mineral oil removal/recoating on b. bloc
clarkster75
| Posted in General Discussion on
I coated a wood kitchen butcher block and wine rack with mineral oil some time ago and now it is starting to collect dirt and scuff marks with no real easy way to clean them off. Is there another coating to apply that would/could blend in with the mineral oil that is more resistant to dirt/soil?
If I have to strip it down to clean wood, and reapply a new coating, what would be best for that-both the stripping and the new coating? thx.
Replies
You can probably find a lot of opinions on this. To begin with, mineral oil finish on BB tops should be renewed every couple of months anyways. So if it has beeen a while, you are shirking your duties. Might just need a new rubdown.
What I would probably do is use turpentine and a rag backed by elbow grease to clean the scuffs and dirt. If that didn't make me happy, I would sand the surface.
Then, for a finish better than the mineral oil, I would get Behlens Salad Bowl Finish to rub a few coats on. It is a rubbing oil that will build some sheen and surface film.
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Scrape the entire surface with a good sharp cabinet scraper. Then clean it off with a rag and soapy water, or a solvent.
I wouldn't use the turpentine because this is a butcher block. One that apparently gets used.
If you need a solvent use denatured alcohol. Or common rubbing alcohol.
When it is time to reapply the finish, mix mineral oil and beeswax. Half and half. (Soften the beeswax, of course.) Once it sets back up to a pasty consistancy, rub several coats into the surface.
This gives a better finish. More protective. Smells like honey. And lasts longer.
Good things.
Do it again, every 6 months. It doesn't take long after the first time.
The person you offend today, may have been your best friend tomorrow
Just wash it good with soap and water, using a rough type spong (something like a dobie pad) to clean it up. Do not use turp unless you want it to be only decorative, or you hate the people who you feed.
Then recoat with mineral oil or salad bowl oil. Any type of oil that won't turn rancid and is okay for human consumption. If you wouldn't put it in your mouth, don't put it on your butcher block.
SHG
shaggy...I know why you opened this thread about mineral oil.
I think I have about three bottles left for future use.
Be constipated...lol....or for soapstone..
a...The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,
I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
I didn't open this. I just threw in my 2 cents. You're learning, bro. You'll never be constipated again. Can't say that about bees wax.
<<<<Can't say that about bees wax.>>>
Well my man David Doud sent me a box of bee's wax from his apple farm for my Piffinscrews....I actually use it almost every day.
I ain't shovelin' nuttin' today..I'll just drive the Jeep up and down the driveway a buncha times..waiting for it to melt....I have enough to do...just thought I'd throw that in.
Be white.... hmmmm....that didnt sound right...or black if you live in The Station...lol
a...The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,
I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
today is a gator opportunity. I don't plan to waste it.
Luka's got it right. You can use paraffin wax instead of beeswax. The wax bridges the gaps and small cracks in the wood so the moisture and bacteria don't go there. Let the oil/wax mixture harden on the block overnight, then scrape it off and buff it out.
Billy