which seem to fit my style of nailing pretty well. Most framers around here seem to use Vaughn 28 oz. (or sometimes Hart), but this is just too heavy for me. I end up choking up on the handle, which obviously defeats the whole purpose of the added weight. I also use a baseball bat-type grip as opposed to the thumb-on-the-handle grip a lot of guys use. It takes awhile to get used to, but seems to give me more power and control per stroke.
Having said all that, however, I realize that I'm coming at the question from a finish carpenter's point of view, which is surely different than a production framer's.
Good points and very interesting... I can see that different types of hammering would require completely different techniques. Could we refer to finish nailing as the "short game" in the golf analogy?
About that final set with the hammer face flush - One of the things I really like about the Douglas framer I'm using is the "D" shaped head. On the final "set" stroke I roll the hammer face forward just a little bit and counter sink the nail head with the outer corner.
It's real clean... when I don't miss. :-)>
As to more nails deflecting toward you with the nail leaning away, I would think that forward lean would actually help prevent that since misses would tend to be on the back side of the nail causing it to "ping" forward rather than over-strike misses which tend to cause the nail to "ping" back at you.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Another method of nailing is to use a pea shooter.
Sometimes in form work you'll have to nail in the bottom of the form. You almost always have rebar in the way. With no room to swing a hammer a pea shooter works best.
I don't know if any now makes them for sale. Mine is 25 years old. It's a 1/4" dia tube about 24" long. I have a slightly small diameter shaft that goes inside. At the top of the shaft I have a 6" by 1 1/4"dia. chunk of steel wielded on.
You slide the shaft back, insert a nail, place in position and bang that sucker in.
I have used this in hundreds of other situations. It has been a major bu** saver.
I had two spots I would have really been glad to have that little tool on this weekend.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
I too like to use a heavier hammer and hold the handle short. Maybe astigmatic people can judge the stroke better this way? Or maybe an old habit from forge work blacksmithing. There you don't have that much room, on the normally high stands, to use a long handled strike.
On the other hand, with a big sledge hammer (was preparing a panel today for welding and needed to bend the ends of the transverse galvanized pipe some for a better fit) a long handled all out swing works best. Those pipes were on the floor.
To hammer nails in corrugated metal, I use pliers/small vicegrips to hold the nails. Seems slower but you can sink a nail quicker and it is faster than stopping to retrieve flying nails and blow on mashed fingers.<g>
I do use a pair of long needle nosed pliers for holding 1" roofing nails. My fingers are just beefy enough that I have to mash them slightly every time I start one of those little suckers.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Palm up..
Nail between fingers of choice....
Must be an archy on the job....
Even gotta show 'em hold on to a nail...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Good grief - did I come off that goofy? :-)>
Palm up - holding the nail like a cancer stick is exactly how I do it. It's just that smacking a 1" nail hard enough to get it to stay standing when I pull my wedged fingers out from under it will almost always mash those fingers a little. After a few dozen the problem is exacerbated by the fact that my fingers are now swollen to twice their normal size.
And another thing - Unless your a gorilla nose, swollen fingers make it kinda hard to keep the air intake clean too...Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
here's a free hint, if you're smashing your digits and you have the clearence, bump it up to 1 1/4"
what are you using the roofers for?
The nose picking comment you're on your own.
Guess you been watching your son do it, and it looked cool again? :)Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professionals built the Titanic.
Well, let's see - before this weekend, the last time I used 1" nails was for attaching drip edge if I remember correctly. I've been known to hang tar paper with them when the stapler gave out too. I seem to always have a bunch left over because I usually sink a few then go buy a longer nail so they tend to serve as back-ups mostly.
For example, this weekend I used a few in some of my joist hangers when I ran out of 1 1/2" nails. The strapping detail I'm using to tie my top and bottom Structural insulated panels together will pin the decking and joists between the panels and prevent any potential up-lift problems so the hangers were mostly just there to carry the rafters. In that scenario the 1" nails were acceptable going into the side of the joists.
