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metal building or wood

cawfy | Posted in Tools for Home Building on November 6, 2005 09:47am

Hi All,looking for opinions on wood vs metal shop building.
Anyone have a shop made of steel? Any regrets or advice? Who to buy/
stay away from.Time is a value so if building w/metal may have
the vender or someone local erect it.

I want to build a shop 24 x 24 x 8 w/gable roof.It will have 1 overhead door 8 x 8,1 regular door and 2 windows.(Would like skylite but don’t want what I’ve seen so far from vendors.I would like a regular type skylite,is that possible w/steel bldg.s?)

Roof pitch will be 4/12 to match existing garage.If built w/lumber will I be better off w/ trusses or stick built?I’m wondering about use of loft space for msc.etc.

One vender I’ve looked at online says I may be able to use what they call (I think) a floating footing,made of concrete.They have a design program online that you use to size the structure add all openings and w/your zip code they figure out what type of footing you can use.But w/the instructions to call the local bldg. inspector to be sure.
I’m in R.I.

Also,want to insulate,am I better off buying locally or through the vender? It will need interior sheething that the vendor also provides but it and the insulation seems pretty expensive.

I hope I’ve asked all that I needed to as I’m thinking of a few projects at the same time.

Thanks all and please visit my other post about breaking up ledge in a basement. 🙂

george.c.

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Replies

  1. stinger | Nov 07, 2005 02:25am | #1

    If you are going to insulate, you must be planning to heat it so you can use it in the winter.  What are your plans?

    Have you priced out the job as having a thickened-edge slab, wood-framed walls with 2x4 framing on 24" centers, engineered wood truss roof frame, three-tab asphalt shingle roof, 5/8" T111 as your sheathing AND exterior wall finish, kraft-faced R13 insulation in the walls, R30 in the ceiling, drywall ceiling, drywall halfway up the walls, pegboard above that, enough electricals for good lighting and power everywhere you need it, windows and doors, etc., etc.?

    1. cawfy | Nov 07, 2005 05:33am | #7

      Stinger,yes I will be heating it hence the need to button it up as well as po$$ible .I plan on using it most during the winter.Any idea on space saving wood burning stoves?I will have the usual set up as far as equipment is concerned,Tsaw,rad.arm,miter saw, sanding station and compressor.Will also have a 4 x 4 assembly bench that will be on casters.No need at this time for edge or thickness planer or shaper for that matter.Fairly simple shop.Though I could use some advice as to dust control systems,I think I seen one in jlc that used a reg shop vac and was hooked up to 3 machines via pvc.Bench along 1 side for rad.arm and along a gable wall for vice and misc.
      Definitely need the roll up door.(anyone have experience w/the overheads that roll up onto themselves rather than the tracked ones?do you like em'?)I want a steel walk out door w/a 1/2 window and I happen to have 4 windows from a job screwup(my bad)that I would like to use as best I could w/out taking up too much wall space.As far as layout for walls I didn't even consider 2 x 4 w/24" spacing.I contacted my local yard fri. for a rough take off for framing, sheathing and truss',and shingles.Have not priced sheetrock or pegboard.I have an idea I'm going to need a 4' deep footing w/4' high
      foundation wall along w/ my slab.(anyone wish they had another material,such as wood or something else over the slab to make it easy on the feet?)I don't have a price as yet for the electrical.I was planning on upgrading my current house service from 100 amps to 200.My garage already has a sub panel(60 amp I think) and I plan to hook up the shop from there.I do want plenty of light hence the extra windows (if room allows) and the door that rolls up on itself (not blocking ceiling) and plenty of outlets.Has anyone ever laid out pvc in the slab before finishing to rout and install floor outlets where they *may* be needed?Thanks for your reply and help. george c.

  2. User avater
    JourneymanCarpenterT | Nov 07, 2005 03:36am | #2

         I don't have a shop at present, but if I did, I think I would prefer metal.  The reason is metal doesn't carry sound vibrations the way wood does.  That's a especially a plus when neighbors don't live too far away.

