Replies

1. 
   joe14 | Mar 11, 2004 03:40am | #1

   Sorry guys attachment didn't show up.

1. 
   calvin | Mar 11, 2004 03:50am | #3

   You need to make a jig to clamp to the table of your mitre box that will kick the peice out at say 30 degrees (whatever you deem safe to allow you to cut at the req. angle) with the fence.  Or, you bisect the angle, find the short and long points and cut by hand.  Depending on the moulding, that might work for you.  Somebody with more brains than me will explain the angles for the block and what to set your saw to.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

2. 
   peteduffy | Mar 11, 2004 03:52am | #4

   Cut a piece of plywood (9x9 or whatever suitable size) with 2 sides perfectly square.  Clamp or otherwise fasten one edge along the fence of your chopsaw, and use the side that is square to that as your new fence (making it parallel to the blade for a regular 90 cut).  It will be offset from the blade some distance, depending on your arrangement.  Then butt your workpiece up against this new fence, which is in effect 90 degrees from the regular fence. 

   Good luck, and keep your fingers away from the blade, and make sure your workpiece is secure.Pete Duffy, Handyman

1. 
   joe14 | Mar 11, 2004 04:06am | #5

   I understand making a jig to give me a new fence at 90 degrees. But then what would I set my miter angle at for a 66.5 degree angle with the jig in place? Would I subtract 66.5 from 90 giving me a 23.5 miter angle?

   JR

1. 
   Sphere | Mar 11, 2004 04:13am | #6

   scribe a line and eyeball it..it works much easier than tryin for a half degree..back bevel and swipe it witha block plane.

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   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

2. 
   peteduffy | Mar 11, 2004 04:16am | #7

   Yep, sounds about right.  Either add or subtract, or do one or the other and divide by 2.  Depends on your saw's scale and the circumstance. 

   Best way would be to get a sliding bevel gauge for about 5-6 bucks.  No measuring of angles.  Just take the angle you need from the wall, transfer that to your saw/fence setup, and always make a test cut in scrap.  It works in regular situations too.  Why cut a 45 miter when NO wall is 90°?

   You might have to remember how to bisect an angle from HS geometry (it's easy, but I don't know whay I do remember it!) with compass and straight edge.

   Hope this is helpful.Pete Duffy, Handyman

1. 
   crosscutter1 | Mar 11, 2004 04:59am | #8

   take a piece of the trim ( WIDTH ) you want to use . forget the math for now !! draw a vertical line as well as the angle of the stairs.where these 2 points meet  lay the piece of trim and mark these 2 points on the trim . go to the miter saw and fool with them  ( trial & error )once you get either the left or right side to work out note the angle on the saw and go to town .if i knew how you did that attchment i would be able to draw it for you .the angle will be more then you CAN GET ON A MITER SAW !! YOU WILL HAVE TO SHIM THE STOCK AWAY FROM THE MITER SAW FENCE be carefull make sure you have your hands away from the blade & the fence is well made

2. 
   davidmeiland | Mar 11, 2004 03:43am | #2

   Sounds like you're trying to cut miters that are sharper (more acute) than your saw will allow. You can lay them out on the stock with a bevel gauge and pencil, cut with a handsaw, and then clean up with a sharp block plane. Or, make a sliding jig for the tablesaw to cut them, as long as they're relatively short pieces. Or, make yourself a handsaw jig like an old-fashioned wooden miter box (not easy to make these exact).

   I've done paneling going up three flights of stairs. I made a jig for the table saw with right hand and left hand stops to cut the pairs of panel moldings. After a while they start coming out just right.

3. 
   Homewright | Mar 11, 2004 08:18am | #9

   Here's a trick you might try.  Take a sheet of typing paper and align one long edge to one line of your proposed box.  Make sure to leave the intersection of the angle roughly midpoint along the side of the paper.  Next, fold the paper to the angle itself.  Once you've creased the paper to fit the proposed angle, fold it exactly in half from the point you made with the first fold.  Use this as a guide to set up whatever jig or saw cut you need to make for the miter to work.  By the way, after the first fold, if part of the paper overlaps the edge, simply fold the excess under to keep it out of your way when you do the second fold.  This works on pretty much any bastard angle you'll encounter in finish work.  A variation on the process even works for outside corner angles...

4. 
   PaulParadis | Mar 12, 2004 03:37am | #10

   Joe,

   I have trouble explaining things like this but...

   The jig Pete suggested is good, I don't ever use a 90 degree jig though - it's to dangerous.  When cutting those peices the blade will grab hold of the trim and suck it in.

   I think the angle you want is 66 so make a jig at 21, then set your saw blade to 45 - this will give you the 66.  Keep in mind the blade will still want to grab hold of the molding.  I firmly place my hand so it will not be pulled to the blade and purposely hold the molding strip this less force than normal.  If you are holding tight to the molding and the blade takes it in your hand will go with it.

   When I am working with stairs the numbers always compliment each other and work off of 90 or 180.  When applying cove on stairs if the bottom (perpendicular to the floor) miter is 24 the top (paralel to the floor) will be 21 (two 24 & two 21 = 90).

   When working on boxes like you have 180 works.  If one miter is 24 the other will be 66 (two 24 & two 66 = 180).

   I am have not taken the time to exactly figure out the formula but if you keep in mind the idea it will work with a little adjustment.

   We become by effort primarily what we end up becoming

    - Zig Ziglar

1. 
   joe14 | Mar 12, 2004 04:28am | #11

   Thanks all for your input, much appreciated and has help me to complete the task at hand.

   JR