Replies

1. 
   Gabe | Mar 31, 2002 03:51am | #1

   Bill,

   8 ft. span ain't bad to deal with. Use 6" heavy gauge steel studs @ 16" centers. Run stiffeners at every 4 ft. centers. 1/2" drywall for a finished ceiling, fill with accoustic fg and cover with another layer of 1/2 drywall.

   Gabe

1. 
   BillK68 | Mar 31, 2002 04:14am | #2

   Gabe,

   As usual, I was probably trying to make it too complicated. I did not think about putting stiffeners in, that should solve the problem.

   Thank you,

   Bill

2. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 31, 2002 03:12pm | #3

   Gabe is right, but I would use 1/2 or 5/8 plywood on the top and get the heavey duty 6 inch studs to use as your joist. Every one of these things I have built ends up wit all kind of stuff stored on top of it. You may as well plan for it. Eventually even that will get over loaded, but at least you made a good faith effort.

   Dave

1. 
   BillK68 | Mar 31, 2002 04:13pm | #4

   Dave,

   You are probably correct even though I plan to avoid that :)

2. 
   Gabe | Mar 31, 2002 06:43pm | #5

   Dave,

   When I suggested drywall on both sides I was thinking about sound attenuation as opposed to loading. You can always add a layer of 3/8 ply over the drywall if you want to load. The spacing is 16 inches and you wouldn't need any more.

   The noise inside a machine shop can be a pain when you're trying to work on estimates or such.

   Gabe

1. 
   DaveMason2 | Mar 31, 2002 08:59pm | #6

   I just finished a boilerroom in a shop that is the same size and used the same materials. I used the 18ga 2x6 studs on 16" centers w/ blocking right down the center. 5/8 sheetrock inside and outside. Then I wrapped the bottom 4' of the outside with 1/2" OSB and decked the roof with the same. With the 5/8"s and the 1/2" on there it didn't even deflect when I tested it at 200# per square foot, which was me jumping up and down on it.

   Dave

1. 
   Gabe | Mar 31, 2002 09:47pm | #7

   Dave,

   You're right about it holding up. I've used the same testing procedure myself. 225# size 12s.

   Metal studs, especially the HD, will hold a lot as long as you prevent them from twisting or torquing.

   Work safe,

   Gabe

1. 
   sjmerrette | Apr 01, 2002 05:01am | #8

   I have never built something with metal studs yet. I have run trim in rooms that were built with it though but that is a whole different nightmare. when you talk about stiffeners what exactly are you referring too? are there metal devices to be installed in between the studs or just peices of metal stud cut to fit? or are you using wood blocking? I ask because I am sure that I will eventually be faced with a job where I will need to build with these things and would like to know. I ask here (on this forum) because around here (where I live and work) people think I know what I'm doing and I'd hate to ruin that illusion.Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

2. 
   calvin | Apr 01, 2002 05:11am | #9

   Steve,  the stiffener I'm aware of is a pc of steel (u-shaped) bar that snaps into the squared bottom of the holes  in the mtl stds.  Always cut the studs from the same end is something simple to remember.  Oh, and don't try to pull anything over on your neighbors.   

    

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    

    

3. 
   sjmerrette | Apr 01, 2002 05:36am | #10

   Nah the neighbors know my history. funny thing is they still hire me! haven't had any bad luck with that, did a few jobs for a couple of different neighbors and now they keep calling me back for more.  I must be doing something right.Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

4. 
   DaveMason2 | Apr 01, 2002 08:16pm | #11

   Steve, What I used was the track for blocking . Which is the top and bottom plate for the metal studs.I notched one side of the block so I could screw the top and bottom of the joist and bent the otherside so that I could screw into the side of the joist.

   Metal studs have a little learning curve to them but once you get the hang of it you can really fly with them. They seem kinda flimsy at first but once you get them tied together and sheetrocked they are solid.

   Hope this helps, Dave

5. 
   sjmerrette | Apr 01, 2002 09:38pm | #12

   It does, thanks Dave.Steve

   S.J.MERRETTE Carpentry & Construction • Robesonia, PA

   Nothing is impossible...It just hasn't been done yet.

6. 
   JeffBuck | Apr 02, 2002 03:57am | #13

   Steve....knowing the kinda work you're doing....a great place to start with steel is kitchen bulkheads. Nothing beats building the whole thing on the floor...and lifting a 12' section up into place by your self!

   I started building whole 4 sided boxes.....but now just build an "L" with some diagonal bracing. Just screw the top to the ceiling and the leg to the wall.  Basemants are also a great place for them.......can use the thin gauge that's everywhere for the non structural stuff. Just plan ahead.......3/4 ply for nailers......or use a PT bottom plate in basements....for taller base you can in fill with 2x.

   I prefer to still use standard 2x for door trimmer and kings......same with window openings I'll have to extension jamb out.

   We use to use 3/8 drywall on wood bulkheads...but they telegraph the screw heads thru...and look wavy...so 1/2" in the min.

   Helps that my Dad had a ton of rental rehabs we could learn all this on! The landlord just wanted them habitable.......they were our testing labs! Same place I first dish soaped mud! Oh yeah...standard mortar works better at sealing in premade glass block windows.....just the gray doesn't match the block mortar! Jeff   *  Jeff J. Buck/ Buck Construction/ Pittsburgh, PA  *    

   2nd Generation Buck Const, 3rd generation Craftsman