I am going to build a 10’x10′ shed for mowers etc on a slab floor and have a bunch of 2×4 metal studs and track from other jobs left over and wanted to get opinions on framing a shed with them. I know I am not saving much cash by not purchasing wood studs, but would like to use them up instead of storing till who knows when. I will use a double top plate (wood). Siding will be T-111 (I know, but it’s only a mower shed) or equivalent, no covering on the inside.
I am not sold on using these, more curiosity than anything. Thanks for any light you can “shed” on this situation, bad pun intended.
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Seen a few steel frame buildings. Seem every bit as strong and durable as anything built with wood. Have to say they seemed a bit straighter and squarer.
As far as an out building I would watch using lightly galvanized steel around lawn chemicals. Fertilizers, pool chemicals and some common compounds can corrode steel at shocking rates.
Good point, now that you mention it I have seen fertilizer do some nasty things to metal. I will have to watch that if I go this route.
What gauge metal?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Not sure, but I could figure it out if it were deemed critical. They were salvage from a demo job, I had extra labor so I had them pull screws and save some. It's a sickness.
It's critical in that 25 ga aren't structural. 20 ga, you'd probably be able to get away with.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Ok, good point. I'll have to measure their thickness and get back to you. Another concern I have is that the bottom track wouldn't resist uplift as well as dim lumber might, any thoughts on that?
If you can cut them with snips easily, 25 ga, if not, might be 20 ga. The light ga. as joe mentions would probably require using waferhead screws and a clutched drill, so you wouldn't strip them out (this with plywood). Even with the 20 ga, you won't countersink a screw into plywood. You'd have to drill a countersink (in just the ply) for a flathead screw to flush up. With drywall, you want to use a drywall screwgun, one that has a depth adjustment. Properly set, the screw will countersink to the proper depth in drywall.
It really might be more trouble than its worth to use steel. Rafter fastening, tho hurricane clips could be made to work. The studs should really be set in track. You screw that down to the deck, screw the track to the studs, as good as a connection as wood. If you can overlap the ply to the deck, certainly won't blow away. If you know wood, stick to wood. Save the steel out behind the barn for a soffit of basement job.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
You guys talked me into it. I'll hang onto it and go conventional, I doubt these studs are 20ga. It does sound like more trouble than it's worth. Thanks for all the replys.
I think you will regret using these studs halfway through the construction. I've worked with metal studs only a few times. Maybe it was me but, I had a tough time getting the screw heads sunk before the threads stripped out of the metal studs. And I was attaching sheetrock. You might try screwing some scrap or plywood to a stud as an experiment to see if it's possible without predrilling every hole.