Replies

1. 
   MojoMan | Jan 22, 2004 04:09pm | #1

   Unless you have something special in mind, I think this would be an unusual use for this product. It's heavy and the joints and fastener holes would still need filling. Most ceilings are still done with drywall. Can you give more details?

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   Cygnus22 | Jan 22, 2004 04:14pm | #2

   We want a beadboard look that will wear well.

1. 
   Shep | Jan 22, 2004 05:39pm | #3

        I'm not sure I would use MDF on a ceiling, but if you intend to, here's a few tips.

      1. It generates a ton of dust when cutting. Use a mask, cut outside, do something so you don't have to deal with the dust.

      2. Prime and seal all edges and faces before installation. This stuff is very stable, but can easily absorb moisture. Priming is cheap insurance to make your job last.

      3. Personally, I would strap the ceiling  with 1x3 at 12" on center. This will help keep your MDF ceiling flatter, since I think it might have a tendency to bow in larger spans. Also, glue and nail the panels to the strapping.

     4. If you haven't already, get some help to put the sheets up. Even the thinner panels are heavy.

   I'll be interested to find out how it comes out. Let us know, please. Maybe you can post some pictures.

2. 
   MojoMan | Jan 22, 2004 06:17pm | #4

   Are you planning to use MDF beadbord, rather than sheets? That's a different story. The above advice is sound. Priming is a good idea as this stuff sucks up paint. Allow it to dry thoroughly before installation so the joints don't open up as it dries. As with any bathroom, be sure you have a good fan and use it to control humidity.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

2. 
   davidmeiland | Jan 22, 2004 07:08pm | #5

   In my opinion MDF is not a good choice when there are going to be a bunch of fasteners in an exposed face. Nails from a gun will leave little burrs on the surface that you'll have to sand off. Screws will have to be carefully countersunk. 3/4" MDF weighs about 100 lbs/sheet. I would absolutely find some beadboard plywood and use that instead.

   MDF is a great product for cabinet panels, and I guess I've used a little bit for baseboard, but that's it.

   Edit: I'll add for the hell of it that our entire house--100% of the walls and ceilings--is 5/8" t&g VG fir beaded paneling. All of it has been rocked over or wallpapered over. At some point I'm going to find a wall or two, and maybe a lid, and expose/restore the paneling. I think it's a major fire hazard but a little bit will look cool.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/22/2004 6:39:34 PM ET by davidmeiland

3. 
   rasconc | Jan 22, 2004 07:53pm | #6

   Jan issue of Remodeling Mag has great tip on doing beaded panel ceiling.  Ways to make it look a lot better than usung just lattice to cover up seams.  Plybead panelling is about $15 at the big boxes and there are some is good looking panelling available for under $25/sheet.  I have used 1x6 beaded white pine prestained with whitewash (Cabot waterbased interior pastel stain base) with great results.  The thin stuff (packaged) they sell is usually a waste as it seems that only about half is usable if you are at all particular.

   http://www.remodeling.hw.net/pages/remodelingonline/Story.nsp?story_id=1000032651&ID=newsreal&scategory=Computers&type=break

4. 
   NickNukeEm | Jan 22, 2004 10:00pm | #7

   I put up MDF beadboard wainscot in a bathroom last year; that's what the HO wanted.  I used adhesive on the field and brad nailed it in the tongue to blocking I had inserted in the wall prior to rocking it over. 

   A couple of observations:  The brads will show.  Get them too close to the tongue and you will not be able to insert the next piece.  The thin boards have no real rigidity.  I rolled them out after putting on the adhesive, but there were still gaps where the stuff had bowed off the wall.  The seams also stood out (ie, pretty obvious,) even after applying and nailing through the chair rail.

   The stuff is heavy, as was mentioned, and applying it on the ceiling also brings gravity into play, making sags and droops possible.  (Amber waves of MDF, and all that.)  If you're set on doing it, ensure your joists/nailers are no farther than 16" OC, and you will have to nail it up and often.

   Now, on the flip side, right after doing that job, I did a kitchen where the HO specd beadboard to enclose an island (ductwork, piping etc. necessitated it.)  She at first wanted something cheap, like the plywood stuff.  I thought it would look like what it was; a cheap imitation.  So I talked her into using the 1/4" pine beadboard.  She left it a natural finish, and it turned out nice.  And it looks a lot better than either the MDF or plywood.  And the cost difference was maybe 20 bucks. 

   Just another option to consider.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!
5. 
   Mongo | Jan 23, 2004 09:00pm | #8

   First, I'd pro-MDF. I've used a lot of it, and have about 30 sheets waiting to be made into dust. That said...

   I wouldn't advise using regular MDF on a bath ceiling where it's be exposed to repetitive moisture vapor.

   Now, if you want to do a faux beadboard, you could use MEDEX, which it MDF rated for moisture/vapor exposure. Problem is, is that it's pricey. Still, take the sheet, and either run it through the table saw with a dado blade set on a 45-degree tilt, or run a router with a 'V' bit over. Either way you'll get a faux beadboard type of look.

6. 
   bill_1010 | Jan 24, 2004 02:44am | #9

   if you want a smooth look and are dead set on MDF.  id use MDO its a Med Density paper over a plywood core.  fasteners would still show but it will handle the moisture where MDF WONT handle it.