         I frequently use steel studs in commercial construction.  I don't see any reason why you couldn't use a regular skylight if it's framed in right.  Metal studs bend easier than wood studs, but depending on the gauge and design, they could produce an even stronger opening.

        Stick framing the would definitely provide you with more options.  Not only for storage, but for maneuvering materials over 8'.  If you do go with trusses, I'd be sure to consider the alignment of truss bays with doors.

    1. brownbagg | Nov 07, 2005 03:54am | #3

      the best shop here is the chopper dude shop

    2. cawfy | Nov 07, 2005 05:45am | #8

      Hi Journeyman,thanks for the reply.Thats a good point about having more maneuvering room w/the stick built rafters.Also would probably be quicker if there is too long a lead time for the truss'.What are your plans and ideas?If you have the time. thanks,
      george c.

  3. dustinf | Nov 07, 2005 04:03am | #4

    Wood. 

    There is some sort of formula that calculates the cost ratio between wood, and steel.  There is a certain size that steel becomes cost prohibitive.  24 x 24 would be way under. 

    A friend of mine owns a pole building franchise, but I don't remember the formula.  Next time I see him I'll ask.

    1. brownbagg | Nov 07, 2005 04:42am | #5

      this is my 24x30, and its not big enough

      1. seeyou | Nov 07, 2005 04:50am | #6

        Is that your emergency generator at the edge of the concrete by the firewood?Birth, school, work, death.....................

        http://grantlogan.net/

      2. cawfy | Nov 07, 2005 06:22am | #9

        Hi Brownbagg,thanks for the reply.You've run out of room,so shall I but I have restrictions in area uh.. and $$.What is it you do there? thanks,
        george c.

        1. brownbagg | Nov 07, 2005 07:16am | #10

          I use it mainly for metal fabication. I rebuild 4wd's.

          1. cawfy | Nov 07, 2005 07:36am | #11

            Brownbagg,you have a hoist set up in there for heavy lifting? Is that
            plywood over a slab? Or is it just a regular floor deck no slab at all? thanks, george c.

    2. cawfy | Nov 09, 2005 05:15am | #19

      Dustin thanks for the reply.So far it looks like a stick built bldg. will be the cheapest way to go because I won't need to sub out any part of the bldg. besides the footings and slab.Do you happen to know of any pole barn on line sites for learning the basics of that type of building? thanks, george c.

  4. TomT226 | Nov 07, 2005 02:46pm | #12

    About 15 years ago, my son and I built our 24X30 shop.  Went with a pole structure (6X6) with 10' walls, 14' at the ridge.  2X6 walls with 6" batts. Finisned the walls with OSB, and just chicken-wired the ceiling.  6-8' double flourescent fixtures.  2-8' garage doors.  Later we poured a 16X20 carport slab with a cover supported by 3" CR tube, and a 8" "I" welded to them. One door and one window, with a double swing out opening in the back to allow for 12' stock to be run through the miter saw.

    Leveled and layed out the corners, drilled the 12 holes, poured the footers, erected and braced the poles, installed the ridge and 2 headers.  Then we formed up the slab dug the footers, leveled it up with feed-bags full of sand, tied the steel, and poured the slab.

    The OSB walls make it perfect for hanging jigs and fixtures.  The 10' walls provide improved cooling.  A loft was bulilt over 1/2 the ceiling for material storage.  Two gable end fans provide more cooling.

    Ended up being much cheaper than a "kit" building.  Used Metal Mart metal products to cover and finish.

    P. T Barnum said "there's a sucker born every minute."

    Politicians replace "sucker" with "voter."