Actually, I could have probably just saved myself a lot of grief and skipped those nails altogether but, if there is a hole in the hanger I have this unexplainable need to put a nail in it. Oh well, I'll feel better about myself for years to come knowing there aren't any open holes in the joist hangers behind my sheetrock.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
The nose picking comment you're on your own.
Guess you been watching your son do it, and it looked cool again? :)
Are you kidding me? Who do you think taught him that little technique? What else are Dad's good for anyway? :-)>Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
I think it's disgusting to pick your nose - so I just use the ol carpenter's blow, you know, hang your head off the side of the building, plug one nostril and just let er fly!
my wife doesn't like it much when I do it tho.
Don't forget to yell, "FORE!"
Now I know where you got that handle of yours... Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Yup.....
Got to be an archy...
1" roofers on hangers.....
Oh well,,, his house.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Like I said, if the nails had any bearing at all on the structural integrity of the house I would have made the 50 minute round trip to get the right ones. In this case, it really didn't matter.
The 2x12 joists use overhang joist hangers that nail into the top plate with 2- 10's on the top and 2- 10's on the front. They are glued on the ends to the SIP panels with structural adhesive and a panel screw is run through the panels into the end grain about 1 1/2" from the bottom of the joist to cinch it up tight and hold it nice and straight. The joists then get pinned to the top plate with the 7/8" OSB that runs all the way to the outside face of the wall and bears on both sheets of OSB on the panels. The whole mess is then further locked down with lag bolts run through the base plate of the upstairs walls. The downstairs top plate is then mechanically fastened to the upstairs base plate with straps and 10's at 48" O.C..
So you see, the fasteners poked into the sides of the joists in this detail are completely irrelevant. Still, I'll feel better knowing the holes are filled with those little 1" pieces of tin.
Now that's an architect for ya - or, more accurately, an architectural intern. I'm not fully licenced to completely overkill these types of attachments yet. :-)>Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Use your little fingers.
A good heart embiggins even the smallest person.
Quittin' Time
After a couple dozen hammer blows, I don't have any little fingers...Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Index and middle finger for holding roofers and the little finger for air cleaner service.
"...swollen fingers make it kinda hard to keep the air intake clean too..."
Reminds me of this tag line:Q: Why do gorillas have big nostrils?A: Because they have big fingers.
Nobody mentioned one of the best training techniques, used on me by an uncle in Springfield in the 50's. 8d finishing nails into oak with GREASED hammer head - you learn to hit straight real quick or not at all.
Nail angle: As I am placeing the nail, I observe the wire edges of the four corners of the point, setting those two edges across the grain of the wood. This reduces splitting and I think it improves holding power.
When deciding what angle to drive the nail, I first look at the application then adjust only as needed for hammering.
Two examples; When sistering two pieces at 8"OC I will angle the nails closest to one edge with the head at about 15° away from me at 16"OC the length of the sister, turn around, and repeat for the other run, staggering the 16"OC to give a result of 8"OC and half the nails at an opposing angle to the other half.
When nailing a plate to studs, I will angle the right hand (I am RH'ed) nail from the top down (15°) and from the extended edge of the stud, in to the center (15°) of the stud, the LH, bottom nail will be angled 15° towards the center of the stud, a slight compromise for ease of nailing.
Focus: I haven't tried focusing on the point, yet. I focus on the head as it helps in my mental imagery, although I can see where focusing on the point would also help there. I will have to try it and see which works better.
Mental imagery: As I swing my sweet Hart, I keep an image of the center of the hammer face, the nail head, and the surface of the wood, all in intimate contact. In other words, the result I want.
Grip: Hold the end of the handle with the end swell just at the bottom of your fist, not too tightly, and with the thumb wrapped around the handle. For an example of how NOT to hold it, watch any of the 'home improvement' shows, especially the one with the cute blonde.
Swing: There are three parts to a full-on, drive-it-home-with-one-blow swing.
1] The wrist; Used almost exclusively when drywalling and setting other small nails (=< 6d).
2]The wrist and elbow, used for medium nails, 6d to 8d, and in tight quarters.
