metal countertop edging/dividers

Hello to all. We have a 1938 home with original slant back porcelain sink, 5 ft wide. there are countertops on each side with metal banding edging that overlaps the top about 1/4 inch & stands proud of the top & catch crumbs, etc metal dividers between the countertops & sink stand proud as well & catch crumbs, i would like to replace the counter tops but keep the metal look but but do away with catching the crumbs, any ideas?? I may need to provide pictures for details.
Replies
jim
Below from a quick search. There are still metals available and you'll see some when you enter a "retro" diner. I have not direct link but keep hunting, they could still be had. Any countertop manufacturers with an old guy/girl in the place?
http://retrorenovation.com/2008/05/06/stainless-steel-edging-for-your-laminate-countertop/
http://retrorenovation.com/2011/02/01/3-places-to-buy-metal-edging-for-kitchen-countertops/
http://www.newyorkmetal.com/?gclid=CMG59d2bkLYCFah9OgodrRsA4w
I recall a similar question being asked here about a year ago, looking for edging for an old kitchen table, IIRC. Maybe you can find that.
It's gonna cost you
I doubt that any off the shelf edging you can buy will satisfy your no-bread-crumb criteria. However even without seeing your situation, I'm positive that a really good/creative custom fabricator can produce a solution for you. I'd start looking at countertop makers in your area as well as custom sheet metal shops. You are going to need someone who can integrate stainless steel with your chosen countertop material. This individual needs to either be able to weld stainless or at least have an understanding of how metals are fabricated. People like this do exist. To achieve the look that I think you want, it will be expensive.
It is out there.
I think I have a few links on another computer to vendors.
I'll look and let you know.
New York Metals
http://www.newyorkmetal.com/default.aspx
Either the Face Nosing or Tee could work.
Be careful which contertop you use
If you use Formica, Wilsonart, or similar phenolic based sheeting you can use the tee molding to get a good edge, because it bonds to the wood conutertop subtrate and has a similar expansion/contraction ratio with heat as the wood so there won't be a gap that is opening and closing on you. All you would need to do is trim the phenolic tight to the edge, and then use a router with a slot cutter to cut a kerf to accept the tee.
The original counter surfaces were probably linoleoum, which doesn't have the same expansion/contraction relationship as the substrate. Which is what caused them to have the crumb catcher edge originally so it could bridge and seal the gap as it opened and closed.