    NOTA.org

     

    1. cawfy | Nov 09, 2005 02:37am | #15

      Tom thanks for your reply and sharing your experience w/the pole barn.I will certainly think about that.Are there any online sites that describe the basics to pole barn building? It seems from some of the pricing I've received so far that stick building is cheaper than metal kit sets by about 2-3 K.The kit building prices did not include building it.I have no experience w/working w/metal buildings.But I can build the garage myself.
      thanks, george c.

      1. brownbagg | Nov 09, 2005 03:27am | #16

        acemetalbuilding.com this is my building. I got about 9k in mine.

  5. User avater
    PearceServices | Nov 07, 2005 03:06pm | #13

    I would source my own insulation locally, One less person marking it up.

    I prefer wood over steel for the look and for the lead time. but if I bought a steel building, I would try to buy from a company that is located within a snow zone typical to yours. You most likely need a 30psf snow load rating. I would bump that up to the next capacity offered.  Some southern manufacturers have had trouble in the northeast with snow loads and Ice damming.

    As far as the overhead door, you may need a higher end wall than 8' to accommodate a 8' high overhead door, especially if you build with trusses.

    I have a local (Southeastern Mass) subcontractor that you can use to erect your steel building. If you need his info let me know

    1. User avater
      johnnyd | Nov 07, 2005 07:47pm | #14

      FWIW...combo shop/garage, Morton Buildings $17K for the shell with doors 3 years ago:

      Another $5K or so for the slab and apron with PEX

      A few more $K for finishing touches

      Edited 11/7/2005 11:53 am ET by johnnyd

      1. cawfy | Nov 09, 2005 04:36am | #18

        Johnny D.,thanks for the reply and the pics.It looks like a good job.Did you have it built or did you do it yourself? What size is the shop/garage combo? thanks,
        george c.

        1. User avater
          johnnyd | Nov 09, 2005 04:43pm | #20

          It is a Morton pole building, that was framed up and dried-in in about 2 days.  I wired it,  put in the windows, insulation, and partitioned and finished a guest bed/bath on one side.  It's 30X40.

    2. cawfy | Nov 09, 2005 04:26am | #17

      Pearce,I see a difference in insulation price from the kit compared to me getting it and it's about 400.00. The kit provider price being higher.Of course it's specially made to fit the panels but not worth it to me.I talked to a local company that erects metal bldg.s today and he said the roof pitch would be a 1/12.This company doesn't manufacture the bldg.s just can get then build them.He may have been mistaken,but that's a little too shallow a pitch not only because structurally it doesn't seem like it could work for snow loads but it would not match the pitch of my garage which is about a 4/12.Thanks for the reply and the tip for the sub that you know. george c.

  6. michael2023 | May 10, 2023 06:31am | #21

    Dustin thanks for the reply.So far it looks like a stick built bldg. will be the cheapest way to go because I won't need to sub out any part of the bldg. besides the footings and slab.Do you happen to know of any pole barn on line sites for learning the basics of that type of building? thanks, george c.

  7. User avater
    ct_yankee | May 10, 2023 08:34pm | #22

    You might want to consider a Frost Protected Slab foundation if there is a concrete contractor capable of building it in your area.
    See the attached.

    File format
  8. User avater
    rdkhomeconstruction | May 23, 2023 06:11pm | #23

    A metal frame is weather-proof, moisture and fire-resistant, stronger than wood, and easy to install. In contrast, a wooden frame is prone to moisture, pest, fire, mold, and more.

    1. User avater
      ct_yankee | May 23, 2023 06:23pm | #24

      rdkhomeconstruction: You are correct regarding the properties you mention. However, one of the drawbacks with a metal building is that they are designed to meet the code required loading with little or no reserve capacity. Increase the loading on the main frames and they'll exceed their design capacity. Let rust have its way and you'll also wind up exceeding the design capacity. They are not well-suited to habitable spaces unless careful consideration is given to air flow, vapor flow and thermal characteristics of the insulation used. All structure types have their limitations. One has to chose wisely and consider initial, as well as potential future, use.

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