3] the wrist, elbow, and shoulder, used with =>8d nails and in almost all framing.
Practice:Wrist technique; Place a 4x on a bench about elbow high. Set your elbow on the 4x and hold your wrist lightly with your off hand. This is to isolate the wrist from the elbow and shoulder. Using just the wrist, little finger, and the web of the thumb to swing the hammer, while concentrating on your mental image, drive 10 8d's home. Don't worry about power at this time.
Elbow technique; Same setup, but this time put a pad under your elbow and use 16d's. Again, concentrate on your mental imagery and not power. Be sure to incorporate the wrist technique into your swing. The shoulder movement and the wrist movement should happen together. Your grip should grip should be loose until just as the hammer head contacts the nail. That fist tightening is what really transfers power to the nail.
Shoulder technique; First, place the hammer head on the wood surface, as if you had just completed your swing, fist tight, wrist extended, elbow almost completely, but not quite straightened. Take note of the angle made by your upper arm to torso. Call this angle the trigger angle.
Hold the hammer over your shoulder as if ready to swing. Note the angle between your upper and lower arm's and the position (right angle) of your wrist. Call these the L-prep position.
Maintain the L-prep postion of your wrist and elbow until you reach the trigger angle, then commence the wrist-elbow swing. Once you are comfortable with the timing, work everything into one smooth movement.
If you have ever cracked a whip or wet towel, you already have the movements down. For advanced practice you can set 10 nails and rapidly try to drive each home with one blow, or grab a stick of airgun nails and see how many you can get knocking one at a time off the stick.
Yeah, I've spent a lot of slack time thinking about and practicing hammer techniques, or can you tell? I always wanted to make a video of this and send it to those HI guys and girls on tv.
I have found that this technique has kept me from getting carpal tunnel like I used to do when I started framing. I think two reasons are that there is no overextending involved and that I never have to use maximum strength to drive a nail home.
SamT
Sam,
That is precisely what I was looking for - Excellent post!Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Why, thank you,sir.
SamT
Great explanation and example of how to drive a nail. I can't say I've ever gone to the extremes you have Sam to practise the proper way to swing.
I've just been swinging the dang thing like a gorilla and try my best to hit what I'm aiming at. Could have something to do with why my right forearm is bigger than my left.
Never actually sat down and tried to improve my stroke.
Most you guys know I love to swing and collect hammers.
I've always held them tight, and held them at the end of the handle unless I'm doing finish work, then I only use 1/2 of the handle length, always watching where the countersink meets the nail, not where the hammer meets the countersink, oddly enough I've never missed the countersink and hit my hand.
Good post, always interesting to hear how you other sawdust sniffers and hand bangers are putting it together.
.
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
Great explanation and example of how to drive a nail. I can't say I've ever gone to the extremes you have Sam to practise the proper way to swing.
Like I said, a lot of slack time on that job. I was hired as a carp-helper and had 2 carps working for me on my 4 man crew. I naver really practised before that, just analyzed what I was doing as I did it and tried it out, but my men were asking me how I could drive nails so well, so I had to come up with a way to train them.
I was taking all their money betting $5 on 5 (set) nails in 5 swings. Of course I know all of you know how to SET and SINK a nail in one stroke of the hammer.
SamT
Of course I know all of you know how to SET and SINK a nail in one stroke of the hammer.
Piece of cake! It's called the Stanley/Bostich N80 technique. Doesn't work on hangers though.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
It does work on hangers ,the good old N80 , I have done it . It took a little practice and a couple of misguided nails . Some actualy came out the hole on the other side and then I clinched them over .
Not on a dare with a full protective face shield and a suit of armor...Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
One other point of ponder that SamT's nailing tip about aligning the point with the grain inspired - I believe hand driven nails have more holding strength than their wire pneumatic counterparts. What say ye of greater experience?Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Have to agree with you Kevin. The ones that are hand driven are strong than the machine counter parts. The house that I am remodeling right now was hand built and some of the nails that were driven nearly 100 years ago are stronger than the air driven ones I have seen in ohter houses.
