Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 17, 2000 04:10am | #1

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   Rick, presuming your saw is well-calibrated, and the crown had a standard 52-degree spring, were those outside corners actually at 90 degrees? If the inside corner copes worked with the saw settings, I'll bet the actual wall angles at the outside corners are off a bit from 90 degrees.

   Ref:

   Good luck, Steve

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 18, 2000 08:01am | #2

   *One word: trigonometry.

2. 
   Gregg_Koke | Jun 18, 2000 01:19pm | #3

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   Rick, I might be mistaken, but the angle that cabinet crown heels are cut is different than the crown moulding for the walls.

1. 
   Joe_Stepien | Jun 21, 2000 07:00pm | #4

   *Rick,I'm with Steve on the corners other than 90 degrees OR the crown moulding is not of the standard angles used for established miter stops. I had a similar problem with a tall custom crown molding that had a 30 degree angle. All literature I could obtain was for 52/38 or 45/45, so I figured out the required bevel and miter angles with the molding cut flat. It took some time to figure out (yes, I am patting myself on the back for having figured it out) and a lot of visualization (the miter was easy to figure but the bevel was a bitch) but I luckily saved the calculations.) Anyway, if the corners aren't 90 then this calculation would serve you even better as it eliminates the cut and retry method once you're certain of the measured angle. I'd be glad to snail mail them to you. Just let me know your address.JS

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 2000 08:33am | #5

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   Maybe the crown is upside down? That is, at a 38 degree instead of a 52 degree spring angle. Then you would have to swap suggested miter and bevel angles.

   Happened to me once.

4. 
   bob_craig | Jun 22, 2000 11:40pm | #6

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   I am installing 3 5/8 crown molding, all in side corners in a room 11x12 I have a power miter saw (not compound). At what angle do I cut? Do I place the molding right side up or down? this is my first try with this type of molding, be gentle thanks bob

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 2000 04:16am | #7

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   Bob, you're gonna want to test with some scrap to get the hang of things... cutting the miters, coping, etc.

   Since you don't have the compound feature, you're gonna want to cut the crown upside down and at a 45-degree angle as the crown sets on your saw much like it would set against the ceiling (table) and wall (fence). A problem you may face (depending upon your chop saw model)is that your fence may not be high enough to support the crown, which MUST be sprung to the fence (on a compound saw, you'd lay the crown flat on its back). You may have to build an auxiliary fence that's tall enough to support the 3-5/8" crown.

   Measuring lengths for coped ends and scarf joints can be a bit tricky, and the way things fit together can get twisted around in your head. A good technique for a beginner is to use the trial pieces you cut as a guide for fitting and matching.

   You'll want a helper. If it's your spouse, get some form of pre-crown agreement drawn up by an attorney.

   Good luck, Steve

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 24, 2000 04:40pm | #8

   *... Or get (or make) crown stops for your saw. The ones for my 12" DeWalt work suprising well.Jeff

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 28, 2000 05:41am | #9

   *Here's the formula for sawblade angles for non-standard crown:

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 01, 2000 06:14am | #10

   *I've found that most cabinet crown moulding is notmilled at the standard angle. I've always ended upcutting it upside down and backwards on the angle it will go on the cabinet as opposed to using the settings on the saw for laying it flat. Before I putup any crown moulding, I hold a piece of the crownup to the inside of a framing square so that thesurfaces that hit the wall and ceiling are flat against the square. If the top edge (ceiling) measures less than the bottom edge (wall) it is probably standard crown and the mitre saw settingswill probably work. Most cabinet crown I've come across, these measurements are equal.Mike

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 03, 2000 12:46pm | #11

   *I'm with Mike Merisko on this one. I never depend on any miter stopss for crown on my saw. Even if I can do one cut the tried and true way with the crown upside down on my saw,(top of crown on table, bottom on fence) then I can take angle measurements right off that with my sliding bevel set and do the compound mitering from there. I find that most crown is different in the angles the mill left you with, even in when it's from the same lot.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 03, 2000 02:34pm | #13

   *I've found that with the crown stops on the DeWalt with the 80-tooth series blade, upside down crown, etc. you can make very fine adjustment cuts as necessary, say from 0 at the bottom to 1/64th off the top with glass smooth results, 44 3/4 degree cuts, etc. Also, a power planer to help scribe the top of crown to 'lumpy' ceilings can sometimes work wonders. All of this for fussy renovation work, not production new work, where cutting flat makes much more sense.Jeff

6. 
   Rick_B. | Jul 03, 2000 02:34pm | #12

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   I recently added some crown molding to existing cabinets in my kitchen. I had my bevel angle and miter angle set at the recommended angles for the compound miter saw. The outside mites did not close unless my miter table was moved to 35 degrees instead of 31.8. How come?? I had t use that setting for every outside miter...