Kevin
So far I like Joe's answer best.
I used to build a house for habitat each year and there was this old carpenter(70+) that would show up, he would swing that hammer all day long, just a nice steady swing. Guys that were one-third his age would be petered out by noon.
I used to watch him so I could do it like he did, then figured what the hell, I got air guns, don't need to do it like him.
Doug
My appologies if this issue seems like hijacking your thread!
When I was doing carpentry for a living, my right hand was sort of "permanently" swollen. If I matched up my index knuckles on my right and left hands and then rolled the knuckles across each other, my right hand was about 3/8" wider across the knuckles than my left. After 8 years of not doing carpentry for a living, the right is just about 1/8" wider.
Do you who still drive nails (and shoot them) find you have some similar "swelling" or was I not swinging in the best manner, thus slightly injuring myself?
Kevin, I wish someone had taken time to explain to me that there might be a better way to swing a hammer twenty-five years ago! My shoulder still gets sore at the slightest provocation...
Any jackass can kick down a barn, but it takes a carpenter to build one.
---"My shoulder still gets sore at the slightest provocation..."---
Shoulder? It is my elbow that hurts if I spend all day hammering. That I dislocated it once, grabbing a kid that was sliding off a horse and landed on my arm doesn't help.
Maybe there is something about using the right technique... hammering, not catching kids.
Maybe if we all voted for enough Democrats we could get a study done on hammer swinging... Gotta spend those tax dollars, you know! ; )Any jackass can kick down a barn, but it takes a carpenter to build one.
When I get hammer pain, it is tendonitios in my forearm to wrist, usually after framing for a couple of weeks which doesn't happen much anymore.
For framing, I use either an estwing or a wood handled Plumb. I end up with the handle sliding down to where I am holding the tail with thumb and two fingers. She gets a little shoulder, a little more elbow, and plenty of wrist snap. Two shots and in.
For Roofing, it's all in the wrist, well maybe 15% in the elbow. I've known guys that I could see working from the elbow with that forearm cranking up and down all day and they always cry about elbow pain anfter a while. A roof takes a lot of nails.
Set and slam, Set and slam.
Go up to 1-1/2" nails and maybe an extra slam.
but for roofing, if you can get your fingers working the nails out quick enough, the hammer/hatchet is bouncing up and starting to fall down again on it's own. natural rhythym.
I definitely agree that the nail needs to driven with head parallell for finish work. That gets a lot more elbow/forearm from me for control..
Excellence is its own reward!
I had to skip alot, with the nose picking conversations and all, but Boss pretty much gave you the best tip.
Lose the death grip, keep a light grip on the handle and tap bang bang. 3 bangs you better squat. If you are working that hammer, you are going to be be hurting.
I'd like to see Piff put some nails to it, it is a rhythm, and it it sweet. Guys, you have to see a nailing machine in action...
Ps. Kevin, you got that frame up yet, sipboy? You are set up to learn a lesson on this one! Save me from the value of sips, I am not impressed. Get your fingers out and make the best of this one.
First floor is done and several sheets of decking down for the second floor. I would be standing SIPs on the second floor already if I hadn't taken a full weekend to do a couple of sixteen foot trailer loads of demo on a high school remodel my firm is updating. They insisted on making it look like a brand new school and code officials insisted everything being brought up to fire code standards, including all those solid oak rail and stile doors in the hallways.
Early 1900's - tons of really nice solid oak doors and heart pine trim and flooring. Worth the delay for sure.
So far I haven't learned any lessons I've regretted. Yes, it's taking longer than I expected but I pretty much expected that. :-)> It took an entire first floor to get the dust knocked off my framing skills and learn the SIPs. Second floor is gonna go much faster.
That is, if I don't get hit with another wave of extreme overtime here at the office and rain every day I have off again. :-)>
Seriously, I'm having a ball building this house. Attitude is a choice man - mine's still in pretty good shape at the moment.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
WA >>> "Yes, it's taking longer than I expected but I pretty much expected that."
You are too funny, I may steal that one.
I'm just worried about the amount of time this frame is left exposed, that is never a good thing.
Good point, and one I've been thinking about a lot. I will be wrapping all of the exterior panels I have standing with tar paper this weekend but that still leaves the interior walls and frame exposed. I am determined to have all of the second floor SIPs standing before I come back to work next Tuesday.
I'm the worlds worst at asking for help but I've managed to round up a couple of friends for Saturday. With their help and the aid of the duck jack I will be able to put the gable walls together on the deck and stand them in one piece. That will speed things up quite a bit. The second floor deck is also dead level and I don't have any bump-outs or steel columns to work around like I did on the first floor. Perhaps most importantly, I know a little more about what I'm doing now.The second floor will go up in a couple of days - I guarantee it! :-)>
I will post the picks of the progress next week.Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
I don't think I would paper the walls until you cap the place, probably more trouble than it is worth at this point. Well to be honest, I doubt I would use felt at all, (I have a scheme up my sleeve, to be cont.).
Good luck with the weather, and attendance. ;-)
I'll be interested in hearing about your sleeve scheme... Weather man says there is a pretty good chance of rain all weekend. I'm gonna find that guy and he isn't going to enjoy meeting me!
All I can say is, if it's raining all weekend, I hope that structural adhesive will still hold cause it's going together one way or another!
Might have some bearing on how willing my help is to stick around though.
Dadgum 10 year drought only lets up when I have a string of consecutive days to really get some momentum going.
Oh yea, wanted to tell you that I took your advice on putting down decking from a way back thread and skipped the screws. A thin bead of PL Premium and 8D ringshanks going much faster. Ah-pree-shate-cha!Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
I could have told you it was going to rain, oh well, they don't call it a duck jack for nuttin.
Btw, thanks, I wasn't going to get in enough trouble for the felt thing and you bring up nails vs screws. You keep opening worm bags and I'm getting my fishing pole out.
Just building the fire... when you catch it - I'll grill it. Everyone else can pick whatever bones are left over. :-)>Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Use PL Premium fro adhesive. It is polyurethene and is moisture cure so rain shouldn't hurt unless it is actually running a river of water over you.
Excellence is its own reward!
I start out avoiding my thumb and fingers, and end up wonder what I was thinking.....should have used the electric drill driver and screws!
joist hangers are a PITA. i am not even going to give advice there. one thing i will give advice on though is framing. i notice when i do a lot of framing i get a huge callous on the last digit of my little finger. i also twist the hammer in my hand, since i am right handed, the hammer gets a twist to the left.
when you are framing you are standing bent over balancing on the studs. if you are standing correctly your knees are bent and you are in a semi-squat position. you may find this to be an un-bearable position and are putting your left elbow on your knee, but that is bad mechanics, the elbow can rest there between driving strokes, until you build the stamina, but should come off for driving strokes. this(knees bent) is key to saving the back as well as driving nails with maximum speed/efficiency. use the large muscles of the hips and thighs, and save the back, elbow, and wrist.
the act swinging a hammer (in framing setting the 16D with a tap, and sending it home with "A" stroke) is like throwing a rock or ball attached to a stick. the same way a pitcher uses his lower body and twisting torso to increase the velocity of the ball coming out of his hand. i find my left elbow and shoulder leading the way. at the moment of impact on the driving stroke you let go of the stick and just ride it for a second with little finger, catching it when it bounces up, and using that momentum to raise it back for the next tap. I also use the rhythm method and keep the hammer going, usually, set nail, stroke to drive nail, tap hammer on plate, repeat.
proper technique, ergonomics, and stamina are the ingredients of the recipe for success in driving nails without destroying your body. when you try with strength to overcome bad form is when you will hurt yourself.
Well said.
Anybody ever watch the Taunton videos on framing with Larry Haun and his brother? Tap, Bang - Tap, Bang - Tap, Bang! Those two are artists man!
Work like that fascinates me - I could sit and watch it for hours. :-)>Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -